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[How To] Delid your Ivy Bridge CPU with out a Razor Blade! - Page 40

post #391 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by justanoldman View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by jamdox View Post

Well, I know what I'm getting into to the extent that I watched the videos on the Coollaboratories website wink.gif I was just wondering because I have a lot of CLU but not much PK1. I don't change my heatsink frequently... we'll see how I feel after I've applied CLU to the die. Wish me luck thumb.gif
Read my post here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1313179/official-delidded-ivy-bridge-club/13230#post_19452973
And here
http://www.overclock.net/t/1313179/official-delidded-ivy-bridge-club/15350#post_19644142
to know what you are getting into down the road. They show pics of CLU after it dries, gets hard, and acts a little like glue.

Did you pull the heatsink while it was still hot? I think CLU is gallium with some sort of thinner to keep it liquid at lower temperature for application. It seems that if the thinner goes away after a while that you could still get the gallium off if the system is > 88 F (or whatever the melting point is of gallium).

I can find references where gallium is known to dissolve copper and form a cement, but nothing on it dissolving nickel.
post #392 of 1399
Interesting. Looking at the CLU manual, I see
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coollaboratory View Post

Advice: The application on copper surfaces is a bit easier than on nickelplated ones, but possible is both.

If they recommend copper and it turns out like that, I think I'm best sticking with PK1 on top. Thanks.
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post #393 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr/owned View Post

Did you pull the heatsink while it was still hot? I think CLU is gallium with some sort of thinner to keep it liquid at lower temperature for application. It seems that if the thinner goes away after a while that you could still get the gallium off if the system is > 88 F (or whatever the melting point is of gallium).

I can find references where gallium is known to dissolve copper and form a cement, but nothing on it dissolving nickel.
That is not how I viewed it. When it has been between two metal surfaces for weeks or more, it dries and acts a little like cement, you have to really pull to get the heatsink off. When it comes off the CLU is hard and rough to the touch. A few degrees of heat would not have made any difference imo.

Since the die is not metal though, it does not dry and act like glue there. You would know more than me, but it seems to need two metal surfaces to dry and get hard.

Like I said, I get good thermal results with it, but be prepared to spend a couple hours cleaning the IHS and heatsink if you need to at some point. I use it and like it, I just don’t recommend it on the IHS unless people are prepared to deal with it when/if you need to take it off.
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post #394 of 1399
^^ Did rubbing alcohol work at all? When I was applying CLU to the die last night, I made a mistake and wanted to start over. CLU got smeared on the PCB and hardened to where rubbing it didn't really do anything. Isopropyl then saved the day.

You're probably right...maybe gallium does dissolve nickel as well over time and that's why anything metal becomes cement-like.

I hope it doesn't destroy my 380i. I really don't want to polish it because that'll screw up the flatness.
post #395 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr/owned View Post

^^ Did rubbing alcohol work at all? When I was applying CLU to the die last night, I made a mistake and wanted to start over. CLU got smeared on the PCB and hardened to where rubbing it didn't really do anything. Isopropyl then saved the day.

You're probably right...maybe gallium does dissolve nickel as well over time and that's why anything metal becomes cement-like.

I hope it doesn't destroy my 380i. I really don't want to polish it because that'll screw up the flatness.
When wet, alcohol cleans it up, and since the die and pcb are not metal it wipe clean really easy. As I noted in the posts I linked previously, alcohol has little affect once it dries and hardens between to metal surfaces. Metal polish will take it all off, it just takes time. No damage, no sanding or scratching it off, just the metal polish. Nothing wrong with the metal surfaces after cleaning that I ever saw. You can see how clean they get in the pics I posted.
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post #396 of 1399
Well that was frickin easy. I'll update when I have time to upload video, re-OC, etc. Right now it's looking like about a 20C drop biggrin.gif
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post #397 of 1399
Almost makes me wish mine wasn't soldered on... looks like good fun smile.gif
 
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post #398 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by SDBolts619 View Post

Apparently, not everyone is seeing this thread...

Another 3770k killed by a blade:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1378998/i-killed-my-3770k
I'm sorry, but I bet his guy would've been the first to kill a chip using the hammer method as well. These pics are just plain stupid.
I guess fnarfbargle was right, some people just shouldn't go anywhere near a CPU.
post #399 of 1399
Wow this is old news http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2261855 . Nevermind noticed that a block of wood was used. Time for bed frown.gif
Edited by bigmac11 - 4/5/13 at 7:58pm
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post #400 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigmac11 View Post

Wow this is old news http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2261855 . Nevermind noticed that a block of wood was used. Time for bed frown.gif

Very different from this method.

That's more of a combination between the two, lol. Also, if people hit the razor with too much force--like many people have sent their chips flying--you could easily damage the die or pcb.

This method is simpler, though similar to the anandtech method you posted, it seems superior.

Also novel to most people, so I don't think it's a bad idea to rehash it even if it IS an old concept. Not many people were aware of it, obviously.
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