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[Official] 7870 Tahiti LE (XT) Owners Club

post #1 of 4576
Thread Starter 

7870 Tahiti LE Owners Club

front.jpg

Picture Source

Specs:

Waterblocks + Accessories:

PerformancePCS

 

FrozenCPU

Sapphire 7870 XT Noise Test (rasamaha2000)

Owners:

FORM

Send me a PM if you need to edit your entry.

BIOS & Software Utilities:

Afterburner

Trixx

HWM

GPU-Z

PowerUp Tuner

Radeon Pro

Display Driver Uninstaller 

 

Flashing the BIOS can brick your card so please flash at your own risk.

How to flash your BIOS by KaRLiToS

VBE7 - vBIOS Editor for Radeon HD 7000 series cards

Must Read: Guides, Fixes, & Other Helpful Stuff:

 

How to stop fluctuating clocks using VBE7 by M3TAl (Click to show)
 
If all you want is to stop going from 975 to 925 constantly then in the PowerPlay tab change #6 and #0 to the same clock speed. Read the tutorial in the OP of this club on how to flash a BIOS.
 
Make sure you make a copy of the stock BIOS and since you have a Sapphire card make sure the BIOS switch is on the correct setting. The #2 position is read-only. Put the switch on #1.
Alternative Clock Fluctuation Fixes (Click to show)
  • Set Powerlimit to 8% (or a little bit higher)
  • Flash to another BIOS (.28 / .30 are the preferred choice)
  • Use aftermarket cooling for better temperatures (Red Mod or Aftermarket fans)
  • Last resort: Disable PowerPlay Details Here (Not recommended)
How to view VRMS temps Real-Time by Bluesman (Click to show)

Bluesman

 

Also, there is a way we can view, in real time, the temps of the VRMs using sensors #1 and #2 on the card. This is useful in determining whether our passive cooling solution is working as intended. Here is a url explaining how to do this: http://battlelog.battlefield.com/bf3/forum/threadview/2832654490134405316/

Watercooling Tips and Warnings by Bluesman (Click to show)

Bluesman

 

WATERCOOLING TIPS

So, I conducted a lot of searches on watercooling the 7870 Myst or XT. There are no full waterblocks that I could find. Anyway, Swiftech suggests that universal blocks are better for a number of reasons so I felt the investment was worth it for this card. Since I am using a new 2012 EK design, my hope is that it will last for many cards. So I justified the cost by dividing the investment by 4.

Since I wanted a modern design, I went with the EK - HWBOT. To use any EK block with any Tahiti card you need to use the 7970 copper shim. I was initially fooled because the mount surface is bowed or convex. You get contact but the closed thumbscrews prevent the block from lowering to the gpu completely and surrounding riser. ( Just to be clear the gpu and riser are at the same level, look at your removed stock heatsink to confirm. But with EK your are screwed by the closed thumbscrews. Maybe the standard Swiftech 82 would fit better but I don't know its mounting idiosyncrasies.)

 

[Some users have not experienced this issue. Details HERE]

You need to heatsink the VRMs and RAM if you go with a universal block. I used Enzotech BCC9 for the RAM (the 9mm height does not impede my Bitspower barbs. I used two Swiftech MC21 Mosfet heatsinks for the 4 uncoverd VRMs on the right side of the card. I used one Enzotech MOS-C1 on the powersystem controller APW7165C. The VRMs I put heatsinks on are 4935N, 4927N,4925N, and 4983NF. (The VRMs on the left side of the card, under the long, silver heatsink I did not touch.)

I installed a different I/O bracket on the card that Is made by EK. This results in the card only taking one slot. I can now use the other slot for my cool fan device.

I am using a Titan TTC-SC07TZ (RB) Z-AXIS VGA Cooler. I bought it at Newegg. You can swap out the fans and I did; I used 2 AKUST FANMOD 95 fans that are 95cm diameter but occupy only 90cm space. Their airflow is 40.54cfm at 24.58 db and run at 2,000 rpm max. The Titan card has a fan controller so you can regulate airflow.

Here are some photos:



oats2012's Mod to Lower Temps w/out Watercooling (Click to show)

oats2012

 

Well guys UPDATE!!!

Inspired by other members in the thread I decided to get my hands a little dirty and take apart my card and try for truly better temps.......and well I GOT THEM biggrin.gif

Method:

1. removed the EZ version shroud (additional different steps then the myst)

Steps:
-unscrew 4 screws on the back of the card,pull off heat sink, disconnect fan cable (the card is now free from the heatsink assembly)
- then there are 4 more screws on the underside (side facing the chip itself when the heatsink is on card) unscrew these to detach the shroud and fan from the heatsink

2. I wiped down the heat sink with 91% rubbing alcohol from Walgreens. Didn't take very long, didn't have excessive TIM but it was dried kind of and crusty a bit. Then i used q-tips to remove the TIM from the chip itself ( needed no alcohol actually , chip is so smooth it just pushed off, but i did give one quick wipe with alcohol to make sure no residue)

3. replaced TIM with NT-H1 small blob on the chip (TIM that came with my Noctua NH-D14 when I bought it) I figured if its good enough for the cpu, its good enough for gpu right? (im sure better performance could be had from better TIM but I had this on hand rolleyes.gif )

4. re-attached the heatsink using 4 screws to the card itself (now fanless and shroudless lol)

5. put back in pc

6. constructed my make shift cooler by:

-zip tied two ANTEC TRI-COOL 3 way fans together in the middle
-zip tie the back fan to a pci slot bracket from my C70 case
-zip tie fan cables together
-insert assembly into the pci slot directly below the card
-fans set to high speed

7. added support line to the top of the case to keep the assembly level under the card, it has about an inch clearance from the heatsink in the middle and 1 cm along either side

8. PRAYED that I could boot quick enough before card burned up if the airflow from the mod didnt work lol devil.gif

9. got into windows and was greeted by afterburner running 10 C COOLER than before!!!!!! once everything warmed up it idles at 37C on the card and 38 C on the VRM (so a -8 C difference!)

