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post #61 of 93
If galvanic coroshion doesn't occurs why is aluminum and copper so bad if I'm not mistaken we call that the same thing
post #62 of 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bloodystumps View Post

"Galvanic corrosion is an electrochemical process in which one metal corrodes preferentially to another when both metals are in electrical contact and immersed in an electrolyte. The same galvanic reaction is exploited in primary batteries to generate a voltage."

Were is the electricity ????

Electricity is what happens when you have those conditions. It is not externally introduced in this scenario. The galvanic action itself makes the electricity.

I think the key might be understanding what "electrical contact" means in this context. In a nutshell it means simply that two metals are touching each other, or are connected to each other through a chain of other conductive materials. Electrical contact does NOT mean that electricity is actually flowing. It means that electricity could flow if it were present. As the definition you quoted states, you need the third factor of an electrolyte for the galvanic action to occur and make the electricity.

BTW if you have a brass fitting screwed into a copper or nickel block, you have electrical contact right there. If you have a nickel plated block connected to your motherboard, and a copper radiator connected to your case, that's electrical contact too.
Quote:
as far as I know I don't have a 12 volt wire in my coolant ..

most fittings are Nickel plated and pretty much everybody has nickle in their loops...

Right, so you have a 0.05 volt battery in your loop.

The second thing that's going on is that some people (me included tongue.gif) are talking from a scientific standpoint, and others are speaking less precisely but perhaps more practically in terms of whether something makes a significant impact on a PC watercooling setup.

The galvanic potentials between the various metals commonly used in water cooling loops are very small, but they are not zero. There is a very small potential between nickel, copper, and brass, something on the order of 0.05V between copper and nickel. That's so small that in the context of a PC water cooling loop it can usually be disregarded.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bloodystumps View Post

That is not water is is electrolyte aka battery acid and it has to be depleted before turning back to pure water...tell you what you go take a drink from your car battery and I will take a sip of my PC water and who ever posts back is right drum.gif

Yes Distilled water can conduct electricity but it does not contain electricity natural..

Unless the water is absolutely 100% completely pure, in other words never, there will be a small amount of impurities mixed in, and that makes it an electrolyte. A very weak one, but an electrolyte nonetheless. It doesn't have to be straight up battery acid to be an electrolyte.
Quote:
I am no expert in Galvanic corrosion but by definition it need electricity to occur..

By the way you're describing things, no offense, you're way off base. You should really take a quick skim through the wikipedia articles on what galvanic corrosion is and how a simple battery works...
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post #63 of 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by All3n View Post

Now there is still the issue of dissimilar metals reacting with one another. this can be avoided by purchasing a loop that uses one type of metal. (Ideally Silver)
People seemed to misinterpret this too... Silver is a better heat conductor than copper, so the point All3n is making is that ideally, you would use silver. It also happens to be something like 130 times more expensive than copper. So unless you can afford to spend $1,000 on a single block, copper is a better choice.
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post #64 of 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by threephi View Post

People seemed to misinterpret this too... Silver is a better heat conductor than copper, so the point All3n is making is that ideally, you would use silver. It also happens to be something like 130 times more expensive than copper. So unless you can afford to spend $1,000 on a single block, copper is a better choice.

But copper and silver can both be used in the same loop with little to no issues? From my understanding there tends to be little to no galvanic corrosion between the two.
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post #65 of 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZytheEKS View Post

But copper and silver can both be used in the same loop with little to no issues? From my understanding there tends to be little to no galvanic corrosion between the two.
Yeah although in this context he was talking about silver hardware like fittings or blocks. There is a slightly larger potential between copper and silver (0.2V) than between copper and nickel or brass but it's still small enough that it's not usually a problem. If you perform regular maintenance on your loop every six months to a year, most cases the possible corrosion shouldn't be bad enough over that period of time to cause any issues before you catch it.

Having something like a silver killcoil floating inside a plastic res should mean there is no electrical contact with that piece of silver, so direct corrosion isn't a factor. But the free silver ions in the water that do such a good job killing microbes also make the water more electrolytic so it might enhance corrosion between the other metals slightly.
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post #66 of 93
Quote:
By the way you're describing things, no offense, you're way off base. You should really take a quick skim through the wikipedia articles on what galvanic corrosion is and how a simple battery works...

LOL no offense taken I am here to learn (and help when I can) ... I have been reading since my last post and I did miss understand the WIKI page but it gave me a direction to search and research so now I do have a better understanding and this is the part I missed and now understand, copper is 0.35volts so is nickel also that nickel is more of a anode .

