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Feser Compression Fittings & Primochill Tubing

post #1 of 13
Thread Starter 
Hello All,

I'm having some trouble putting together this new build using 3/8 ID, 5/8 OD Primochill tubing and Feser Compression fittings. I'm finding it damn near impossible to get the fittings onto the tubing, and I can't tell if the problem is me, the fittings, or the tubing.

I've triple checked the measurements, and everything is 3/8 ID, 5/8 OD. I've tried multiple fittings to see if it was a faulty one, still no go.

If I try to put the fittings into the tube on their own, it's just not going to happen, all the force I've got doesn't get them in. If I soak the tubing in boiling water for a minute, I can get the barb into the tubing, though it still requires more force than I'm comfortable with. The biggest problem is that when I go to screw the compression ring down onto the barb, I can barely get it to cover the first thread or so before I simply can't tighten it anymore. I'm talking one, maybe 1 and 1/2 rotations of the ring before it goes no further. Using a wrench I can get it to go another 1/2 rotation, but it's still not on far enough to be comfortable, and using a wrench everywhere in my case seems ill-advised and impractical.

Any suggestions to be had?

Edit: I should mention that I've read some threads that vaguely suggest that Primochill tubing is the issue, as the measurements can be off slightly. This seems unlikely to me, as we'd see this problem more often no?
Edited by Quadricwan - 3/23/13 at 7:10am
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Big Q
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post #2 of 13
Imagery?
post #3 of 13
Thread Starter 
Yes, I realize I should have added some pictures. Bear with me - I'm not much of a photographer.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

These are the fittings I'm using - Feser 3/8 ID, 5/8 OD silver compression fittings:


Using hot water (boiling) I can get the tubing onto the fitting without too much difficulty, but still more force than I'd like to be using near sensitive electronics.


I realize that this is hardly the most accurate measurement - but the cup does appear to have a 5/8 hole...


... while the tubing (PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Crystal Clear) looks slightly larger.


Suffice to say, getting the cup over the hose is a royal PITA.


This is a far down the thread as I can get it to go by hand - not enough that I'm comfortable putting it into my rig.


Using tools I can get it to go a little further down, but still not far, and I know it's not a great idea to be using a wrench etc. in your rig (even if I could reach, everywhere, which I can't).


I've tried multiple bits of hose & more than 1 compression fitting, just to make sure it's not a fluke, and I'm not cross-threading anything. Close (but not scientific) examination makes me think that the Primochill tubing might be slightly off in its sizing.
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Big Q
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post #4 of 13
It's the nature of the compression fittings imo. It takes massive force to secure that thing properly biggrin.gif I had the same problem with my raystorm kit. When I order another rad from dazmode, i'll replace the compressions fittings with barbs and steel clamps to end this nonsense.
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post #5 of 13
wish you best of luck mate

i subbed to thread

im thinking of buying http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10036/ex-tub-605/Bitspower_Ultimate_G_14_Thread_716_ID_x_58_OD_Compression_Fitting_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBCPF-CC6.html?tl=g30c409s1203

for my PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing 7/16"ID x 5/8" OD tubing and im scared of having this same problem frown.gif $75 in fittings would hurt my pockets!!!
  
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post #6 of 13
I have exact same problem with my 1/2 by 3/4 tubing and monsoon fittings.
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post #7 of 13
What I did with my comps is as follows:

I could only get the compression ring on about half way initially.

Once a day, I reach in and see if any of them would turn, most of them are most all they way down now. after say about a week. Some still wont go further but I still try.

Like it was said, it is the nature of the compression fittings, whats the point in making a fitting to squeeze the tubing onto the barb around the entire diameter of the tube if it clamps down so lightly you can do it all the way with ease.
post #8 of 13
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xinoxide View Post

What I did with my comps is as follows:
Once a day, I reach in and see if any of them would turn, most of them are most all they way down now. after say about a week. Some still wont go further but I still try.

I will have to try this - makes sense given that the water will heat the tubing a bit as it flows through the loop.
Quote:
Like it was said, it is the nature of the compression fittings, whats the point in making a fitting to squeeze the tubing onto the barb around the entire diameter of the tube if it clamps down so lightly you can do it all the way with ease.

Yes, point well taken. I know it shouldn't be easy - this isn't the first watercooling I've done - but it just seemed as though this was being exceptionally difficult.

I've certainly tried my hardest to get the tubing off the fitting, and have had no success, even with it only screwed down so far. I'll be doing some extra vigorous leak testing though!
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Big Q
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post #9 of 13
So the rule of thumb will be that the compression fitting will not tighten all the way down at first but over time you will be able to tighten the fitting more?

Does this mean a clamp is more efficient than the compression fitting or is it just the mechanics, example; when the compressions are 80-100% tightened down that it is 100% foolproof?
  
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post #10 of 13
In theory all you want to do is smoosh the tubing into the barb on the fitting to create a seal. That doesn't mean the ring has to go down all the way.

If it went down easily all the way I would be questioning the quality of the tubing, or the fittings. Or possibly my competency in ordering compatible stuff.
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