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[How To] Delid your Ivy Bridge CPU with out a Razor Blade! - Page 38

post #371 of 1399
Officially running on a direct die cooling setup right now.

Really weird temperatures.

Core 0 - 36C Core 1 - 23C Core 2 - 36 C Core 3 - 28C
post #372 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpmboy View Post

Very Nice!! With the right equipment, it's stupid easy.. right?

Stupid easy, I even had a trial run with a Pentium E2220 that took a couple more hits but came off easily. Older glue gets harder I guess.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yosarian View Post

Gorgeous shot and amazing temp drops. Congrats.

Thanks, and the nice pic is courtesy of my GS3 thumb.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by She loved E View Post

ITS HAMMER TIME!

3 good taps with my calibrated hammer and she was free.

Now for the good part:

BEFORE
4.8GHz @ 1.285v
Max temps after 45min P95
86 92 86 83

AFTER (CLP on die)
4.8GHz @ 1.285v
Max temps after 45min P95
59 66 59 58

DROP
26C

Thanks KuuFa and fnarfbargle for making it possible! I failed once with a razor so the redemption is sweet. gunner2.gif

Nice! Would you care to share your BIOS template? Since we have similar boards, I'm curious as to what settings you're using. Clearly you have a good chip but I'm needing 1.32 to get 4.7 stable. I want to see if maybe I'm missing something.
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post #373 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr/owned View Post

Officially running on a direct die cooling setup right now.

Really weird temperatures.

Core 0 - 36C Core 1 - 23C Core 2 - 36 C Core 3 - 28C

can you share how you did the mount... just estimated the necessary shims for Die-Cooler contact pressure? Or ???
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post #374 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by KuuFA View Post

Pics?

This list is getting pretty long lol.

Hey,

The garage is a bit messy, but it works:



After a little bit of cleaning:



I am hoping for additional improvements with the CLU that's coming in sometime in the future.

So far no OC gains. But I do like the temperature drop!
post #375 of 1399
So guys I am trying to wrap my head around this because I am sincerely thinking of doing this.

I just want to make sure I have everything down.

So after the lid comes off we scrape off the black lid adhesive and original thermal past on the die then we reapply some good paste like the CoolLab Ultra to the die and put the lid back on and use the motherboard socket bracket to keep it in place.

We do this because the adhesive used to fasten the lid creates a gap between the die and the lid that causes this thing to heat up faster than a frying pan?

Am I getting this right?
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post #376 of 1399
You've pretty much got it correct, yes.
post #377 of 1399
Thread Starter 
Yup I am going to upload a video on how to clean off the adhesive and apply CLU but Ive been busy trying to stabilize my system first tongue.gif

And congrats to all ill have to update the list later tonight smile.gif
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post #378 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jpmboy View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by dr/owned View Post

Officially running on a direct die cooling setup right now.

Really weird temperatures.

Core 0 - 36C Core 1 - 23C Core 2 - 36 C Core 3 - 28C

can you share how you did the mount... just estimated the necessary shims for Die-Cooler contact pressure? Or ???

I actually ended up not having to do anything special to the mounting hardware. Wait, I take that back. I had to use 3 of the same type of screws that hold the motherboard down to replace the 3 screws that normally hold down the retention plate. I wanted to make sure I was still using the retention-plate back plate because it probably prevents the mobo from flexing.

The 380i doesn't actually have anything stopping it from being screwed down (like the standoffs). I just kept screwing until the springs were fully compressed. (I did do this with the motherboard on my desk and not in the case). It looks like the die will get pushed down .5mm before the waterblock hits the top of the socket edges, which probably prevents you from torquing it down to the point of cracking the die.

I started off using the depth-measurement ability of my calipers (the stick that comes out the end) to make sure that all my threads were starting at the same depth. Then I took a sharpie and drew a line indicating 12 o'clock on each thumb nut. Then I just did quarter turns on each nut (12 o clock -> 3 -> 6 -> 9)....took a really long time when you're doing it that methodically.

I think my temperature improvement is at least 35C. I'm running way higher voltage than I was pre-delid and my temperature is still 15C lower.

(and my load temperatures look normal. Core 1 > Core 2 > Core 3 > Core 0.

Re: above, I just used a dremel with the felt polishing wheel to get the glue off the PCB. Kept pouring lots of isopropyl for lubrication. 5k rpm and a fair amount of pressure.
Edited by dr/owned - 4/5/13 at 9:51am
post #379 of 1399
Success! I bought a 1"x1/2"x6" piece of poplar hard wood, and a different vice. Popped off 3 hits.
post #380 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by Qlix View Post

Success! I bought a 1"x1/2"x6" piece of poplar hard wood, and a different vice. Popped off 3 hits.

Nice! Congratulations man. thumb.gif
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