Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Water Cooling › My Corsair H100 leaked on my new 680-GTX
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

My Corsair H100 leaked on my new 680-GTX - Page 13  

post #121 of 180
Quote:
Originally Posted by webdevii View Post


I think where the design flaw is in the Corsairs anyways is the pump sits rite on the water block looking back at that not such a hot idea, as that is where mine leaked at the water block split from the pump and "Shower Time...

Thanks for your reply

Dev

this is how the swiftech apoogee drive 1 and 2 are made. i havent heard of any failures with it. there may be some but i have never read any. if it was a bad design, they would not have used it when they redesigned that block/pump combo for the h220
w00t
(18 items)
 
   
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
ph2 x20be asus m4a785-m sapphire vapor-x 4850  geil black dragon 1066 5-5-5-15-20 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
wd  asus dvd multi-write arctic cooling freezer 64 pro win 7 ultimate x64 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
samsung 42" lcd logitech wireless antec basic 500watt old dell crap 
MouseAudio
logitech wireless pioneer 7.1 
  hide details  
w00t
(18 items)
 
   
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
ph2 x20be asus m4a785-m sapphire vapor-x 4850  geil black dragon 1066 5-5-5-15-20 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
wd  asus dvd multi-write arctic cooling freezer 64 pro win 7 ultimate x64 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
samsung 42" lcd logitech wireless antec basic 500watt old dell crap 
MouseAudio
logitech wireless pioneer 7.1 
  hide details  
post #122 of 180
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pc-illiterate View Post

this is how the swiftech apoogee drive 1 and 2 are made. i havent heard of any failures with it. there may be some but i have never read any. if it was a bad design, they would not have used it when they redesigned that block/pump combo for the h220

You do have a point there,

I still would just rather deal with fittings at the block and not a pump, keeping everything as close to the bottom of the case or on the bottom of the case as possible.

This is the first I have heard of the H220, I currently have a New H100i sitting here in an unopened sealed factory box looking to sell it. $75.00

Just something about something someone else builds I dont trust, I trust myself more, JMO.

Dev
post #123 of 180
The biggest advantage of running a custom loop is in the ability to design better tube routing. Any WC setup can leak, but with a CLC you're most likely to have leaks either at your CPU or over your board (if leak is at radiator rather than CPU/Pump side. With a decently designed custom loop you have more fittings (i.e. more likely places to leak) but all but the CPU connections can be made in areas of the case where a leak would mean, at worst, it shorts out a fan or two.
post #124 of 180
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DiGiCiDAL View Post

The biggest advantage of running a custom loop is in the ability to design better tube routing. Any WC setup can leak, but with a CLC you're most likely to have leaks either at your CPU or over your board (if leak is at radiator rather than CPU/Pump side. With a decently designed custom loop you have more fittings (i.e. more likely places to leak) but all but the CPU connections can be made in areas of the case where a leak would mean, at worst, it shorts out a fan or two.

Yeah the Custom Loop I am building will have the res and pump as one unit so instead of 4 fittings 2 for res and 2 for pump I will only have 2 for the pump / res combined. Then 2 on Rad and 2 on Water Block, since my board is vertical I stand a better chance of avoiding a major catastrophe vs a flat mounted board.

either way liquid and electrical you always run the risk it is just how professional you do the work. also question for you, is it recommended to use like teflon tape or locktite on the fittings to minimize leaks?

Thanks
Dev
post #125 of 180
Where exactly was it leaking from? Did the tubing crack or was it leaking from the barbs on the radiator?
post #126 of 180
AS for building your own custom loop i would honestly reccomend using 7/16"th tubing over 1/2" barbs they go on super tight I have been running my rig for 2 years like this, and not even a drop of a leak out of them, for more info look at my buildlog. If you have any questions feel free to ask.

My whole rig is watercooled even my ram.
http://www.overclock.net/t/935213/the-lac

And also glad corsair made it right i have a faulty psu of there's awaiting a rma but it has served me well since 10/30/2010
post #127 of 180
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RX7-2nr View Post

Where exactly was it leaking from? Did the tubing crack or was it leaking from the barbs on the radiator?

