Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Water Cooling › No Video After Water Cooling Upgrade
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

No Video After Water Cooling Upgrade

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 
I have a full custom/kit loop consisting of a XSPC RX240 raystorm kit, RX120 and RS240 rads, and two heatkillerx^3 blocks in my sig rig. I've had the CPU loop running for about a month now but I've had bad luck installing the GPUs. They're reference rev2 so I installed 6870 branded blocks on them and isolated some resistors that I thought were shorting the card the first time I got no video.

Confusing part is I plugged everything in last night, booted up, downloaded some stuff played a game and put it to sleep. When I woke up this morning my PC was still on but no video at all. Just like what happened before but it was fine last night.

Maybe it's a power issue? But I've ran with this many fans and pump on my Corsair HX750 before.

Any help would be appreciated
post #2 of 11
If you put on blocks that did not match your cards, and think you shorted something, then there's a good chance you fried your cards.

My best suggestion would be to remove the coolers from the cards, reinstall the stock air coolers, and see if it works.
Blinky
(16 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7-950 @4.034 GHz Asus Rampage III Formula GeForce GTX 770 6GB Crucial Ballistix 1600MHz 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingOS
Samsung 840 Pro SSD EK Supreme HF (full nickel) Danger Den Monsoon Dual-Bay Reservoir/Pump Win 7 Pro 64 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Dell U2410 Rosewill RK-9000 Seasonic X-650 Cosmos 1000 
Other
Lamptron FC5-V2 
  hide details  
Reply
Blinky
(16 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7-950 @4.034 GHz Asus Rampage III Formula GeForce GTX 770 6GB Crucial Ballistix 1600MHz 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingOS
Samsung 840 Pro SSD EK Supreme HF (full nickel) Danger Den Monsoon Dual-Bay Reservoir/Pump Win 7 Pro 64 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Dell U2410 Rosewill RK-9000 Seasonic X-650 Cosmos 1000 
Other
Lamptron FC5-V2 
  hide details  
Reply
post #3 of 11
Thread Starter 
http://www.overclock.net/t/1096058/6870-block-on-my-6950-pics-inside

I did what Shoggy said in that thread, and like I said I had video, great temps, everything working fine last night. This rev2 6950 PCB that I have is based off the 6870 PCB.
post #4 of 11
I'm assuming you've done all the easy stuff like checking that all the cables are seated correctly, cards haven't wiggled loose, Crossfire not causing an issue, etc. etc. Unfortunately when it comes to mysterious PC hardware failures, the only way forward is a meticulous and methodical troubleshoot of everything in the box. If it were me, I'd take out the cards, reinstall the stock coolers, and see if they work. IMO it's unlikely to be PSU related since 750W should be fine for what you have in there, but you never know.

All I can go off of is what you have written, and by far the biggest flag that raises up is the fact that you are using blocks that were not designed for your cards, and your problem started very shortly after installing them. The fact that some people have apparently managed to kludge them on to cards that are similar to yours in the past is not a guarantee that it will work under all conditions. Or even that it continued to work for them... that thread is about 18 months old.
Edited by threephi - 3/21/13 at 10:25am
Blinky
(16 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7-950 @4.034 GHz Asus Rampage III Formula GeForce GTX 770 6GB Crucial Ballistix 1600MHz 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingOS
Samsung 840 Pro SSD EK Supreme HF (full nickel) Danger Den Monsoon Dual-Bay Reservoir/Pump Win 7 Pro 64 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Dell U2410 Rosewill RK-9000 Seasonic X-650 Cosmos 1000 
Other
Lamptron FC5-V2 
  hide details  
Reply
Blinky
(16 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7-950 @4.034 GHz Asus Rampage III Formula GeForce GTX 770 6GB Crucial Ballistix 1600MHz 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingOS
Samsung 840 Pro SSD EK Supreme HF (full nickel) Danger Den Monsoon Dual-Bay Reservoir/Pump Win 7 Pro 64 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Dell U2410 Rosewill RK-9000 Seasonic X-650 Cosmos 1000 
Other
Lamptron FC5-V2 
  hide details  
Reply
post #5 of 11
Thread Starter 
Very true, I've noticed a few other posts about it but I took a risk doing this. Cables are getting pretty tight in my Cooler Master 690 case especially at the front top panel. I've been having trouble turning it on (just won't start when I hit the power button). Maybe I damaged the power button jamming my case shut. Anyway thanks for the help. Just curious, if one of my cards did fry. Would I be getting a LED error message on the MOBO, or would it just power on and output nothing like it is now? I would just pop them out and install the Air Coolers but since it did work fine last night I'm going to keep trouble shooting.

I never tested my PSU when I got it (built this in June 2011). maybe it's getting wonky because there's more of a load on it. But I've ran with both CPU and GPUS decently overclocked and that probably draws more than a pump and some fans.

Doubt this is related to my power switch having a bad connection. I noticed how bent the connection to the switch was getting and a little tug just ripped it right off. I'm in the process of ordering a switch, once I get that done I'll try powering on once more before putting the air coolers back on. Thanks Threephi
Edited by SpecYak - 3/21/13 at 11:30am
post #6 of 11
I can't say one way or the other about a video failure mobo light... it's conceivable that a small problem with the card that only affected the output wouldn't trigger it.

Have you tried using each of the different monitor outputs on the cards? That's an easy thing to check.

Is the only problem (apart from the power switch, which sounds unrelated) that you're not seeing any video output? In other words, boot activity appears and sounds normal? If so then there's no question your PSU is fine and it's clearly an issue with the video cards.

