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[How To] Delid your Ivy Bridge CPU with out a Razor Blade! - Page 10

post #91 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by Qlix View Post

So the hardest part of that was separating the die from the ihs. Absolute cake to cut through the silicone. I am a little surprised it popped off though if that's solder.

I wouldn't say the chip was undamaged. Unless you power it up you have no idea if it's still functional or not.

Solder doesn't physically meld with the die (that would be welding, not soldering). All it does is remove all air from the IHS and the die before solidifying, and it's actually air pressure that is holding the IHS down. If you were in a vacuum the solder would easily pop off the die.
post #92 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by Qlix View Post

So the hardest part of that was separating the die from the ihs. Absolute cake to cut through the silicone. I am a little surprised it popped off though if that's solder.

One concern I have was with the flex in the pcb while prying off the ihs. Should I be concerned with ivy? I'm guessing the only reason there was so much flex was because of the solder

There is no way. The wood gives out first since it softer. You dont even hit it that hard and it comes off. It looks like soft metallic compound. You can remove it but its hard.
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post #93 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr/owned View Post

I wouldn't say the chip was undamaged. Unless you power it up you have no idea if it's still functional or not.

Solder doesn't physically meld with the die (that would be welding, not soldering). All it does is remove all air from the IHS and the die before solidifying, and it's actually air pressure that is holding the IHS down. If you were in a vacuum the solder would easily pop off the die.

Oh I know I have no idea if the chip works yet. Was simply implying that the only hard part, IMO, was the solder. Given that, I think I'll be going after my 3770k biggrin.gif

But what about the flex? That's all I'm really concerned about. I know I didn't nick the die on that one.
post #94 of 1399
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post #95 of 1399
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Qlix View Post

Oh I know I have no idea if the chip works yet. Was simply implying that the only hard part, IMO, was the solder. Given that, I think I'll be going after my 3770k biggrin.gif

But what about the flex? That's all I'm really concerned about. I know I didn't nick the die on that one.

what flex? With Ivy its paste instead of soldier so therefore it will just pop off.
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post #96 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by KuuFA View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Qlix View Post

Oh I know I have no idea if the chip works yet. Was simply implying that the only hard part, IMO, was the solder. Given that, I think I'll be going after my 3770k biggrin.gif

But what about the flex? That's all I'm really concerned about. I know I didn't nick the die on that one.

what flex? With Ivy its paste instead of soldier so therefore it will just pop off.

You have to think in slow motion. When you hit the IHS, the glue is going to resist the force of the impact until it gives up. This takes time however, and because of the "equal an opposite reaction", the force is going to come back and can only go up, flexing the top of the IHS. Kinda like how the hood of a car forms a ^ when you get in a crash.

(Not saying this is a problem, just something that can *potentially* happen)
Edited by dr/owned - 3/30/13 at 8:47pm
post #97 of 1399
That's my question really. I had to really pry off the p4 ihs. I suspect once the cuts are made on the ivy it will just fall off with no flex
post #98 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by Qlix View Post

That's my question really. I had to really pry off the p4 ihs. I suspect once the cuts are made on the ivy it will just fall off with no flex

You don't have to pre-cut the glue to use the hammer method. It'd probably be safer, but not necessary. Also because thermal paste is a whole lot softer than solder, the IVB experience will likely be smoother than the P4 experience. In one of the youtube videos where a guy demonstrated the razor blade method, the PCB flexed more than the IHS, because no razor is as thin as the glue.
post #99 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr/owned View Post

You have to think in slow motion. When you hit the IHS, the glue is going to resist the force of the impact until it gives up. This takes time however, and because of the "equal an opposite reaction", the force is going to come back and can only go up, flexing the top of the IHS. Kinda like how the hood of a car forms a ^ when you get in a crash.

(Not saying this is a problem, just something that can *potentially* happen)
Hmm..

You guys are talking about your hammer and vice methods -.- I'm talking about my little razor blade delid. Blade between the ihs and pcb, the pcb bent and flexed as I pried the ihs off.

Edit: I just realized I'm in the razor less deli thread tongue.gif phone didn't refresh. *** lol
post #100 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by dr/owned View Post

You have to think in slow motion. When you hit the IHS, the glue is going to resist the force of the impact until it gives up. This takes time however, and because of the "equal an opposite reaction", the force is going to come back and can only go up, flexing the top of the IHS. Kinda like how the hood of a car forms a ^ when you get in a crash.

(Not saying this is a problem, just something that can *potentially* happen)


That would be true of you are pulling you are trying to pull the glue(silicone) from the PCB or IHS but instead what you are doing is riping it up. The silicone will give off where its weaker part is.
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