The H100 seperated between the pump and waterblock and one of the inlet fittings on the pump. just an all around nightmare

Thanks for the reply
Dev
post #128 of 180
Provided that you have good components (i.e. no damaged threads and precise machining) you shouldn't need either Loctite or Teflon tape. It's the O-rings that keep it from leaking and as long as they are fresh and you've tightened (but not over tightened) your fittings it shouldn't leak for many years. If you find you need to update some things or are changing your loop after a year or so, it's a good idea to order some new O-rings prior to doing the maintenance/modification as they will lose some of their 'sponginess' after awhile... but they're really cheap (compared to the fittings at least).

If you're going compression fittings, you should use the proper ID/OD tubing for it. If you're going barbs, I'd follow solar's suggestion. In fact, if you want to be really confident in no leaks, you can even go for the super-overkill of doing 7/16" ID tubing on 1/2" barbs and use clamps on the barbs as well. It's not necessary, but if you're not going to mess with the loop for quite awhile... it can give you a little extra piece of mind knowing that no matter how soft your tubing gets during heavy use... you'll still be secure. Just be patient in putting the tubing on... you may need to use hot water on the ends of the tubing to soften them enough to get over the barbs initially (but that's how tight and secure they will be after they're on)!

I use compression fittings, and the only leak I've ever had was in the fitting itself (Bitspower 3-way 90 degree rotary) - I've never had a leak at the tubing connection - just remember to not over tighten the compression sleeve and you're good (there should be a small gap between the sleeve and the fitting base when properly tightened). If you tighten comp fittings all the way down they can actually shear the tubing and make a poor seal.

As far as your earlier question about non-conductive coolant. It's true that fully distilled or deionized water is non-conductive... but that only last for a little while... since copper is definitely conductive and most of your loop will be either copper or brass, over time the water picks up molecules of the metals in your loop and become conductive. Premixed coolants usually contain an anti-corrosive as well as an anti-microbial (for alge etc) which should help maintain equilibrium... however, depending on what the actual components of these additives are - they may make the coolant conductive as well.

In general, I would probably recommend just using either a mayhems pastel (if you are not planning on doing anything with your loop for years - it's good for 2-3 years in a loop without modification) or pure distilled with an anti-microbial (pt nuke or similar) you can get a bunch for cheap if you buy it from a pool supply store... but then you've got a gallon of something you only need 1 drop of each time you drain and refill your loop! Alternatively you can add some pure silver - bullion or SKC/bullet-plug - as an anti-microbial. In general I would recommend against using both - it's overkill and may alter the pH of your water too much which will make it more corrosive. For anti-corrosion you can add a small amount of anti-freeze (ethylene glycol) to your coolant. Some people swear by it, numerous commercial coolants use it, I avoid it personally. In my loop I just run all distilled, 1 drop of PT-Nuke and that's it. I drain and re-fill the loop at least once every 3 months so I'm not too worried about contamination. I like it mostly because it's non-toxic (the anti-microbial is slightly dangerous - but only in pure form... never diluted to 1 drop per liter or so of water) and colorless... so if I spill some on my carpet when draining... I can just use a towel to soak up the spill and let it air dry.
post #129 of 180
Thread Starter 
I was just informed by ASUS that they are going to replace my main board no charge!!!
Even though it was due to my cooler leaking on it. imagine that!

Just thought I would pass on the update on this case.


Dev
post #130 of 180
Quote:
Originally Posted by webdevii View Post

I was just informed by ASUS that they are going to replace my main board no charge!!!
Even though it was due to my cooler leaking on it. imagine that!

Just thought I would pass on the update on this case.


Dev

great news. happy you got a new pc. hows that cpu doing ? did the h100 trash it too ? i bet it did! lol devil-smiley-019.gif
w00t
(18 items)
 
   
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
ph2 x20be asus m4a785-m sapphire vapor-x 4850  geil black dragon 1066 5-5-5-15-20 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
wd  asus dvd multi-write arctic cooling freezer 64 pro win 7 ultimate x64 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
samsung 42" lcd logitech wireless antec basic 500watt old dell crap 
MouseAudio
logitech wireless pioneer 7.1 
  hide details  
w00t
(18 items)
 
   
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
ph2 x20be asus m4a785-m sapphire vapor-x 4850  geil black dragon 1066 5-5-5-15-20 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
wd  asus dvd multi-write arctic cooling freezer 64 pro win 7 ultimate x64 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
samsung 42" lcd logitech wireless antec basic 500watt old dell crap 
MouseAudio
logitech wireless pioneer 7.1 
  hide details  
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Water Cooling
This thread is locked  
Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Water Cooling › My Corsair H100 leaked on my new 680-GTX