Anyway it sounds like there are a few issues going on with that build so maybe it's time for a new case wink.gif FWIW it's pretty easy to bypass the power switch... the easiest way is just to plug the reset switch into the power switch header instead. They both work by momentary contact.
Quote:
isolated some resistors that I thought were shorting the card the first time I got no video.

This part from your original post is troubling me... it's not clear what the chronology is about what went wrong when. It's also concerning that apparently you had a sense that something shorted out from the very start. Tell me if this chronology is correct:

The video not work initially on the first boot after installing the cards with the waterblocks. Then you went back and remounted the blocks, doing something to try to isolate those resistors. Then it all worked for one evening, but the next morning, after running all night, there was no video. Is that correct? BTW exactly what did you do to isolate the resistors?
Edited by threephi - 3/21/13 at 12:40pm
Blinky
(16 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7-950 @4.034 GHz Asus Rampage III Formula GeForce GTX 770 6GB Crucial Ballistix 1600MHz 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingOS
Samsung 840 Pro SSD EK Supreme HF (full nickel) Danger Den Monsoon Dual-Bay Reservoir/Pump Win 7 Pro 64 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Dell U2410 Rosewill RK-9000 Seasonic X-650 Cosmos 1000 
Other
Lamptron FC5-V2 
  hide details  
Reply
Blinky
(16 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7-950 @4.034 GHz Asus Rampage III Formula GeForce GTX 770 6GB Crucial Ballistix 1600MHz 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingOS
Samsung 840 Pro SSD EK Supreme HF (full nickel) Danger Den Monsoon Dual-Bay Reservoir/Pump Win 7 Pro 64 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Dell U2410 Rosewill RK-9000 Seasonic X-650 Cosmos 1000 
Other
Lamptron FC5-V2 
  hide details  
Reply
post #7 of 11
Thread Starter 
I should have elaborated, in that 18 month old post 2nd page. Are they SMD caps? It looked like they were touching the block so I put scotch tape between them, just above the thermal pads. It booted like this previously and didn't output video. It's afterward that it worked for a night and then stopped today.

Same thing with HDMI
Edited by SpecYak - 3/21/13 at 12:46pm
post #8 of 11
So you booted them the first time without the scotch tape, or only booted the first time after the tape was in place?

Anyway FWIW, IMO scotch tape is a really bad choice and I'm surprised it was suggested in that thread. It's rather thin, and not designed to be an insulator. Over time I would expect that something pressing into it against another surface will split through. Kind of besides the point now, but if faced with that kind of situation, the best solution would be to use a dremel to carefully remove material on the block to completely prevent any contact.
Blinky
(16 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7-950 @4.034 GHz Asus Rampage III Formula GeForce GTX 770 6GB Crucial Ballistix 1600MHz 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingOS
Samsung 840 Pro SSD EK Supreme HF (full nickel) Danger Den Monsoon Dual-Bay Reservoir/Pump Win 7 Pro 64 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Dell U2410 Rosewill RK-9000 Seasonic X-650 Cosmos 1000 
Other
Lamptron FC5-V2 
  hide details  
Reply
Blinky
(16 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7-950 @4.034 GHz Asus Rampage III Formula GeForce GTX 770 6GB Crucial Ballistix 1600MHz 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingOS
Samsung 840 Pro SSD EK Supreme HF (full nickel) Danger Den Monsoon Dual-Bay Reservoir/Pump Win 7 Pro 64 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Dell U2410 Rosewill RK-9000 Seasonic X-650 Cosmos 1000 
Other
Lamptron FC5-V2 
  hide details  
Reply
post #9 of 11
Thread Starter 
Yes this happened before I added the scotch tape, what's confusing is it worked for one night after I added the tape. I'm going to drain and add air coolers on Monday and figure this out. These blocks are heavy and might be warping the card right? Someone who has done this before said they had problems with that. I have a Dremel, so I can do cut it while the blocks are off and maybe order some backplates. You're right, I'd feel much better with the tape off.
post #10 of 11
It's hard to say what the actual problem is until you get to try the blocks with the air coolers but if there was a partial short, it's conceivable that it wouldn't necessarily zap out at once. It could be the kind of thing where the short caused some component or other to overheat rapidly over a brief but non-instantaneous period of time. Take a good close look (and sniff) at the affected section of the PCB--if anything funky did happen, you may be able to detect some melting or discoloration.

PCB's are a little flexible so you might see a tiny bit of sag with the block on it, but I've never heard of anyone having any problems with that. The board is quite strong and the water tubes coming out of the block and connecting to other points help stabilize it.

If you do drill out part of your block, make VERY CAREFUL measurements and of course make sure you aren't going to punch through to a water channel. biggrin.gif I've never done this personally so I can't really speak to the proper procedure, but I'm sure someone on the internet somewhere has done it.
Blinky
(16 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7-950 @4.034 GHz Asus Rampage III Formula GeForce GTX 770 6GB Crucial Ballistix 1600MHz 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingOS
Samsung 840 Pro SSD EK Supreme HF (full nickel) Danger Den Monsoon Dual-Bay Reservoir/Pump Win 7 Pro 64 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Dell U2410 Rosewill RK-9000 Seasonic X-650 Cosmos 1000 
Other
Lamptron FC5-V2 
  hide details  
Reply
Blinky
(16 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7-950 @4.034 GHz Asus Rampage III Formula GeForce GTX 770 6GB Crucial Ballistix 1600MHz 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingOS
Samsung 840 Pro SSD EK Supreme HF (full nickel) Danger Den Monsoon Dual-Bay Reservoir/Pump Win 7 Pro 64 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Dell U2410 Rosewill RK-9000 Seasonic X-650 Cosmos 1000 
Other
Lamptron FC5-V2 
  hide details  
Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Water Cooling
Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Water Cooling › No Video After Water Cooling Upgrade