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post #211 of 4621
Nickel and copper are fine together. And even if you get a nickel block your rads are more than likely copper/brass not to mention your fittings. I remember seeing a chart stating that nickel/copper/brass/chrome are close to equal when it comes to that. I wish I could remember the the technical terms for all that! biggrin.gif
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post #212 of 4621
Oh that is a good point. I already have a nickel 670 block. Hmmm

Edit. Cool!
post #213 of 4621
I think you are talking about the electrolytic properties of dissimilar metals and those 4 are fine together. thumb.gif
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post #214 of 4621
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdesmo View Post

I think you are talking about the electrolytic properties of dissimilar metals and those 4 are fine together. thumb.gif

Thanks gdesmo! 12 hrs at work and my brain is fried!
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post #215 of 4621
Spidey, it's called the anodic index. Of those 4 mentioned, chrome will corrode if you have a silver kill coil in the loop. Although chrome isn't as anodic as aluminium.

EK says don't use silver with their nickel plated blocks, but it's less anodic than copper, so that doesn't make sense to me thinking.gif
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post #216 of 4621
Quote:
Originally Posted by bradpowers View Post

So, I appreciate what you've put here, and I suspect that my components (being nothing special, really) should fit fine. I'm more interested in figuring out the hole pattern for the side panel, and the radius of the bend curve of the outside of the case so that I can make a custom CNC milled acrylic panel to fit. I'm trying to do something awesome with your (also awesome) case design, but I don't have the case in front of me, and I don't want to guesstimate on hole locations.

-Brad

Ah I gotcha (went back & reread your earlier post, sorry I missed that). I think for what you're looking to do you'd be best of waiting to get the case and basing dimensions off the actual panel. Or a few ppl have requested an extra sidepanel at extra cost for modding so that's also an option if you're looking to mod above & beyond what I/Dwood are offering. If you want to mod asap, that's what I'd recommend, as I won't be releasing the case model (or pieces thereof).
Quote:
Originally Posted by WiSK View Post

Spidey, it's called the anodic index. Of those 4 mentioned, chrome will corrode if you have a silver kill coil in the loop. Although chrome isn't as anodic as aluminium.

EK says don't use silver with their nickel plated blocks, but it's less anodic than copper, so that doesn't make sense to me thinking.gif

That's the much more educated version of what I was gonna say: "just don't use aluminum". tongue.gif I also avoided a kill coil in my loop because of some reporting ill effects... I used biocide instead (same price as kill coils).
 
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post #217 of 4621
Thanks for the answers everyone! So correct me if im wrong but if I run the following combos it is ok/not ok

CPU - Nickel + GPU - Copper or vice versa (CPU - Copper + GPU - Nickel)
= OK

EK Nickel + Silver Kill Coil
= NOT OK
    
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post #218 of 4621
Just a heads up, the XSPC Raystorm is on sale at PPC's for 49.99 biggrin.gif
post #219 of 4621

Hey guys - just added a radiator compatibility chart to the Artisan thread to help with rad selection: Post #2 cheers.gif

 
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post #220 of 4621
Outdated: see http://www.overclock.net/t/1369708/compact-splash-owners-club/640#post_19823827 for most recent charts.

I updated the measurements for ATX24 connector. This would be the most compact possibility leaving enough space for tubing running underneath. Word to the wise: if you follow this chart, check first using pieces of spare sleeve and with tubes installed.
Outdated chart, values are good but unrefined (Click to show)
How to read chart (Click to show)
This chart represents the PSU and MB connectors. At the top is the connector as if you are looking at the PSU, imagine the connector clip on the top. At the bottom is the connector as if you are looking at the motherboard with the ram nearest you, the connector clip is towards you. So on the PSU side, the top left pin is 24, top right is 13, the second row has pins 12 to 1. On the MB side the pins are reversed: top row is pins 1-12, second row is 13-24.

Now the numbers in the chart. On the PSU-side they show which wires go where. For example, the blue pin has the number 14, so it goes to pin 14 on the motherboard side. You can see this one is also blue. The number shown on the MB side is the length. So e.g. when wiring that 'blue' wire, you first cut 198mm length, attach PSU-side to pin 14 and MB-side to pin 14. Or e.g. for pin 23 PSU-side, you'd see it goes to pin 4 MB-side, which shows 158mm. And so on.

Edited by WiSK - 4/24/13 at 1:32am
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