SO IT WORKED!!! yessir.gifcheers.gif



So i'll be doing a few benchmarks to see how it performs under load, as well as my trusty current games of Borderlands 2, BF3 and Bioshock Infinite

The goal was to keep everything in the high 60's C after the mod, down from 80C in gaming. so hopefully it works smile.gif

I did the best I could to keep it clean. For being free (parts I already had) I'm super happy

I may later try to do an H60 Dwood bracket mod, but didn't want to shell out the money now, so free works

The fans on high arent much louder than the other case fans I have goign and without the ANNOYING BUZZ of the hairdrier stock fan lol. So temps drop and seriosu noise reduction makes me a happy guy thumb.gif

If you managed to make it this far thanks for reading and let me know what you think

 

1407227
 

PICTURES :)! (Click to show)

 












 

 

EDIT: (gaming load results gpu/vrm temps )

Borderlands 2 : 64C/72C

BF3: 64C/71C

Bioshock Infinite: 67C/71C (ultra benchmark run) 63C/71C (real gameplay on ultra)

Tomb Raider: 67C/77C (benchmark) 66C/76C (real gameplay) <
you wouldn't think its that taxing but this game stresses this card out to maintain an even 60 fps


Well like I said I'm really happy with how it turned out. I wish the VRMs were a little lower in some instances but low 70's is much better than upper 70's in my opinion.

during all benchmarks I rank in 3dmark and games the GPU temp never got above 66 C which is cooler than mine ran with stock clocks (but all benchmarks ran at 1200/1500 OC)

so if yall have the change and not the funds to try to improve the temps, then grab some high cfm fans, some zip ties and go to work. only took about an hour for the whole mod and was well worth it thumb.gif
tp4tissue's Tip on Aftermarket Fan Solutions (Click to show)

tp4tissue

 

Make sure there is an INCH gap from the LEFT of the case, because the metal cleft from the pcie mounting bracket blocks airflow.

Also, fans need SPACE above and below them to properly move their rated CFM... the reason the stock type fans don't do a good job is because there's no space beneath them redface.gif

Top and bottom spacing should be around 2cm

You can test this for yourself if you don't believe me.. Plug a fan in and put your hand real close, notice the air pressure is GONE and you get back flow on the reverse side near the rim.

Basically imagine air as a liquid, if there isn't enough space the Fan will simply be turning "Through" the liquid, instead of MOVING the liquid. thumb.gif

 

1426920

 

1426927

How to Make the Accelero S1 Rev.2 Compatible by Veky (Click to show)

Veky

 

I discovered that you must sliglty modificate Accelero S1 Rev.2 to put it on 7870,it has contact without modification but its not full.
Here are the picures:

Without modification



And after cutting smile.gif



Unfortunately,when i did this mod the problem with overheating was still present.
I find out that the culprit was leaked heatpipes from Accelero S1 Rev.2
Here are the pictures,notice the white "something"







So I buyed Accelero S1 Plus(same cooler but with different mountings) and this are the temperatures biggrin.gif


Accelero S1 Plus + 2x120mm 1900rpm
1000/1500
1.030V (in Trixx on 1.068) default is about 1.180-1.200
032 bios
About 4h of playing BF3 MP


Edited by eBombzor - 4/10/14 at 1:18am
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post #2 of 4576
I guess I'll have to fire up the backup system to take screenshots.
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post #3 of 4576
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SkateZilla View Post

I guess I'll have to fire up the backup system to take screenshots.

I made the GPU-Z link optional. You don't have to post it.

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post #4 of 4576
I have one, love it. I just downloaded the 3 drivers listed on the Sapphire site and my "Driver Version" Looks older than yours. This whole "Updating" drivers has always confused me. How do i update to the most recent driver?

I first ran the Disk that came with my card. Then i went on the website, downloaded and ran the 3 "Driver" Files. Am i missing something?




Edited by EssArTee4 - 3/21/13 at 3:37pm
post #5 of 4576
Thread Starter 

Yea. You gotta download the latest drivers off of AMD, not Sapphire and especially not from the disk.

 

First download the uninstall utility (if you're on Windows 7) and run it to uninstall the outdated drivers.

http://sites.amd.com/us/game/downloads/Pages/catalyst-uninstall-utility.aspx

 

Then download the latest drivers here.

http://support.amd.com/us/kbarticles/Pages/AMDCatalyst13-3WINBetaDriver.aspx

 

You don't need Hydravision or the CCC profiles. You just need the display drivers and CCC which come with the download.

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post #6 of 4576
Oh! Thanks i will give this a try.
post #7 of 4576
You don't need the CAPs unless you are running crossfirex. As of 13.3x betas they are rolled into the drivers automatically.
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post #8 of 4576
eBombzor: Thank you very much, worked great, now on the latest driver. Any benefits to this driver over my old one?
post #9 of 4576
Thread Starter 

Depends on the games you play. But there should be a nice 5-10% increase in performance.

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post #10 of 4576
BF3, FC3.
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