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[How To] Delid your Ivy Bridge CPU with out a Razor Blade! - Page 13

post #121 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr/owned View Post

I think I'm going to go straight for the hammer method with my fixture. Re-watching the original delid video, it seems the glue takes quite a bit of force to actually remove and I won't have the arm strength for that.
With the extra force of leverage per the length of your piece of wood you could definitely do it. The question is should you? Will the pcb take it? Logically it seems that if you can hit the glue loose you can twist it loose. It is not like the glue is hard or brittle, it is more rubbery. I think the hard part is applying the twisting force just right. Anyway, I would be interested to know if anyone tries it at some point. I would if I hadn’t done both my chips already.
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post #122 of 1399
So once the 3770k is delidded... can you just reapply any normal heatsink or waterblock, as long as you take caution not to apply too much pressure? It would seem as if the block would touch the die and still conduct heat without a modification.
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post #123 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by m3t4lh34d View Post

So once the 3770k is delidded... can you just reapply any normal heatsink or waterblock, as long as you take caution not to apply too much pressure? It would seem as if the block would touch the die and still conduct heat without a modification.

You will most likely need to take the retention bracket off of your motherboard as the die is below it. Correct me if I'm wrong. and that comes with its own set of problems.
post #124 of 1399
Yes the die is below the level of the retention bracket. Coolers also use standoffs to prevent idiots from wrenching them down so far they smash the die, and without the IHS it's possible/probable you won't be able to screw it down enough to touch the die directly.

All EK is doing is selling a kit with lower standoffs and charging 10x what it costs. Because Koolance doesn't fuse the standoff to the post, all I'm doing is replacing the standoff with a smaller one that you can get from McMaster or any number of places.

It is a small can of worms though because now you have to use the waterblock to push the chip into the socket, since you no longer have the retention bracket doing that.
Edited by dr/owned - 3/31/13 at 7:47pm
post #125 of 1399
Don't bother with direct die...more often than not an ihs with proper tim and contact will help dissipate heat better vs the die by itself against a block/heatsink base. And it's actually much simpler, so what's the point? You already got like a 25c advantage, don't get greedy! biggrin.gif
post #126 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by ivanlabrie View Post

Don't bother with direct die...more often than not an ihs with proper tim and contact will help dissipate heat better vs the die by itself against a block/heatsink base. And it's actually much simpler, so what's the point? You already got like a 25c advantage, don't get greedy! biggrin.gif

For me, because I'm also going to be running chilled water and going through the effort of blowing dehumidifier air into my case to prevent condensation, I might as well take it to the extreme by going direct die as well. I wants me 5.2 Ghz or more.
post #127 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr/owned View Post

For me, because I'm also going to be running chilled water and going through the effort of blowing dehumidifier air into my case to prevent condensation, I might as well take it to the extreme by going direct die as well. I wants me 5.2 Ghz or more.

I haven't seen anyone go direct die and subzero man...but well, as you wish. Good luck!
Oh, one thing...if you go subzero DON'T use anything other than cheap ceramique or Gelid Gc Extreme. Liquid Pro kills chips when subzero (same as cLU)
post #128 of 1399
I chickened out today with the blade, made a few passes...got nervous and put it back down. I think i'll go with the vice method tomorrow.
 
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post #129 of 1399
doing this. will try carefully twisting before i try the block and hammer.


couple questions. if the IHS is not perfectly placed, will the cpu fail to boot?

secondly, how do you apply tim to the die? is it just like the rice grain method, or do you do more of a long line down the length of the die?
 
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post #130 of 1399
DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TO CALIBRATE THE HAMMER????
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