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post #261 of 4608
I'm doubting it myself now. Just can't believe that chrome plating is safe inside water block.

edit:
Searching around for anyone with Komodo block who got corrosion I get no results, in fact now I start to get this thread when I google tongue.gif I always trusted wikipedia before. Chrome is 0.60V, Copper is 0.35V so plating copper with chrome should mean that it will start to corrode with even one little scratch.
Edited by WiSK - 3/25/13 at 9:11am
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post #262 of 4608
With all the problems with corrosion, I just don't understand why peopke keep putting silver, and nickel in their loop. And now chrome?

If I could, I would get copper fittings, but that would be too soft I guess.

Only copper for me, and brass because I have no choice. If I want flashy, I'll just paint my copper blocks.

And why silver when there are other options? I just don't get it.
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post #263 of 4608
I did a little hunting myself to try and get to the bottom of everyone's (including my own) questions in regards to running different metals in a loop. I forgot that martinsliquidlab had a good write-up exploring galvanic corrosion specifically relating to water cooling loops.

From my understanding, running a loop with a silver kill coil can serve dual purposes. First is that it keeps bacteria/algae at bay. Second is it could be a collector for any stray ions as it is more attractive to that sort of thing than say copper or brass. And please correct me if I'm wrong. I'm trying to gain a better understanding of this, and I'm not afraid of being proven incorrect. I believe I may have spoke too soon ( again doh.gif ). Still not sure I completely understand....but getting there.

Also, it appears that for any significant galvanic corrosion to occur you would need to have the two dissimilar metals in direct electrical contact. For example, running a copper block with an aluminum top. So it seems that a chrome plated (or nickel plated) block with a polymer based top would not suffer nor cause corrosion in a loop with any significance. Then to top it off, as long as you do regular maintenance for the loop and keep it active (i.e. on and flowing) you will further reduce possible corrosion.
Edited by spidey81 - 3/25/13 at 10:39am
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post #264 of 4608
The ywo metals do not need to be in 'electrical' contact. They just need to be in physical contact. As you run your loop, your metals wl ionize in the water and make contact that way.

I deal with galvanic corrosion every day at work. Mixing steel and aluminium will cause the aluminium to corrode. But if you just paint either the aluminium or the steel, they are no longer in direct contact and thus protected from corrosion. We usually paint both the steel and the alu to double up on.the protection.

So even if your aluminium rad is at one end of your loop, and your copper block at the other end, corrosion is still likely to occur as they ionize in the coolant.
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post #265 of 4608
Basically, all your metals essensially disolve in water. Maybe at a very slow rate, but they do dissolve over time. That's why a pop in an aluminium can has a metallic taste while a pop in a glass bottle does not.

So in your loop, they dissolve and attack each other.
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post #266 of 4608
It's the other way around with silver, it's the most cathodic, so it's the thing that causes the corrosion in other parts.

And as far as I know it's the flowing which is the vehicle for the ions to move. Where did you see that flow prevents corrosion?
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post #267 of 4608
I'm learning so much in this thread smile.gif
post #268 of 4608
Click the link to martins article. You are correct that the flow will cause the ionizing of the metals it contacts. However if the fluid stagnates the corrosion speeds up significantly. I'm not saying there won't be corrosion. But keeping the flow of fluid in your loop will slow it. As in martins article, the highest danger for corrosion isn't with the blocks in the loop but in the rads themselves where the solder joints are.
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post #269 of 4608
When I started WCing, my first AIO kit was a Thermaltake Symphony. A big copper CPU block, and a big 120.5 rad....the rad was made of aluminium. Many manufacturers were making aluminium rads because that was cheaper than copper. Now you just won't find any aluminium blocks or rads on the market.

I threw out that big aluminium rad a couple months ago.
I never did check the block because it's a one piece thing, doesn't open up.
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post #270 of 4608
Quote:
Originally Posted by spidey81 View Post

Click the link to martins article.

Ah interesting. I think I have read that before but I guess the information about the stagnant water didn't stick smile.gif

I like the idea of a galvanic anode. I'm using a Monsoon "Silver Bullet" in my loop, I wonder if I can convince Geno to make a complimentary Monsoon "Sacrificial Alumi-lamb" tongue.gif
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