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1st Water Cooling loop, got questions

post #1 of 14
Thread Starter 
Going to do a liquid cooling loop in my pc soon, but never done one before.
My PC.
Cosmos II Case
Asus z77 Sabertooth mobo - won't be cooling it
i5-3570k
gtx 590 - will be replaced with GTX Titan hydro coper or going to wait for GTX 790, havn't decided yet.

I know the very basics.
My loop will be res.>pump>240 radiator>cpu>360 radiator>res., with EVGA Titan hydro coper/GTX 790 added when it releases.
My questions are. What is a good brand/model for d5 pump, radiator and a cpu block for i5-3570k? Which ones are best in your opinion. Within a reasonable price.
Is Res+Pump combo any good? or is it better to go stand alone?
What tubing size is most common and best to work with?
I am assuming you need fitting compressions on both sides of the tube on all the tubes?
Whats quick disconnects used for? Do i need them?

Last but not least, how to add drainage with a valve to this whole thing? =]
Sorry for so many questions, but want to get this right.

This is how approximately i want my Cosmos to look like when im done with it.
Minus the mobo cooling.
post #2 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doxy View Post

What tubing size is most common and best to work with?
I am assuming you need fitting compressions on both sides of the tube on all the tubes?
Whats quick disconnects used for? Do i need them?

Last but not least, how to add drainage with a valve to this whole thing? =]
Sorry for so many questions, but want to get this right.]

1/2" ID tubing will have the least flow resistance.
Yes, fittings on both ends.
Quick disconnects come in two types, ones that disconnect and just leave the tubing open and ones that disconnect, but shut off too. The ones that shut off are called "no leak" disconnects.Either type are usually used if you anticipate disconnecting watercooling parts often for whatever reason (replacement, upgrading, etc.).

A marble stuck into the end of tubing works great for a drain valve, a fill valve too.
Edited by billbartuska - 3/30/13 at 8:18pm
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post #3 of 14
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Case Labs th10
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post #4 of 14
ahh that cosmos case, just bear in mind one issue I found with it is that depending on your motherboard's heatsinks at the top you can only fit a slim rad at the top like 30mm or so with only pull fans above it. tubing size used to matter but not much these days, if you go either 3/8" inner diameter or 1/2" inner diameter you should be good, tubing with thicker walls can do tighter curves without kinking.

Quick disconnects seem to have a fairly noticeable effect on flowrate and as billbartuska said you really don't need them unless you are going to be changing parts a lot.
You will need two compression fittings for each part and a few extra in case. All different brands of D5 are the same thing, they all use the same Laing D5 pump mechanism, I would just go with one that is cheaper, they are basically just rebrands Most people get XSPC or swiftech. I would look at XSPC, EK or Heatkiller for blocks they are all pretty good.

It looks like that guy is using Mayhems Aurora coolant, It's a showy sort of coolant not good to use it long term, I would just get mayhems Red X1 coolant, no need to add anything else to it.

For a drain valve you can use a T connector and put a small valve like the bitspower ones on one end of the T and that would be it really quite simple to do.
here is my terrible paint diagram of what I'm talking about:

just put in in the lowest part of your loop and shove it in the corner of your case then just open the valve to drain it.
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post #5 of 14
I see some good info already posted smile.gif one thing to keep in mind is when you use bigger tubing, you lose pressure.
Smaller tubing will give less flow but more pressure while bigger tube will give more flow and less pressure
What many people do is use 7/16" 5/8" tubing to get a good flow+pressure while having a tighter fit on 1/2" barbs
Best of luck to you mate:thumb:
  
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post #6 of 14
1/2 inch tubing will work good in a case that size. As far as the res/pump combo that is all personal preference. I run a Koolance RP452X2 which is a dual bay res/pump combo with 2 D5's. Also use a fillport in the top of the case and a T fitting in the bottom of the case with a quick disconnect fitting to make it easier when draining the loop.
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post #7 of 14
1/2 fittings and 7/16 tubes. d5 all the same i got a Detroit thermal top for pump, i like copper look so i got heat killer for cpu and a 3 pound copper block for gpu....

no one mentond dont use color dies/coolent in loop, they do damage components just get color tubes, get pt nuke or kill coil for bacteria and distilled water. have res higher then pump.my drain is on res with a fill port . i use that for fill port too. never let pump run dry/never suck air.

do 12 hour leak test with out no components hooked up shake case to get out air bubbles.

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post #8 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by INCREDIBLEHULK View Post

What many people do is use 7/16" 5/8" tubing to get a good flow+pressure
Huh?
I think you're confusing pressure and resistance. It's resistance that you don't want. Lower resistance results in higher flow rates. It's the pump that produces pressure. That pressure results in a flow of the liquid. The more resistance there is to that flow the lower the flow rate will be.
Edited by billbartuska - 3/31/13 at 6:30am
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2 X Samsung 915N Ducky Shine III, Blue Cherry/Blue LEDs PCP&C 1kw Lian Li PC-71 (W/Window) 
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post #9 of 14
Thread Starter 
Thanx for all the advices and replies, you all really helping me out here =]
Great advice about that T shape fitting.
post #10 of 14
evga hydro-copper blocks dont perform well. buy an evga titan if thats what you want then buy a heatkiller block and backplate for it. it will save you a few dollars and give you better performance.

*EDIT* also for you guys discussing tube sizes, fittings are necked down anyway to be a g1/4 size. bneg said they neck down to 3/8"
Edited by pc-illiterate - 3/31/13 at 8:21am
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