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[How To] Delid your Ivy Bridge CPU with out a Razor Blade! - Page 94

post #931 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by gl0ry View Post

So I need:
(1) Vise
(2) Hammer
(3) CLU Paste
(4) Don't be an idiot
Sound about right? biggrin.gif
I was just going to use my PK-1 under the IHS but it seems that no one will even bother using anything other than CLU. I'm guessing for good reason.
Under the IHS, you definitely want a liquid metal TIM, on top of the IHS use whatever you want.
#4 is key I think wink.gif. Lots of videos in this thread, watching them gives you a better idea of what needs to be done.
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post #932 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by gl0ry View Post

So I need:

(1) Vise
(2) Hammer
(3) CLU Paste
(4) Don't be an idiot

Sound about right? biggrin.gif

I was just going to use my PK-1 under the IHS but it seems that no one will even bother using anything other than CLU. I'm guessing for good reason.

Don't forget your block of wood, it will reduce the chances of damages your chip considerably.
post #933 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by Meleeking View Post

Don't forget your block of wood, it will reduce the chances of damages your chip considerably.

Yeah, Totally forgot to write that down. Block of wood is something I think everyone has haha!
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post #934 of 1399
Tried this method after i got frustrated doing the razor blade. This took me 10 seconds to do on a LGA775 non soldered chip.
Highly recommend to anyone who has a vice vs razor blade.
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post #935 of 1399
any of you fellows lapped your chip after delidding?

curious if you saw an additional decrease of a few or of many degrees and if it was hard to do with just the ihs, also how hard is it to clean the clu off the IHS/.DYE ? biggrin.gif first times for somethings are really not fun especially when could be a costly mistake
  
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post #936 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by INCREDIBLEHULK View Post

any of you fellows lapped your chip after delidding?

curious if you saw an additional decrease of a few or of many degrees and if it was hard to do with just the ihs, also how hard is it to clean the clu off the IHS/.DYE ? biggrin.gif first times for somethings are really not fun especially when could be a costly mistake

Welllllllll..............

That is a rigged question to be honest. You have different situations where it could benefit and others where it will actually increase temps.

By now I think you understand that the IHS is not perfectly flat, and I think you might know that some cooling blocks (water blocks or air heat sinks) are slightly curved to apply more pressure to the IHS.

Both your block AND your IHS need to be flat in order to achieve max performance. If both are flat, then the answer is yes. My friend got about 5 extra degrees difference. If no, then you are like me and have no difference tongue.gif
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post #937 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tjj226 Angel View Post

Welllllllll..............

That is a rigged question to be honest. You have different situations where it could benefit and others where it will actually increase temps.

By now I think you understand that the IHS is not perfectly flat, and I think you might know that some cooling blocks (water blocks or air heat sinks) are slightly curved to apply more pressure to the IHS.

Both your block AND your IHS need to be flat in order to achieve max performance. If both are flat, then the answer is yes. My friend got about 5 extra degrees difference. If no, then you are like me and have no difference tongue.gif

good information mate smile.gif

while i have a raystorm block, i don't know how "flat" it is, i don't think i would want to sand that down biggrin.gif
was under the impression with hopes i could just flatten out the ihs and easily get a few degrees dropped biggrin.gif
  
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post #938 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by srsparky32 View Post

this thread indeed. my new 3770K is like that. stress test it. only way to know. if it passes 85c at 4.7+ then its TIM. if its lower than that then i wouldnt take the risk largely becaue if it is a soldered chip then the die will be ripped off the pcb smile.gif

Surely you can see the rubber protruding around the outside?
I can with my 3570k
 
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post #939 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt-Matt View Post

Surely you can see the rubber protruding around the outside?
I can with my 3570k
Which has nothing to do if the chip is soldered or not. Only the Die would be soldered to the IHS, the black adhesive will be there either way.
But no Ivy Bridge chip is soldered anyway (and neither seems to be Haswell).
If you're still too frightened that it actually may still be soldered, by all means use a razor blade instead. You'll know if you cannot remove the IHS after cutting through all the black adhesive.
post #940 of 1399
Quote:
Originally Posted by INCREDIBLEHULK View Post

any of you fellows lapped your chip after delidding?

curious if you saw an additional decrease of a few or of many degrees and if it was hard to do with just the ihs, also how hard is it to clean the clu off the IHS/.DYE ? biggrin.gif first times for somethings are really not fun especially when could be a costly mistake
Cleaning CLU or CLP is very easy off the die. Just takes some isopropyl alcohol.

Tjj226 gave you excellent info about lapping. I have lapped my IHS after delidding because they were particularly warped, but only one really needed to be done. I don’t think I got any better temps with the other.

I believe all modern coolers are slightly convex to fit better with your IHS because almost all of them are slightly concave. You can confirm this with a straight edge (like a razor blade) and a flashlight. The problem is that the force of clamping your chip down to the mobo actually changes the shape of your IHS.

Therefore, even after lapping your IHS it will not be perfectly flat once you clamp it into the mobo. Also, as already mentioned, lapping the IHS does nothing for your cooler which is most likely slightly convex.

I only recommend lapping if your IHS is particularly warped, extremely convex, or concave – which is unlikely. You can lap your cooler too, but that usually voids the warranty. Basically there is no reason to lap your IHS unless you have confirmed with multiple tests that your IHS to cooler contact is particularly bad and would benefit from lapping.
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