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First Time Water Cooling Setup need help with leak testing!

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 
Hello All,

I've been researching water-cooling for a long time and decided to finally bite the bullet, when my POS Antec Kuhler 620 decided to start whining like a little baby under a normal Prime95 stress test. I was hitting 83-89 on all cores with both the hyper 212 EVO and the Antec 620.

So I returned the cooler to best buy and picked up a Creative SB-Z and the EX360 kit from Performance-PCs. After doing a lot of research I decided to go with this setup over a RX360 since it is a thin rad that I can run a push/pull setup in my Cosmos S Case and still pull very decent temps.

I plan on running just a CPU loop for now, until I save some money to purchase a 7950 waterblock, I will also probably add an additional rad on the bottom or back of the case when I add the VGA block to the loop.

Can anyone please share some tips or tricks on leak testing and general setup.

Also a few questions:
How long should I leak test for to ensure safety of the components?
Is there another way to run the WC system besides the paperclip trick?
Do I need to remove any components before testing?
What is a decent fan controller to use? I would like to do all the fans on the rad, plus two or three on the case.

Thanks,
Anthony
post #2 of 9
Unplug all power connectors except the one to your pump(s)
(This means, no power to CPU, GPU(s) and no power at all to the motherboard. Also no power to Hard Disk Drives, SSDs and DVD-ROM)


Paper clip alternative

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=4057

12,95$

You plug that switch in the PSU 24 PIN instead of an annoying paper clip.





Now since there is no power cable connected, you can proceed to power your PSU with the cord and the switch on the back. Power will only come to the unplugged 24-pin


(You can also put paper towel everywhere in case of leak or to identify leaks, I personnaly don't do this, never)

Instead of the towel method... its my own personnal method: I take a close look at my rig for the couple of first minutes where the leaks can appear and I touch with my finger every fittings or place where there can be a leak and then I touch my lips to sense any water. SO I touch the fitting and then put finger on lip. If ever you find a small dropplet, you finger will not sense it but the lips will. And sometime paper towel will not make REALLY small droplet apparent. I always had great success this way and yes I know its weird but its awsome since the lips are so sensitive to anything




The remote power switch is like jumping a green and Black wire from the PSU 24-pin power. Its by passing the motherboard this way.

So before turning your pumps on using the switch that I linked above (or the paper clip).

  • Fill the reservoir with water.
  • Start pumps (using the switch or paper clip) and water will start to go in loop
  • Turn off Pump.
  • Refill reservoir
  • Start pumps until it empties.
  • NOW do this until the loop fills up.
  • You might need to turn pump on and off for better filling of the loop. (But be sure that the reservoir is never full because it can spill out after turning the pumps off off)

You will get a feel fast on how to fill it. (Always hold a towel with you in case the reservoir spits water biggrin.gif )

After you see the reservoir is almost full and the loop is also full of water. (DO NOT TURN OFF PUMPS OR WATER WILL SPILL OUT BECAUSE RESERVOIR IS STLL OPEN ESPECIALLY IF THE RESERVOIR IS TO FULL, this is due to too many air bubbles in the loop).

Leave the reservoir open and cover the hole just so the air bleed out of it and there is no small particule or dust going inside.

Let the loop run for 12 hours for the air/bubble to come out and if you see the water level in the reservoir decreasing, add a little into it.

When you are done, its important to Close the reservoir before turning the pumps off.

Good luck mate thumb.gif


(PS: I also put the power to my fan controller so if ever I spill a drop of water, ventillation will make everything always dry)
Edited by KaRLiToS - 3/28/13 at 10:59pm
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i7 4930k @ 4.6Ghz Asus Rampage IV Extreme (Koolance Full WB) 2 x GTX 1080ti FE in SLI (EK WATERBLOCK) Corsair Dominator GT 2133 MHz (16GB) 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
3 TB Seagate OCZ Vertex 4 256GB Crucial M4 128GB ADATA SX900 128GB 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
RIVE Koolance Waterblock (VRM and PCH) Feser X-Changer 360 Feser X-Changer 240 Feser X-Changer 480 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
WaterCool MoRA3 Pro with Gentle Typhoon 3 x MCP 655 pumps (With EK top...all serial) 2 x EK FC 1080ti Blocks Windows 7 Ultimate x64 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
Asus ROG Swift PG348Q (3440x1440 @100hz) CrossOver 27Q Led-P Logitech G15 EVGA SuperNova 1600T2 (Titanium) 
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Corsair Obsidian Heavily Modded Logitech G700 RocketFish Speed/Control M-audio AV-40 (Logitech G-35) 
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i7 4930k @ 4.6Ghz Asus Rampage IV Extreme (Koolance Full WB) 2 x GTX 1080ti FE in SLI (EK WATERBLOCK) Corsair Dominator GT 2133 MHz (16GB) 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
3 TB Seagate OCZ Vertex 4 256GB Crucial M4 128GB ADATA SX900 128GB 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
RIVE Koolance Waterblock (VRM and PCH) Feser X-Changer 360 Feser X-Changer 240 Feser X-Changer 480 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
WaterCool MoRA3 Pro with Gentle Typhoon 3 x MCP 655 pumps (With EK top...all serial) 2 x EK FC 1080ti Blocks Windows 7 Ultimate x64 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
Asus ROG Swift PG348Q (3440x1440 @100hz) CrossOver 27Q Led-P Logitech G15 EVGA SuperNova 1600T2 (Titanium) 
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post #3 of 9
I'm no expert, but from I gathered:

Run for 8-12 hours minimum, 24 hours preferred

Your PSU will only work when it's connected to the Motherboard, but if you do that, all the electronics in your system could be damaged if there is a leak. Using a paper clip on the 24 pin MOBO connector will bypass the PSU, allowing your PSU to run without any power going to the water sensitive electrical components.

