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post #11 of 31
When i mean a few degrees C its like 6-8 degrees which is more then just the pump.

Its the speed of the pump in smaller loops don't need to be that high either.
 
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post #12 of 31
Thread Starter 
highendpcgamer

thank you so much mate.... really am greatful!!

Is the g1/4 and 3/8 ID outputs on the pump really matter or is that part of the reason why some have such high pressure?

7/16"ID x 5/8" OD is the tubing i have no and im not sure if i can just get the 3/8ID to work with my tubing or if i should just get a pump that's g1/4..

I might be thinking out of my league its just after searching so much and reading so many different things its hard to put the facts from the opinion and last thing I want to do is buy the wrong pump! ( seems i already bought a kit in the first place and i was wrong for that!)
  
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post #13 of 31
No problem glad to help smile.gif Check my PM I sent you.
 
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post #14 of 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by highendpcgamer View Post

You should rate a pump on head pressure more than flow rate. Your flow rate will be determined by the blocks and ID of you tubing and the size and radiator you choose.

Use the least amount of angle fitting as possible.

Agree
Quote:
Originally Posted by highendpcgamer View Post

I would go for a D5 variable pump (swiftech 655mp) they are the same pump. I think koolance calls them 450's. Just get one that you can control speed.
I have found that running the pump on 5 makes my temps go up a few degrees c do to it running faster through the rad.

Disagree.While the water is, indeed, running through the rad faster and, therefore, will not cool quite as much, it is also running through the block quicker and will not heat up quite as much. Increase in temp is more likely due to increased heat dump from the pump, which is now generating more heat.
Quote:
Originally Posted by highendpcgamer View Post

If your going to cool a CPU and GPU go for the biggest and thickest rad you can put in or outside your case. This will help cool better and better future proof you loop.

Agree, as long as you get the proper fans to deal with the extra thickness.
Quote:
Originally Posted by highendpcgamer View Post

As far as a res, I use res/pump combo helps save space, but I also have a lot of components in my case. A cylinder res (if you can fit a 250mm) with the D5 pump and a pump top would be a bit better for temps.
A bigger volume of water in the res helps temp a great deal.

Think large scale a 50 gallon fish tank using 300w heater to heat the water to 76F in about 2hrs. Where a 10 gallon tank using the same 300w heater to 76F take about 30mins.
Larger volume of water = lower temps due to heat dissipation in the res. Just depends if you want space savings or performance.

This is true, however, at the end of the day, there will be no difference in temps once the water heats up. Indeed, if the water does heat up due to an intensive gaming session or benchmarking, it will also take longer to cool off and return your components to a lower temp. Overall, not really a big deal either way. To my mind, not a reason to go overkill on the res.
Quote:
Originally Posted by highendpcgamer View Post

As far as tubing I recommend 7/16"ID x 5/8"OD why? Fitting and tubing are cheaper then 1/2 x 3/4. Plus it is pretty much the same. 7/16 x 5/8 also bends easier.

Really? A quick look at Performance OCs shows me that 7/16" barbs are not very common, and were almost twice as much as the 1/2". Now, that is just a quick look so I'm not saying you are wrong, just can't endorse your opinion. I do know using 7/16" tubing over 1/2" barbs is fairly common to get a good seal. It will bend easier, but, not as easily as 3/8" ID tubing, which doesn't really restrict flow very much compared to 1/2".
Quote:
Originally Posted by highendpcgamer View Post

As far as your power supply leave it pulling cool air from the bottom of the case and exhausting out the back of the unit. This will keep the PSU going strong during load as keeps your life of the unit from decreasing. Also keeps extra heat out of your case.

Agree.

Just goes to show that there are many different opinions to be considered.
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post #15 of 31
Thread Starter 
Proton, would you say my tubing is ok ?

If I wanted to go with http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=28303 or http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=25773
and using a 240mm rad at the top of my case and 140mm at the bottom of my case as well as cpu+gpu waterblocks would i be safe
  
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post #16 of 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by INCREDIBLEHULK View Post

Proton, would you say my tubing is ok ?

If I wanted to go with http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=28303 or http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=25773
and using a 240mm rad at the top of my case and 140mm at the bottom of my case as well as cpu+gpu waterblocks would i be safe

If you are asking if your 7/16" ID tubing will fit on the barbs on the pumps you linked to, then i would say yes. You will probably have to heat the tubing in hot water to get it n the barb, however, once it is on, it should be nice and tight. Some say clamps are not required if you do this. I would always use a clamp.

The rads should handle the set up you are planning to set up. Maybe a bit to spare. I actually believe that seldom is the axiom "More is better" wrong.

I would probably get the D5 Strong, because, you can always undervolt it and reduce the power. You can't over volt the regular D5 to get more power. Again, More is Better!

These are, of course, my opinions based on reading many threads and reviews. My personal experience is somewhat limited. I have never used the D5 pump or a 140mm size rad.
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post #17 of 31
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt Proton View Post

If you are asking if your 7/16" ID tubing will fit on the barbs on the pumps you linked to, then i would say yes. You will probably have to heat the tubing in hot water to get it n the barb, however, once it is on, it should be nice and tight. Some say clamps are not required if you do this. I would always use a clamp.

The rads should handle the set up you are planning to set up. Maybe a bit to spare. I actually believe that seldom is the axiom "More is better" wrong.

I would probably get the D5 Strong, because, you can always undervolt it and reduce the power. You can't over volt the regular D5 to get more power. Again, More is Better!

These are, of course, my opinions based on reading many threads and reviews. My personal experience is somewhat limited. I have never used the D5 pump or a 140mm size rad.

thanks again, yours is much more than mine mate...

are the pmp-450s and mcp655 not considered D5 pumps? or do they just have controlled speeds
http://www.frozencpu.com/images/awards/pumpchartpdf.pdf
i was going by that and i see the PMP-450s is a real winner in numbers but again numbers on a pdf with no experience or feedback from someone who has it just makes me a guinea pig purchaser frown.gif
  
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post #18 of 31
personally i would, and will, go with this pump:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=29201
it can be run super quiet and super cool. pwm control for the win!
and the res made for it is pretty slick too:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_666&products_id=31134 where you can find it in stock. temporarily out of stock on p-pcs
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post #19 of 31
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pc-illiterate View Post

personally i would, and will, go with this pump:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=29201
it can be run super quiet and super cool. pwm control for the win!
and the res made for it is pretty slick too:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_666&products_id=31134 where you can find it in stock. temporarily out of stock on p-pcs
i like that setup, the MCP35X was one of the first few pumps i looked at
now these guys have me considering the adjustable speed ones, some of their points made sense like running the water slower in some situations and what not

is PWM control the same as the "D5"'s ? do you know is the PMP-450S is considered a D5 pump or is it just PWM controlled like the MCP35x?

I keep getting baited by looking at 19ft pressure of the pmp-450s smile.gif
  
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post #20 of 31
with the pwm control, the motherboard controls the pumps rpm just like it would a heatsink fan. the d5 is a rotary screwdriver insert you twist to lower or raise the rpm of the pump. the 450s is just a plain old d5 strong : http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/03/05/koolance-pmp-450s-d5-strong-pump/
the mcp 35x rpm is pretty much the same as the mcp 350/355 pumps with pwm. most of the guys run them 1500 to less than 3000rpm while its actually capable to spin up to just over 4000rpm

you can google either of the pumps (or the d5/d5 strong) and spent days reading the results. as far as i know, martin is VERY reputable as a reviewer unlike a couple others who took some form of payment for a good review on junk hardware(all speculation to a degree)
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