Thanks for your input thumb.gif


Anodic Index
Metallurgy Index (Volt)
Gold, solid and plated & Gold-platinum alloy 0.00
Rhodium plated on silver-plated copper 0.05
Silver, solid or plated; monel metal & High nickel-copper alloys 0.15
Nickel, solid or plated, titanium and alloys & Monel 0.30
Copper, solid or plated; low brasses or bronzes; silver solder & German silvery high copper-nickel alloys; nickel-chromium alloys 0.35
Brass and bronzes 0.40
High brasses and bronzes 0.45
18% chromium type corrosion-resistant steels 0.50
Chromium plated; tin plated; 12% chromium type corrosion-resistant steels 0.60
Tin-plate; tin-lead solder 0.65
Lead, solid or plated; high lead alloys 0.70
Aluminum, wrought alloys of the 2000 Series 0.75
Iron, wrought, gray or malleable, plain carbon and low alloy steels 0.85
Aluminum, wrought alloys other than 2000 Series aluminum, cast alloys of the silicon type 0.90
Aluminum, cast alloys other than silicon type, cadmium, plated and chromate 0.95
Hot-dip-zinc plate; galvanized steel 1.20
Zinc, wrought; zinc-base die-casting alloys; zinc plated 1.25
Magnesium & magnesium-base alloys, cast or wrought 1.75
Beryllium 1.85
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post #67 of 93
Ah, the good old "Cooper + Silver" and/or "Nickel + Silver" argument.

Another reason why I stopped using Silver Kill Coils and went with biocides.

I try to always use all copper water blocks, since the radiators I use tend to be copper cores and not nickle. If I could find 100% copper fittings, I'd use those instead, as it would eliminate the "dissimilar metals" issue.

[Edit]

I should have said ... I wish I could find 100% copper G1/4 fittings where the outside of the fitting wasn't copper colored (ie it was black, or shiny chrome) but rather only the internal portions of the fitting where the water flows through was copper, since I already knew that Alphacool makes 100% copper G1/4 fittings.
Edited by 47 Knucklehead - 4/3/13 at 8:25am
post #68 of 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by EK_tiborrr View Post

I can vouch for EK-EKoolant. It has everything you need - corrosion inhibitors, biocide yet it's very light. We couldn't measure visible performance difference between distilled water and EKoolant, every time the results were in line with statistical error. I would take those claims about 5°C temperature drops using water over coolant with the grain of salt.


EK coolant is also on the base side of pH, it is good for loops with more than one metal, as it don't promote galvanic corrosion.
Also, so far it has done nothing to the tubing (no clouding) or my special something i keep in res...



I would never take distilled without corrosion inhibitor in to a loop if it has dissimilar metals...ever. Paying 8 bucks for proper coolant or running the risk of having radiator corroded?
Edited by Cidd - 4/3/13 at 10:52am
post #69 of 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by MrRenefo View Post

Does anyone have any suggestions for exotic fluids that could have been better

No, because their aren't any.

In any remotely practical conditions, nothing matches the volumetric heat capacity of water.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DzillaXx View Post

Water is nice, I'm just someone who will use the same coolant for 1+ years without changing it out. Didnt want to worry about anything growing, does not destroy o-ring mostly a myth. Plus I have a few jugs in the garage, beats driving to the store for water.

Plain distilled water and a kill coil can remain clean and clear for years if put into a loop that has been properly cleaned.

I have a loop with nothing but cheap distilled water, a kill coil, and two drops of jet dry that has no growth, no clouding, and no apparent corrosion, after nearly 30 months.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Legonut View Post

The REAL answer is mercury. The problem is that making an electromagnetic pump to push that mercury would cost a LOT of money. They're also silent and work up to 800C.

Mercury has less than half the heat capacity of water, and below the boiling point of water, it's a vastly inferior coolant compared to water.

It's thermal conductivity is higher, but this is largely irrelevant because water cooling systems pump water through high surface area blocks; it's not stagnant.

Fill your loop with mercury, and even if you had a pump that could handle it, your temps would be worse. Not to mention the fact that mercury is expensive, weighs a ton, is quite toxic, and can corrode many metals.
Edited by Blameless - 4/3/13 at 11:01am
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post #70 of 93
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blameless View Post

Not to mention the fact that mercury is expensive, weighs a ton, is quite toxic, and can corrode many metals.

I heard mercury works good with aluminum blocks. biggrin.gif
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