Use plenty of paper towels around/ below fitting to cover up your electrical components in case there is a leak. This will also help you spot a leaks easier.

If there is a leak, stop everything and drain your tubes and adjust wherever there is a leak and repeat.
You also want to clean off any coolant that is on your electrical components before you start another leak test.
post #4 of 9
Can anyone please share some tips or tricks on leak testing and general setup. when leak testing you can do this 2 ways inside the case are out ! before a leak test go over everything fittings , connections,wires,fluid,EVERYTHING! but when leak testing you want to put a paper towel on the gpu , psu and such everything that could get wet to notice a leak if it was to happen ! when leak testing you want to ONLY! have anything for the water cooling setup plugged in fans on rad,pump, and such DO not plug in mobo,gpu, are anything you want to do this with only the water-cooling stuff first ! and make sure to not let the res go dry are it will ruin the pump after a while ! flip the psu on and wait to res is half way then off then fill and repeat ! if any more questions just ask! good luck! thumb.gif

Also a few questions:
How long should I leak test for to ensure safety of the components? about 10 hours at the max and keep close eye for a few days
Is there another way to run the WC system besides the paperclip trick? staple, are you can buy a jumper that plugs into psu
Do I need to remove any components before testing? this is up to you if you don't make sure the fluid is non conductive !!!!!
What is a decent fan controller to use? I would like to do all the fans on the rad, plus two or three on the case. lamptron make excellent ones!

=ROG
post #5 of 9
People suggesting paper clip alternatives i just want to point out that the xspc kits come with a 24 pin jumper. Cycle power on the PSU with the switch at the back.

OP: don't have a heart attack with the water and stuff. Use distilled water as its non conductive, if a leak pops up flip power supply off and check the leak to see if a simple adjustment can be made without a drain down.

Again don't freak out. Electronics aren't hurt by water alone they need electricity to go with that water to be hurt. I've soaked my video cards a few times before going with compression fittings. Just adjusted my clamps, changed the paper towels that got wet and went about my business till i was satisfied, powering back up with only enough time in between to finish assembly or do some wire management.
post #6 of 9
Thread Starter 
Thanks everyone for the advice everyone! Can't wait to get this rig under water, since my temps are so outrageous for the CPU. I have a 920 (C0) and W3520 (D0) so I'll probably keep the W3520 even though it runs a bit warmer it takes less voltage to keep stable. Hopefully I'll be able to spot a decent i5 3570k or i7 3770k in the near future to continue my upgrade.

Anyone have any other suggestions besides lamptron fan controllers?

@Karlitos: what fan controller are you using I think I missed it in your build log.
post #7 of 9
Lamptron FC-8

I have 22 fans on it.

wink.gif
Quad Damage
(24 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i7 4930k @ 4.6Ghz Asus Rampage IV Extreme (Koolance Full WB) 2 x GTX 1080ti FE in SLI (EK WATERBLOCK) Corsair Dominator GT 2133 MHz (16GB) 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
3 TB Seagate OCZ Vertex 4 256GB Crucial M4 128GB ADATA SX900 128GB 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
RIVE Koolance Waterblock (VRM and PCH) Feser X-Changer 360 Feser X-Changer 240 Feser X-Changer 480 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
WaterCool MoRA3 Pro with Gentle Typhoon 3 x MCP 655 pumps (With EK top...all serial) 2 x EK FC 1080ti Blocks Windows 7 Ultimate x64 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
Asus ROG Swift PG348Q (3440x1440 @100hz) CrossOver 27Q Led-P Logitech G15 EVGA SuperNova 1600T2 (Titanium) 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Corsair Obsidian Heavily Modded Logitech G700 RocketFish Speed/Control M-audio AV-40 (Logitech G-35) 
  hide details  
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Quad Damage
(24 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i7 4930k @ 4.6Ghz Asus Rampage IV Extreme (Koolance Full WB) 2 x GTX 1080ti FE in SLI (EK WATERBLOCK) Corsair Dominator GT 2133 MHz (16GB) 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
3 TB Seagate OCZ Vertex 4 256GB Crucial M4 128GB ADATA SX900 128GB 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
RIVE Koolance Waterblock (VRM and PCH) Feser X-Changer 360 Feser X-Changer 240 Feser X-Changer 480 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
WaterCool MoRA3 Pro with Gentle Typhoon 3 x MCP 655 pumps (With EK top...all serial) 2 x EK FC 1080ti Blocks Windows 7 Ultimate x64 
MonitorMonitorKeyboardPower
Asus ROG Swift PG348Q (3440x1440 @100hz) CrossOver 27Q Led-P Logitech G15 EVGA SuperNova 1600T2 (Titanium) 
CaseMouseMouse PadAudio
Corsair Obsidian Heavily Modded Logitech G700 RocketFish Speed/Control M-audio AV-40 (Logitech G-35) 
  hide details  
Reply
post #8 of 9
got to love lamptron LOL
post #9 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by KaRLiToS View Post

Lamptron FC-8

I have 22 fans on it.

wink.gif

Thanks Karlitos for the interesting way to detect leaks. I will try it on my new loop thumb.gif
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