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[How To] Delid your Ivy Bridge CPU with out a Razor Blade! - Page 14

post #131 of 1399
Just kidding, obviously. But this is frickin genius.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fnarfbargle View Post

Meh. I only came here to get an idea of how to overclock my 3770 and in the process documented something that i saw as so obvious I wondered why people were wasting time with razor blades.

Yeah, this is the definition of genius. frarfbargle is like the von Neumann of wood, or something.

CLU ordered. thumb.gif
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post #132 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamdox View Post

DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TO CALIBRATE THE HAMMER????

Jeremy Clarkson will know.
 
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post #133 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by She loved E View Post

Good thread... might do this the next time I delid (failed once already with a razor).

Seriously this makes me consider doing it again also. I really don't want to kill another chip, but these temps are pitiful and it's not even summer yet.
post #134 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by srsparky32 View Post

doing this. will try carefully twisting before i try the block and hammer.


couple questions. if the IHS is not perfectly placed, will the cpu fail to boot?

secondly, how do you apply tim to the die? is it just like the rice grain method, or do you do more of a long line down the length of the die?
The pcb needs to be placed properly, the IHS doesn't have to be "perfect". I use the gold dots at the top of the pcb to line it up, the top of the IHS will be right below them. You should use CL ultra or pro on the die, there are video showing how to apply them on the CL website. You use a very small amount and spread pro with a qtip or paint the die with the brush that comes with ultra.
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post #135 of 1399
Bad news: the CNC guy came back with a quote that increased massively over the original one. Because he can't handle Solidworks files, I'd basically get charged for him to redraw what I've already done. For $125 an hour mad.gif

The whole goal was to create a fixture that would delid safely. But for $200 I could destroy a 3770k and still come out ahead. Shopping around now for a CNC service that will handle my files directly and do this job for under $100.
post #136 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamdox View Post

DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TO CALIBRATE THE HAMMER????

the correct strike force is that which would REALLY HURT YOUR FINGER wink.gif
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post #137 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr/owned View Post

Bad news: the CNC guy came back with a quote that increased massively over the original one. Because he can't handle Solidworks files, I'd basically get charged for him to redraw what I've already done. For $125 an hour mad.gif

The whole goal was to create a fixture that would delid safely. But for $200 I could destroy a 3770k and still come out ahead. Shopping around now for a CNC service that will handle my files directly and do this job for under $100.

you really do not need to get that elaborate, a regular vise will work fine. If you can find a small machine vise with metal non-marring jaws all the better.
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post #138 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by justanoldman View Post

The pcb needs to be placed properly, the IHS doesn't have to be "perfect". I use the gold dots at the top of the pcb to line it up, the top of the IHS will be right below them. You should use CL ultra or pro on the die, there are video showing how to apply them on the CL website. You use a very small amount and spread pro with a qtip or paint the die with the brush that comes with ultra.

i have arctic cooling MX-4, would that work?

thx for the explanation on how to re mount the ihs.
 
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post #139 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by srsparky32 View Post

i have arctic cooling MX-4, would that work?

thx for the explanation on how to re mount the ihs.
Like most things on OCN, not everyone agrees on this. The majority believe that CL ultra or pro are the best for the die, and you will see the maximum results that way.

I-shot just did a comparison, and you can see the metal TIMs outperform. There is the other fact of pump out effect also. The metal TIMs don’t suffer the same effect compared to other TIMs with the IHS putting a lot of force on the die and trying to push out any TIM you put there.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1376460/liquid-metal-versus-non-metal-compounds-update

You can use MX-4 but you may suffer pump out over time, and most think you will get better temps with a liquid metal TIM. Most TIMs are made for IHS to cooler use, not die to IHS use and the liquid metal TIM have so far performed the best.
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post #140 of 1399
Just picked this up today:



$20 at lowes

I've got the hammer and wooden block...!

I am nervous! Should I heat it up?! Or just go for it? I'll give it a few taps...if it doesn't come off, I will say screw it and try tomorrow. tongue.gif
 
Lester the Tester
(12 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 3770k @4.4ghz - 1.18v Maximus V Formula EVGA GTX 1080 FTW Crucial Ballistix 2x8gb 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Crucial 256gb SSD + RAID 5 3x2TB plextor DVD/CD+/-RW Corsair H100 W10 Pro - 64Bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
LG 34UM69-G G15 AX850 Thermaltake P5 
MouseAudioOther
Logitech G5 Max V Formula Gentle Typhoon AP-45 x7 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
e7400 @3.8ghz (Air) asus p5q se EVGA GTX 280 G.Skill HyperX 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Seagate  hyper212 evo W7 Ultimate-64Bit Samsung PX2370 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
k800 CM 550W Random thermaltake G5 
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Lester the Tester
(12 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 3770k @4.4ghz - 1.18v Maximus V Formula EVGA GTX 1080 FTW Crucial Ballistix 2x8gb 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
Crucial 256gb SSD + RAID 5 3x2TB plextor DVD/CD+/-RW Corsair H100 W10 Pro - 64Bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
LG 34UM69-G G15 AX850 Thermaltake P5 
MouseAudioOther
Logitech G5 Max V Formula Gentle Typhoon AP-45 x7 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
e7400 @3.8ghz (Air) asus p5q se EVGA GTX 280 G.Skill HyperX 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Seagate  hyper212 evo W7 Ultimate-64Bit Samsung PX2370 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
k800 CM 550W Random thermaltake G5 
  hide details  
Reply
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