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[How To] Delid your Ivy Bridge CPU with out a Razor Blade! - Page 8

post #71 of 1399
Update: Cost will be < $50 for the fixture to be CNC machined. Will fire up Solidworks and do a model tonight and post a result eventually. What it should look like is the inverse of the IHS carved into a block of wood.

Will be a whole lot safe too, because the top half of the wood block sandwich will also hold the PCB down so it can only shear sideways and not pop up.

Going to be fun biggrin.gif
Edited by dr/owned - 3/29/13 at 4:42pm
post #72 of 1399
Sounds like a great idea...to "uncork" the cpu. lol
Attach the pcb to the vise with rubber or something and uncork with that wood block. That's your plan?
post #73 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by darkphantom View Post

Do you understand why people don't use normal paste?

Because its not as good?

Also after 8 Hours of Prime 95 i am getting temps 71/79/80/76.

This is with 3770K @ 1.36-1.38v @ 4.6GHz HT ON.

Before i was getting at least 93C in just 5 min run. Very happy with the results and cant wait for CLP to come and drop some more and increase the OC and Voltages.
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post #74 of 1399
This thread should be changed to fnarfbargle as the OP, this is clearly the method that he first posted. If anyone gets repped it should be him.
post #75 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by RX7-2nr View Post

This thread should be changed to fnarfbargle as the OP, this is clearly the method that he first posted. If anyone gets repped it should be him.

Well Kuufa spent a good amount of time taking that technique and making it into a very detailed guide with pictures so he definetly deserves REP also. Now newbies can come here and learn how to do this extremely easy method instead of killing their chips with a razor.
post #76 of 1399
Ahahaha, this is genius! I may consider de-lidding now, I've got a vice at work.
post #77 of 1399
Here's the model so far.

Bottom is a 12x4x.75 piece of wood that the chip drops into (upside down).

Top is a 4x4x.74 piece of wood that the PCB will fit into (along with the capacitors around the center).

It's dimensioned right now so only the glue and PCB will be above the wood on the bottom piece.

You can either twist both halves or hit the top with a hammer, assuming the bottom is held firm.



Just have to generate the schematic with all the dimensions labeled and then it'll get CNC-ed.
post #78 of 1399
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RX7-2nr View Post

This thread should be changed to fnarfbargle as the OP, this is clearly the method that he first posted. If anyone gets repped it should be him.

Never said I should get rep instead of him, I credited him in the first sentence, I even asked for permission to write up a guide on it and he said go ahead. thumb.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by dr/owned View Post

Here's the model so far.

Bottom is a 12x4x.75 piece of wood that the chip drops into (upside down).

Top is a 4x4x.74 piece of wood that the PCB will fit into (along with the capacitors around the center).

It's dimensioned right now so only the glue and PCB will be above the wood on the bottom piece.

You can either twist both halves or hit the top with a hammer, assuming the bottom is held firm.



Just have to generate the schematic with all the dimensions labeled and then it'll get CNC-ed.

Looks good! Let us know how it goes!
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post #79 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by RX7-2nr View Post

This thread should be changed to fnarfbargle as the OP, this is clearly the method that he first posted. If anyone gets repped it should be him.

Meh. I only came here to get an idea of how to overclock my 3770 and in the process documented something that i saw as so obvious I wondered why people were wasting time with razor blades.
Now Ive reached my end game and have a stable system I'll probably just move on to the next project and leave the overclocked machine ticking away in the background. I appreciate the "rep", but I'm not looking for it. Nice to have done something a bit different and helped people out in the process.

I did say in my original thread that if you couldn't figure it out from the video I posted then you should probably take up basket weaving or needlepoint, but I also said that anyone was welcome to do anything they liked with it, and that includes drawing it out in enough detail that it helps the average joe hit the wood rather than their thumb. I don't see anybody taking credit for my work. It's my ugly mug in the video. If someone else wants to do it ther way I really don't have a problem with that.

Progress is good, let's not worry about who did what. Heck, the whole concept of de-lidding belongs to someone else, I just did it differently. We're all here to help each other.
post #80 of 1399
I have a question for guys that have done this:

If you had a huge wooden block, do you think you could push the IHS off without using a hammer....human strength alone?

I think my twist strategy in my fixture above might not work...from the original video it sounded like a pretty hard hammer hit.

Anyways, here's the images I sent to the machinist to have cut into wood. There's .1mm of buffer in each of the measurements to allow for minor variations between packages. Will hopefully have it in-hand by end of next week:














Edited by dr/owned - 3/30/13 at 10:07am
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