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post #251 of 4608
Quote:
Originally Posted by spidey81 View Post

If I understand correctly you won't be able to wire up the LED's like you're wanting to. Here's a diagram of the voltages going to the molex plug.

CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), default quality

As you can see the middle two black wires are ground. The yellow 12V and the red 5V. I suppose it would work, but one set of LED's would be less intense than the other. Hope that helps.

Ohh I didnt know that, it is actually really helpful that means technically I can but one is just brighter than the other hmm... Thanks a ton I think I will end up doing this if I cant route the cables clean enough thumb.gif
    
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post #252 of 4608
Quote:
Originally Posted by golfergolfer View Post

Ohh I didnt know that, it is actually really helpful that means technically I can but one is just brighter than the other hmm... Thanks a ton I think I will end up doing this if I cant route the cables clean enough thumb.gif

I just realized that I may have misspoke. After looking at the LED's you linked and a spare set I have from my Raystorm, it appears that they are 5V LED's. I was assuming they were 12V for some reason. So, if you attempt to hook them up as you were suggesting, they will go "poof".



See how the wires go to the side of the red 5V wire.
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post #253 of 4608
Well that sucks I don't want then going poof. I wonder if they actually would if you ran too much voltage through them. See the thing is if I'm not mistaken the psu only had adapters for 2 molex so I don't know how I could power my pump and two leds =( guess I gotta keep looking around
    
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post #254 of 4608
I believe you can just daisy-chain molex cables by using a splitter like this
post #255 of 4608
Quote:
Originally Posted by albear01 View Post

I believe you can just daisy-chain molex cables by using a splitter like this

Yes! thumb.gif
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post #256 of 4608
Quote:
Originally Posted by spidey81 View Post

edit: I'm assuming you're using the GTX680 hydro copper? The block is based on the swiftech komodo full cover block. As such I would assume that it is chrome plated instead of nickel. I thought you had said you were going with the Raystorm, but I could be thinking of someone else. The Raystorm is copper unless you get the chrome edition. Either way, you wouldn't have any nickel in the system. But you might just use pt nuke just to be safe.

Hang on there. Only the outside of the Komodo blocks are plated with chrome, inside they are copper. No chrome touches water, which is good because that would almost certainly become corroded.
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post #257 of 4608
This case looks SICK AF! I'm on the website to place my order but I'm curious about fitting issues with my P8Z77-I Deluxe. It has this lip thing I'm sure you guys know of. If I put in the same WC'ing setup as your original, would it be an issue because of the lip of the motherboard?

Thanx
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post #258 of 4608
Quote:
Originally Posted by WiSK View Post

Hang on there. Only the outside of the Komodo blocks are plated with chrome, inside they are copper. No chrome touches water, which is good because that would almost certainly become corroded.
Quote:
Originally Posted by WiSK View Post

Spidey, it's called the anodic index. Of those 4 mentioned, chrome will corrode if you have a silver kill coil in the loop. Although chrome isn't as anodic as aluminium.

EK says don't use silver with their nickel plated blocks, but it's less anodic than copper, so that doesn't make sense to me thinking.gif

I'm not trying to start an argument here, but I believe that the komodo block is fully chrome plated. proof.gif


The pic is from this review. It's for the 6970 block, but it was linked from the KOMODO-HD79X0 product page.

Also, the chrome edition of the raystorm does have a copper base. However the top is fully plated with chrome. And per your comment earlier, chrome is ok as long as you don't use a silver kill coil in your loop.
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post #259 of 4608
Quote:
Originally Posted by spidey81 View Post


The pic is from this review.

That's not chrome, that's the flash of his camera. Open the picture in some editing software, and turn saturation up, you will see the colour of that metal in bottom left corner and in the middle where the pins are.
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post #260 of 4608
It's the same finish as the vrm block. Like I said, I'm not trying to start an argument. I just want to make sure that we're getting the correct information.

edit: Emailed swiftech directly to see if it is indeed bare copper or plated with chrome. Also, to see what they say about silver kill coils. Not that I don't believe you, I do as I've verified the information regarding dissimilar metals. I just want to get the manufacturers input on the situation.
Edited by spidey81 - 3/25/13 at 8:10am
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