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post #51 of 91
Quote:
Originally Posted by Intervention View Post
Maybe the next step is to put some ram sinks on the base of it. Only true nerds will ever put a heat sink on top of their heat sinks.

Anybody have experience with this working well or even at all, or is it just a myth that it helps colling, all comments are welcome. Oh, I thanks everybody for the congrats and quick replies....this site rocks.
I have seen people do it and report drops.... on the BT, But with my Noctua, there is so much surface area that the heat is dissipated long before the heat reaches the "top of the HS". At full load after 3-4 hours the top is still cool. So check it out. If you have a full load and the top of the HS is warm or hot, then yeah... give it a shot.
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post #52 of 91
Quote:
Originally Posted by Syrillian View Post
I have seen people do it and report drops.... on the BT, But with my Noctua, there is so much surface area that the heat is dissipated long before the heat reaches the "top of the HS". At full load after 3-4 hours the top is still cool. So check it out. If you have a full load and the top of the HS is warm or hot, then yeah... give it a shot.
Do you mean temperature drops or the heatsinks dropping off?
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post #53 of 91
Quote:
Originally Posted by JacKz5o View Post
Do you mean temperature drops or the heatsinks dropping off?
Bwwahahhahaha! That's good dood!

In all actuality that was a concern... The P180's airbox also acts as a support.



Note that I had to mod the airbox by taking off an inch. The mod does not restrict the airflow as the cubic area removed is "behind" the draw-space.
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post #54 of 91
umm im still confused.. with the grits.. how long do i use each grit for.. like i got all the grits but i dont know how long do i use each for?
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post #55 of 91
Quote:
Originally Posted by v!p3r^ View Post
umm im still confused.. with the grits.. how long do i use each grit for.. like i got all the grits but i dont know how long do i use each for?
Assuming you don't have any major scratches or dents to rub out then I'd say around 5-10 minutes each. You can kinda feel it once the "whatever you're lapping" is smooth enough to move up to the next grit.
    
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post #56 of 91
Thread Starter 
Yeah, I stopped after the sanding got considerably smoother than the beginning because every time you moved up a grit, it got really really hard to start up again I guess there really isn't a set amount of time. Really, I justed winged it and I think I got good results. Just don't press down too hard, the weight of the heatsink should be enough, and be patient, it takes a good 2-3 hours.
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post #57 of 91
Quote:
Originally Posted by v!p3r^ View Post
umm im still confused.. with the grits.. how long do i use each grit for.. like i got all the grits but i dont know how long do i use each for?
The time factor aside, consider the appearance of the surface. Look for uniformity along the entire footprint. At lower grits it will be fine scratches, moving on to a hazing and then to a mirror-like sheen.

When lapping I have found that alternating between circular motions and horizontal/vertical motions keeps the ablation even. When the surface is uniform make one last smooth stroke accross the sandpaper. At lower grits all the striation's should be in one direction, with none being perpendicular to the stroke. Then move to the next grit.

When moving up in grades you may notice the sheen becoming less sharp...that is normal, just keep going.

when you reach your final grit your surface will have a good reflection. Use a bright light (backlight) and take a look along the surface. As you move the surface from side-to-side you may see minor marrings... persist until these are gone. As before, when you are done, make a single and final pass, then inspect.

It's like sharpening a blade. Strokes go all in one direction. When the blade is ready a single stroke in the opposite direction moves the burr to the other side of the blade edge leaving it raxor sharp.... but we are after mirror-finish.
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post #58 of 91
Thread Starter 
^^^^^Very well said, I used alot of circular strokes through the middle grits but straight strokes through 400, 1500, 2000. Just give it a try, as long as you go slow and steady, I really don't think you can screw it up, or maybe you can??, not you in specific, but is it possible to screw up your heatsink by a bad lapping???
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post #59 of 91
One thing I would like to add is that it is a real waste of time/grit/energy to start off lapping with too fine a paper. My BT was so concave that I could have lapped for a month with 600 and gotten no where--so do alittle legwork first and check the base with a machinist straight edge or the equivalent.

This is simple really--hold a perfectly straight edge on the base and look for a glint of light under it--use a strong light and look close--if you see light between the steel and the heatsink then you need to work on that base--how much light determines how aggressive to start off.

My BT was so concave I started with 120...

As Transonic said you can kind of tell when it's time--but a sure way to know is to train your eye and use a light at an angle to actually see the grooves from the grit. When the slightly deeper grooves start to dissappear and only the slightly finer ones remain then it is time to move up.

This applies only if you have flattened the base with your coarsest grit first.

There is no sense in changing to finer and finer grits until you have first flattened the base with coarse grit.

As far as how high to go--that prolly has more to do with your mental than the physical benefit LOL--the primary thing is to flatten the base. The rest is what some people would call "finessing" or "fine-tuning" but honestly I think anything over 600 is just to make the individual happy LOL...I seriously doubt you will note any performance gain from mirror polish versus perfectly flat 600...
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post #60 of 91
Also to add to the straight edge, make a 'X' on the base with a sharpie, when thats gone you know you are close to or are level. Do this through out the lapping job. I did it, at the start and middle of each grits.
    
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