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Liquid electrical tape

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 
So today I bought myself some LET thinking it will be useful for a base coat for insulating my motherboard I'm thinking of doing cracks with vaseline and still using eraser for the CPU socket (if anyone has something to say about it please do !!), but then I went on reading the product's directives and noted the manufacturer rated it for -54 to 204 C. I'm thinking this is only meaning the tape is not guaranteed to be adhesive at this temprature, but do you this this giving me any issues ? precision: Ill be cooling with LN2 so yes the -50 mark is very far away from our -196 liquid drops falling onto it..
post #2 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by mindblowingj View Post

So today I bought myself some LET thinking it will be useful for a base coat for insulating my motherboard I'm thinking of doing cracks with vaseline and still using eraser for the CPU socket (if anyone has something to say about it please do !!), but then I went on reading the product's directives and noted the manufacturer rated it for -54 to 204 C. I'm thinking this is only meaning the tape is not guaranteed to be adhesive at this temprature, but do you this this giving me any issues ? precision: Ill be cooling with LN2 so yes the -50 mark is very far away from our -196 liquid drops falling onto it..

I've run full pot with LET for coating on the board, no cracking while running full pot for hours.
I've been using it more than dragon skin lately. The skin was good when running cpus that bugged at -125, but first time trying full pot with dragon skin, it was all cracked apart after the first bench session.
    
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post #3 of 8
Same here, LET hasn't been an issue for me under LN2. I use Dragonskin all the time for Cascade benching since it seems fine up to about -140, approx. After that Dragonskin will start cracking if there isn't a buffer (I use a gasket of neoprene or Frost King foam) between the pot and the dragonskin. I've full pot benched using dragonskin with a gasket numerous times, without gasket it cracks around the socket. LET or eraser have both been fine.
    
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post #4 of 8
Thread Starter 
Wow, in that case I'm quite impressed I was under the impression dragon skin would be superior and test it on my totrure machine (Old P3 I have dozens of cpu's and parts for) well glad to know I won't have to kill it ! Liquid tape it shall be then. Oh and if anyone has a CPU pot or NB pot they selling I'm looking for one cause the trash I made with my relatives drilling machine and an alu block cannot even be named a pot as it is madsmiley.png and I'm too cheap to buy KPC and not patient enough for new marksman...
post #5 of 8
How long do you have to wait after you apply the LET before it's set and ready to go?
post #6 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by quipers View Post

How long do you have to wait after you apply the LET before it's set and ready to go?

You can smell it when it isn't fully dry yet. Some guys use multiple thin quick drying coats, I usually put on a fairly thick coat & leave it drying for a day or so.
    
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post #7 of 8
I put on two thin coats to start things out then put a thick one on right before bed and let it dry overnight and the next morning. So normally 12-16 hours of drying time. The thin layer I give 45 minutes each
Edited by CAxVIPER - 5/1/13 at 6:21pm
post #8 of 8
Thin coats generally dry a bit better for me. Not only do they dry in 10-15 minutes (if placed next to a nice fan), they don't leave big voids from when they contract upon drying.
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For Sale: 6GHz+ 980X
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