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Probably not a good idea, maybe someone has experience with his?

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 
Hey everybody,

Long time lurker, first time poster here. Anyhow I'm testing this right now on a small scale but wondering if anyone has any experience with running this for an extended period of time. Basically what I've gathered from people sleeving their water tubes with compression fittings is that they file down the compression ring in order to get it to fit.

I figured I'd go the other way so I outfitted a pump and res I had laying around with 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD fittings and hooked up 1/2" ID x 5/8" OD tubing. Some of the fittings have sleeving attached and others don't (basically cycling water from pump to res). So far no leaks after a few hours however even on the fittings with sleeving the "compression" aspect is barely there. I'm using XSPC fittings, the barbs are on there pretty tight and pulling the tubes out is tough. I even repeatedly removed one end over and over to mess up the tubing and that hasn't leaked yet either.

I'm mainly worried about slow leaks over time with something like this. Obviously vanity isn't worth hundreds of dollars in fried parts but just wondering if someone has gone about this in a similar way.
post #2 of 9
I don't know if anyone has, but I'd run at least 24 hours leak test before powering up your pc to be extra safe. If after 24 hours there is NO signs of leaks, then you should be fine but i'd still check from time to time to be safe.
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post #3 of 9
Thread Starter 
Yea I would definitely run this for 24 hours before doing anything. It's just one of those situations where I don't want to waste the time or material if it's a completely fruitless endeavor.
post #4 of 9
I have no experience with sleeving and compression fittings, however, I will ask a question.

Is it really that tight that the sleeving adds enough bulk to prevent the fitting from working? Doesn't it get squeezed into the tubing?
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post #5 of 9
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt Proton View Post

I have no experience with sleeving and compression fittings, however, I will ask a question.

Is it really that tight that the sleeving adds enough bulk to prevent the fitting from working? Doesn't it get squeezed into the tubing?

It's the opposite. There's barely any bulk. It's basically going against my instinct as there's no resistance at all and I can screw the cap of the fitting all the way down. When I use the XSPC flex tubing of the same OD as the compression fitting, after a couple of turns, the fitting wont budge and there will still be a gap so theres the idea that it's as tight as it can be. Here it seems like I'm just leaving tubing on the barb even though it's damn hard to pull it off. It still hasn't leaked but I did notice an air bubble between one of the barbs and the tubing.
post #6 of 9
I'd test with a heat load. Tubing being at ambient might be hard to pull off, but a folding or gaming computer that is constantly heating will warm up the tubing and that may be when you start getting problems.


I've personally sleeved my tubes with compression fittings, and I used a dremel to slightly increase the diameter to fit the sleeving.


Here's a tut I made for sleeving with SS braided sleeving.
Sleeving tut (Click to show)
Alright, basic tools and supplies.

- Dremel
- Glove(s) (with a plastic layering of sorts.)
- Tubing
- Steel Sleeving (TOS prohibits me from linking the e-bay where the item is sold I think. So google: STAINLESS STEEL OVERBRAID SLEEVING HOSE 19mm)
-ROTARY Compression fittings (as you'll need to install the tubes once they are complete)
450



First things first, you'll want to deremel the inside of this ring. That's without damaging the threads, I screwed two up in the whole fit. So if possible, get a couple extra fittings so you have extra rings.
450



Once you have those done, tape the end of your sleeving, dremel one end to have a straightcut ( (or as straight as possible). The tape on ALL cuts will help avoid a little fraying, and you want to avoid as much of it as possible for a nice job.
450



Once you've cut the end off, take your measurements for the next cut. The next step is to enter your tubing into the sleeving (gloves come in handy as of this step). Stretch the sleeving tight over the tube and tape it down. Painters tape works rather poorly, duck tape leaves residue (that metal sleeving warms up with you fiddling about with it, bad with duck tape) electric tape isn't that bad but you can't see where you have to cut. So I resorted to a marker for the cut line and painters tape, if anyone has some good tape they know will work speak up!
450



Once it's cut to perfection (lol) push the tubing in about 3" to 4".
450



Take the sleeve and your fitting. Hold the sleeving to compress it a little (round if possible as the steel can deform if you apply too much pressure). It'll make it easier to get the rings on the sleeving and avoid some unwanted fraying.
450



