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[How To] Delid your Ivy Bridge CPU with out a Razor Blade! - Page 23

post #221 of 1399
The biggest PITA is having a vice and hammer, and a block of wood. Past that it's not really hard. The glue is pretty weak looking at it, so it'd probably be easily pry-able with a small screwdriver if there was a gap for that.

Already have CLU standing by. Also got my package from McMaster with a bunch of standoffs and washers to try. I also bought a micrometer so I can measure the thickness of the IHS directly rather than using spec sheets. Should give me a good starting point for how much lower the standoffs need to be on the waterblock.
post #222 of 1399
Wow! That is quite genius.. I may buy a 3770k just to do it again! Razorless of course
post #223 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr/owned View Post

Job done. Went to Home Depot, bought this vise for $20: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Irwin-3-in-Clamp-On-Vise-226303ZR/100537101#.UVt1zi2gz74
Bought a $6 hammer (yeah didn't own one).
First attempt the chip flew out. It was clamped in "finger tight". Second attempt I did "wrist tight". Gave it about 6 firm whacks. The IHS didn't pop off the PCB like it did in the OP video, but I saw the PCB jumping when I hit it, so I just then peeled the IHS off. Little sticky, but no problem.
Holy crap the IHS is heavy.

now that's a great report! Once you have the IHS in your hand you quickly realize that it can withstand a firm clamping... folks - the IHS is a study piece of metal, you are not going to crush it without extraordinary effort on the vise lever.

great job Dr. (the chip still works...blinksmiley.gif right?
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post #224 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr/owned View Post

The biggest PITA is having a vice and hammer, and a block of wood. Past that it's not really hard. The glue is pretty weak looking at it, so it'd probably be easily pry-able with a small screwdriver if there was a gap for that.

Already have CLU standing by. Also got my package from McMaster with a bunch of standoffs and washers to try. I also bought a micrometer so I can measure the thickness of the IHS directly rather than using spec sheets. Should give me a good starting point for how much lower the standoffs need to be on the waterblock.

are you going die to cpublock directly? if yes, make sure the block is compatible with CLU (no Alu or Cu).
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post #225 of 1399
Yep going direct die with the Koolance 380i block. Nickel plated, currently the top rated waterblock one can buy at any price.

Ordered 4-40 screws though and it turns out Koolance uses 6-32. D'oh. Ordered the proper ones and they're shipping as I type (love McMaster). Have to wait until Thurs. to see if the chip is still functional.

The PCB and die weigh 5.2g. The IHS weighs 22.1g.

Anyway here's a pic of the PCB cleaned off (just used a dremel with a ton of isopropyl as lubricant (5k rpm, felt polishing wheel)). It did mar the solder mask a bit, but didn't penetrate so should be ok. The stain on the right side is from the stock thermal paste. Similar stain on IHS that I can't get out with isopropyl or articlean.

post #226 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr/owned View Post

^^ I see 0 damage on either the IHS or the PCB edge.

The wood I used was pine and does have an indentation in it of the PCB.

Yes it's theoretically possible to put enough shock on the die that the metal layers move around, but I don't think that would really happen here, especially since the glue moves with each strike and "airbags" it.

@kuufa

but how if you are hitting the chip directly with a hammer through a wood block

( i used example before, if you have nerve damage and your tooth hurts, if you put a wood block on your tooth and hit your wood block with a hammer, your definitely going to feel it )

this sounds so much easier than using a razer but i honestly dont want to risk hammering a chip and causing shock damage to it frown.gif
  
Reply
  
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post #227 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by INCREDIBLEHULK View Post

i honestly dont want to risk hammering a chip and causing shock damage to it frown.gif

Hm, it sounds like you're not really comfortable delidding this way! Personally, I'm only worried about chipping or cracking the die, a risk I hope to mitigate via the strategic use of towels. It's not like it has moving parts that can get out of alignment or anything biggrin.gif
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post #228 of 1399
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr/owned View Post

Yep going direct die with the Koolance 380i block. Nickel plated, currently the top rated waterblock one can buy at any price.

Ordered 4-40 screws though and it turns out Koolance uses 6-32. D'oh. Ordered the proper ones and they're shipping as I type (love McMaster). Have to wait until Thurs. to see if the chip is still functional.

The PCB and die weigh 5.2g. The IHS weighs 22.1g.

Anyway here's a pic of the PCB cleaned off (just used a dremel with a ton of isopropyl as lubricant (5k rpm, felt polishing wheel)). It did mar the solder mask a bit, but didn't penetrate so should be ok. The stain on the right side is from the stock thermal paste. Similar stain on IHS that I can't get out with isopropyl or articlean.

-snip

looks good ill go ahead and add you to the spreadsheet.

what would you rate the difficulty? 1-10

Quote:
Originally Posted by INCREDIBLEHULK View Post

@kuufa

but how if you are hitting the chip directly with a hammer through a wood block

( i used example before, if you have nerve damage and your tooth hurts, if you put a wood block on your tooth and hit your wood block with a hammer, your definitely going to feel it )

this sounds so much easier than using a razer but i honestly dont want to risk hammering a chip and causing shock damage to it frown.gif

Well thats why you use soft wood to mitigate the "damage" done but just think about it The adhesive is a softer material than the IHS and the PCB so therefore its the weakest component that will give away.

If you aren't convinced than just give it a go with a cheaper Pentium if you can find one. I would have to say its very hard to damage the PCB if you have it clamped down tight enough to where it doesn't fall out when you hit it.
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post #229 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by KuuFA View Post


looks good ill go ahead and add you to the spreadsheet.

what would you rate the difficulty? 1-10

Probably a 3. It's possible to screw up, but you'd probably have to go out of your way to do that.

EDIT: Read your scale. It would be a 7.

Maybe include what wood and hammer was used in a "Notes" section. Mine was 1/2" pine wood with a 16 oz regular claw hammer.
Edited by dr/owned - 4/2/13 at 8:07pm
post #230 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by INCREDIBLEHULK View Post

this sounds so much easier than using a razer but i honestly dont want to risk hammering a chip and causing shock damage to it frown.gif

People fear what they don't understand.
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