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Crossover setting large or small?

post #1 of 27
Thread Starter 
With a yamaha reciever and 2.0 speakers rated at 52hz freq response, should i set crossover small or large and 60hz or 80hz? And can i change crossover settings when its set to LARGE at the same time? Because the reciever gives me that option even though there are no SMALL speakers or sub. And i read that giving speakers no bass management or making them full range will exhaust them and that im better off setting them to small.
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post #2 of 27
There's so much confusion here I don't know where to start.

Without going into a long dissertation about what frequency response is and what speaker "roll off" is and how speakers and amplifiers distort sound, the best answer is to just set the settings to whatever sounds the best to you. You won't "exhaust" (?) your speakers, do any harm to then nor any harm to the amplifier in doing so.
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post #3 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by billbartuska View Post

There's so much confusion here I don't know where to start.

Without going into a long dissertation about what frequency response is and what speaker "roll off" is and how speakers and amplifiers distort sound, the best answer is to just set the settings to whatever sounds the best to you. You won't "exhaust" (?) your speakers, do any harm to then nor any harm to the amplifier in doing so.

That is partially true. If you attempt to run 50RMS of 30Hz content through bookshelves or towers port tuned in the 60Hz range (typical), you will bottom out the drivers and damage the spiders. The amp doesn't care.

Below port tuning, there is little damping for the driver, and the suspension won't do enough to protect the driver from damage. Once you exceed Xmech, you're damaging the driver.
 
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post #4 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wattser93 View Post

That is partially true. If you attempt to run 50RMS of 30Hz content through bookshelves or towers port tuned in the 60Hz range (typical), you will bottom out the drivers and damage the spiders. The amp doesn't care.

Below port tuning, there is little damping for the driver, and the suspension won't do enough to protect the driver from damage. Once you exceed Xmech, you're damaging the driver.

+1

I go by the rule of thumb that if your speakers are not full range 20hz-20khz, you should set your speakers to "small" and cross to a subwoofer.

However, I have found that if your bookshelf speakers are of a sealed design that more people can run them as "large" and not have the same sort of damage from bottoming out the drivers....however, this tends to result in more compression loss and you can still burn up the driver this way.
post #5 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by billbartuska View Post

just set the settings to whatever sounds the best to you. .

Everything you say is true, but if the op can't hear clipping, woofer doubling or drivers bottoming out perhaps he needs to blow up a few components to learn. Isn't that the way we all learned?
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post #6 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by billbartuska View Post

Everything you say is true, but if the op can't hear clipping, woofer doubling or drivers bottoming out perhaps he needs to blow up a few components to learn. Isn't that the way we all learned?

If that's your version of sarcasm, it's awful misleading.

OP, don't blow up your equipment. Set the crossover to large to be safe.
 
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post #7 of 27
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wattser93 View Post

If that's your version of sarcasm, it's awful misleading.

OP, don't blow up your equipment. Set the crossover to large to be safe.

dont you mean small? okay i got no subwoofer at the moment, turning it into small will limit it in a way. the speakers themselves the reviews show a bottoming out issue with high SPL and no bass management. what are SPL i dont know. The AVR has a auto-setup thing that set it to large and 60hz crossover (which im not sure is active or not since its at LARGE)
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post #8 of 27
Thread Starter 
okay ive used a not so calibrated audio meter app, and with mp3 music at max 72db, i at times here this rattling coming from somewhere, like distortion vibration. is that bottoming out? or what is it usually? i usually here the same thing from old tv speakers playing loud sounds or simply those crappy speakers that rattle all the time. heres a review of my speaker: http://www.audioholics.com/reviews/speakers/bookshelf/usher-s-520-review-addendum
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post #9 of 27
Obviously you're damaging something if you're hearing sounds that aren't in the recording. And stop with the apps, open your ears, they'll tell you everything you need to know.
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APU what?
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post #10 of 27
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cavi Mike View Post

Obviously you're damaging something if you're hearing sounds that aren't in the recording. And stop with the apps, open your ears, they'll tell you everything you need to know.

the rattle could be from anywhere it makes it hard to tell if its speakers or not. the entertainment unit has lots of loose metal bracket things it could be that. im not opening my ears seems dangerous but seriously my only other option would be SMALL 60hz. was 72db too loud or normal?
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