Originally Posted by ivanlabrie
Either way you do it, a peltier will only get you so far. Adding rads to cool stuff will heat the water cause you'll be using ambient air (which is hotter than your fluid).
Running separate loops like that doesn't seem like a very good idea.
I've seen threads like this popping up and 99% of the time the OPs decided to do someting else cause TEC's are not really viable anymore. They were all the fury back in the pentium 2 era but modern cpus put out much more heat to be really cold under them.
You are a bit mistaken, and are maybe thinking about old crappy 60 and 80watt TECs that were used BITD. Modern TECs are much more powerful and efficient, as are modern PSUs. Add in the technology available to even control their duty cycle based on calculated dew points and TECs are making a comeback.
The OP's idea has a few holes in it that will keep it from working properly, but both in line chillers and IHS mounted TEC systems are definitely still viable - I have been running a single direct IHS setup myself 24/7 for months. My PC is never turned off - TECs are silent and have a much smaller footprint then a phase chiller.
In this case, replacing one side of the block with acrylic is a bad idea since it will reduce surface area of the inside of the block, and those TECs are a poor choice for a chiller since they are too weak. Max delta values are measured in optimum environments, and if a weak TEC is overloaded by the heat its trying to dissipate it won't get anywhere near its listed Dt. The 400 watter listed when ran at 12v will use less power and still perform better then 4 of the weak stacked ones.
If I were making a TEC chiller, I would have a machine shop mill me two simple straight channel base plates out of copper that each fit two 62mm TECs side by side, then mill an acrylic top and sandwich the two TECs between it. Run the cold plate side with a single pump and as short as possible with no radiators, and put as much rad as you can fit on the hot side with dual pumps to prevent too much drop from running so many radiators in series. Drill the CPU waterblock to install a temp probe on it, and set up the two TECs on a controller so you don't have them running 100% 24/7 sucking up hundreds of watts for no reason, and you're good to go.
Sure, it won't be cheap, but it will be a nice way to get your CPU to better then water cooling temps for 24/7 use.Edited by Puck - 3/22/13 at 7:42pm