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post #3251 of 4608
Yeah i've read those articles as well. If I remember correctly Martin used the term "splitting hairs". wink.gif
    
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post #3252 of 4608
Think several issues are getting confused. The thing that Hefner mentions that was a long-standing 'misconception' in w/c forums was that angled fittings reduce performance, ie cooling of your blocks. The thing that Lutfij mentions is that 90 degree fittings do reduce head pressure. But relatively speaking it's a low amount compared to the pressure drop from modern blocks.

In terms of lifespan, it's better to run a Liang DDC either slowly or with a lot of restriction. It's not too much restriction that overheats it, it's running it too fast. The DDC circuitry overheats at high speed and it can wear out the impeller. You want just enough flow to provide turbulence, and no more.

So I would hazard a guess that Ranma13's pump will outlast mine, since I'm running at 40% in low restriction loop, while he's running at 20% in high restriction loop.
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post #3253 of 4608
Quote:
Originally Posted by WiSK View Post

So I would hazard a guess that Ranma13's pump will outlast mine, since I'm running at 40% in low restriction loop, while he's running at 20% in high restriction loop.
I'm on a 2-year upgrade cycle, so as long as it lasts for 2 years (and it should), I'm golden tongue.gif.

As for slapping on a heatsink, I actually do have the EK heatsink, but the problem is that the mounting holes don't exactly line up with the pump bracket. A few pages back, someone posted an image where they mounted the EK heatsink to the pump bracket, but if you look closely, you can see that the rubber is being squeezed inwards. I didn't like that, as over time the rubber will harden and most likely crack, so I ended up using the existing plastic mount, which does line up properly with the pump bracket. I'll try an unofficial 'finger temperature test' though to see if it's getting too hot for my liking.
post #3254 of 4608
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranma13 View Post

Just as a sneak preview, this is what I've been working on..

@Ranma13, your PC rocks, I am bending over backwards to see every detail!! Fantastic, more pictures please.. thumb.gif
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post #3255 of 4608
Thread Starter 
Hmmm, I suppose I did take a look in the other direction smile.gif Thanks for clearing that up!
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post #3256 of 4608
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lutfij View Post

I've been hit with some news; anyone else seen this?

Pretty the same thing but you can get dimensions off of it;
http://www.coolingtechnique.com/news/62/1411.html

Saw a post over in the watercooling thread about those rads. Really debating about nabbing two 360s to put in the pedestal for my Haf X. Just wish they had those out a few months back as I bought one of the older gloss black ice rads. Nice rad, but the gloss kind of sticks out, o well.
     
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post #3257 of 4608
Thread Starter 
Perhaps you could return it...? smile.gif

Though you do need to account for shipping and stocking of items by various e-tailers. Expect 2~3 months lead time...if sooner thumb.gif if later frown.gif
Edited by Lutfij - 3/24/14 at 9:42pm
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post #3258 of 4608
Guys I need some help...

Again EKWB told me that the sound is normal and is being caused by air bubbles... If this is true, why the hell won't those bubbles go out of my loop? does it take months or something? ARGGG mad.gif
    
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post #3259 of 4608
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hefner View Post

Guys I need some help...

Again EKWB told me that the sound is normal and is being caused by air bubbles... If this is true, why the hell won't those bubbles go out of my loop? does it take months or something? ARGGG mad.gif

I think they just didn't watch the second part of your video, with low PWM setting and obvious ticking noise.

I don't think it's air making that noise. But maybe to convince EK then you have to remove all the air. It shouldn't take long to bleed, under 24 hours. The places where air can collect and cause continuous microbubbles is mainly in the plenums (end bits) of radiators.

1. Put pump on full PWM. Tilt your rig on its left side as far as possible. If you hear rushing air at any angle, then keep the rig in that orientation for 5 minutes.
2. Do same tilting rig to the right, on its front, then on its back. Again, if you hear rushing air in the pump, then keep that position.
3. Now set pump to lowest for an hour or two.
4. Check for microbubbles in tubing. If so, you need to switch the rig off for a few hours.
5. Before you start it again, tap or flick or squeeze each piece of tubing. Try to dislodge any large bubbles you can see.
5. Run the rig again with pump slow for few hours.
6. If there are still bubbles, start again from #1
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post #3260 of 4608
Quote:
Originally Posted by WiSK View Post

I think they just didn't watch the second part of your video, with low PWM setting and obvious ticking noise.

I don't think it's air making that noise. But maybe to convince EK then you have to remove all the air. It shouldn't take long to bleed, under 24 hours. The places where air can collect and cause continuous microbubbles is mainly in the plenums (end bits) of radiators.
Exactly. I am sure that air isn't causing the noise. I am also sure that vibrations are not cause.

I told EKWB that I've been bleeding air from the system for over 92 hours and that air is very likely not the cause. They replied saying that it is normal that DDC pumps sound like this.

I guess I'll try again even though I am quite hopeless of the pump being quiet. Since my chances of EKWB helping me seem very slim I'll just buy the MCP35X if I can't fix it myself.

How do you suggest I tell EKWB?
    
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