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Modular M/M custom cable guide?

post #1 of 20
Thread Starter 
Does anyone have a guide on how these cables are actaully wired?

I bought an 8850 watt gold OCZ psu and I am doing my own custom cables but as it turns out I can't just wire them straight across (or can i???) So what I thought I would do was copy the cable that comes with the OCZ well upon doing that this is what I ran into...




I am honestly at a total loss, I don't know when or what this resistors are doing here.... I just need some feedback from more of the experienced custom cable community. I've done full systems but this is beyond my experience..

Any help is appreciated.
post #2 of 20
Those are capacitors, they help to smooth voltage ripple, but are not actually needed for regular operation. Although if you're going for extreme overclock they will help stability.
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post #3 of 20
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by WiSK View Post

Those are capacitors, they help to smooth voltage ripple, but are not actually needed for regular operation. Although if you're going for extreme overclock they will help stability.

Oh okay, I dont need them then. But I still need to figure out how to wire my custom 24 pin for this. It seems to be very different with wire splices and some that dont even have pins...
post #4 of 20
I can't see from your pictures exactly how your PSU connector is arranged, but it's normal that they are not 1-to-1 with the motherboard. Pretty much the only PSUs which have 1-to-1 pinout are Silverstone.

You need to make a drawing of the PSU end of the connector, and write down which type of wire goes in each pin. Black=ground, Yellow=12V, Red=5V, Orange=3.3V, Blue=-12V, Purple=5V_standby, Green=Power_on, Grey=Power_OK. Then look at the motherboard end (see pic below) and route the wires from your PSU to end up as follows. They obviously don't need to be physically those colours, you can make them all black or white or pink, as long as your ground pins on the PSU side are connecting only to ground pins on the motherboard side, the 12V pins to the 12V pins, etc, it's okay.



One exception is "double wires". If there's any double crimped wires going into the motherboard connector, check to see whether they end up in two different positions at the PSU end. You can see in the FAQ and video guides how to deal with these, but double wires need to follow the stock cable pinout exactly.
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post #5 of 20
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by WiSK View Post

I can't see from your pictures exactly how your PSU connector is arranged, but it's normal that they are not 1-to-1 with the motherboard. Pretty much the only PSUs which have 1-to-1 pinout are Silverstone.

You need to make a drawing of the PSU end of the connector, and write down which type of wire goes in each pin. Black=ground, Yellow=12V, Red=5V, Orange=3.3V, Blue=-12V, Purple=5V_standby, Green=Power_on, Grey=Power_OK. Then look at the motherboard end (see pic below) and route the wires from your PSU to end up as follows. They obviously don't need to be physically those colours, you can make them all black or white or pink, as long as your ground pins on the PSU side are connecting only to ground pins on the motherboard side, the 12V pins to the 12V pins, etc, it's okay.



One exception is "double wires". If there's any double crimped wires going into the motherboard connector, check to see whether they end up in two different positions at the PSU end. You can see in the FAQ and video guides how to deal with these, but double wires need to follow the stock cable pinout exactly.


Oh joy... i think I need a new PSU for my build then because I just spent all this time sleeving.... I have them all already sleeved but double wires are going to be a pain...
post #6 of 20
Thread Starter 
Hazah! OCZ replied and told me a straight wired connection would work just fine. Just that the caps would optimize performance.
post #7 of 20
Quote:
Originally Posted by WiSK View Post

Those are capacitors, they help to smooth voltage ripple, but are not actually needed for regular operation. Although if you're going for extreme overclock they will help stability.

proof.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by DiamondCut View Post

Hazah! OCZ replied and told me a straight wired connection would work just fine. Just that the caps would optimize performance.

yessir.gif
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post #8 of 20
I cant believe they even said that haha.

But yea, most of the time they can be removed. I know of quite a few who have and no issues have occurred.

But on the same note, if you intend on pushing the psu to its limit you may want to think of a different one with more overhead. thumb.gif
post #9 of 20
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lutro0 View Post

I cant believe they even said that haha.

But yea, most of the time they can be removed. I know of quite a few who have and no issues have occurred.

But on the same note, if you intend on pushing the psu to its limit you may want to think of a different one with more overhead. thumb.gif

Its an 850, my system hits only 650 on load. My pump is running at 45% the whole time since Im running Ice Dragon Nanofluid it works best at lower RPMs. And a Tripple 80mm thick 120m rad.

Im glad its a straight wire because It would look more cluttered if I were crossing wires...
Edited by DiamondCut - 4/3/13 at 10:05am
post #10 of 20
Thread Starter 
Grrrrr they replied again... news is I cannot straight pin it from the PSU only to the ATX I can.
Quote:
You cannot wire the cables straight between the connectors. The part that connects to your motherboard is standard ATX. The part that connects to the PSU is rearranged. You will have to use the pinout I sent in the last message - there will be some wires twisted around a little.
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