Put BOTH compression fittings over the sleeving, as once one is on you WILL NOT be able to get the other ring over the tubing without fraying the sleeving. If you have an end that might fray or caught in the compression rings threads, start screwing/unscrewing the ring over the sleeving. It'll get over it better without causing as much fraying.
450



Now you want to put the compression fitting into the tube, pull the sleeving over to the edge of the tube (not over the fittings threads!!). Bring the ring to the fitting and crew the fitting into the ring. That way the sleeving doesn't move and you can tighten it down.
450

450

See that glove, it avoids PURPLE fingers. Well it helps. That and the prickely end od the sleeving sometime startles you when it gets you good. Not fun.
450
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post #7 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by ErWarSuperstar View Post

It's the opposite. There's barely any bulk. It's basically going against my instinct as there's no resistance at all and I can screw the cap of the fitting all the way down. When I use the XSPC flex tubing of the same OD as the compression fitting, after a couple of turns, the fitting wont budge and there will still be a gap so theres the idea that it's as tight as it can be. Here it seems like I'm just leaving tubing on the barb even though it's damn hard to pull it off. It still hasn't leaked but I did notice an air bubble between one of the barbs and the tubing.

Not what I meant. I meant with the 1/2 " X 3/4" tubing.
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post #8 of 9
Thread Starter 
Oh in that case it's fine if I don't sleeve the 3/4" OD tubing. If I sleeve it you can't bring the cap to the thread since there's too much extra material.
post #9 of 9
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rognin View Post

I'd test with a heat load. Tubing being at ambient might be hard to pull off, but a folding or gaming computer that is constantly heating will warm up the tubing and that may be when you start getting problems.


I've personally sleeved my tubes with compression fittings, and I used a dremel to slightly increase the diameter to fit the sleeving.


Here's a tut I made for sleeving with SS braided sleeving.
Sleeving tut (Click to show)
Alright, basic tools and supplies.

- Dremel
- Glove(s) (with a plastic layering of sorts.)
- Tubing
- Steel Sleeving (TOS prohibits me from linking the e-bay where the item is sold I think. So google: STAINLESS STEEL OVERBRAID SLEEVING HOSE 19mm)
-ROTARY Compression fittings (as you'll need to install the tubes once they are complete)
450



First things first, you'll want to deremel the inside of this ring. That's without damaging the threads, I screwed two up in the whole fit. So if possible, get a couple extra fittings so you have extra rings.
450



Once you have those done, tape the end of your sleeving, dremel one end to have a straightcut ( (or as straight as possible). The tape on ALL cuts will help avoid a little fraying, and you want to avoid as much of it as possible for a nice job.
450



Once you've cut the end off, take your measurements for the next cut. The next step is to enter your tubing into the sleeving (gloves come in handy as of this step). Stretch the sleeving tight over the tube and tape it down. Painters tape works rather poorly, duck tape leaves residue (that metal sleeving warms up with you fiddling about with it, bad with duck tape) electric tape isn't that bad but you can't see where you have to cut. So I resorted to a marker for the cut line and painters tape, if anyone has some good tape they know will work speak up!
450



Once it's cut to perfection (lol) push the tubing in about 3" to 4".
450



Take the sleeve and your fitting. Hold the sleeving to compress it a little (round if possible as the steel can deform if you apply too much pressure). It'll make it easier to get the rings on the sleeving and avoid some unwanted fraying.
450



Put BOTH compression fittings over the sleeving, as once one is on you WILL NOT be able to get the other ring over the tubing without fraying the sleeving. If you have an end that might fray or caught in the compression rings threads, start screwing/unscrewing the ring over the sleeving. It'll get over it better without causing as much fraying.
450



Now you want to put the compression fitting into the tube, pull the sleeving over to the edge of the tube (not over the fittings threads!!). Bring the ring to the fitting and crew the fitting into the ring. That way the sleeving doesn't move and you can tighten it down.
450

450

See that glove, it avoids PURPLE fingers. Well it helps. That and the prickely end od the sleeving sometime startles you when it gets you good. Not fun.
450

Awesome guide. Thanks so much. I think I'm going to go sleeveless until next maintenance day (the test loop didn't leak but I don't want to take unnecessary chances). I'm gonna file them down when I tear the thing down for cleaning.
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