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Which cooling type is better.

post #1 of 46
Thread Starter 
I am currently on air cooling.
I am thinking of upgrading , and i found that there are several types of cooling.

Water Cooling (Liquid Cooling)
Peltiers / TEC
Phase Change
Dry Ice/ Liquid Nitrogen

How much is the performance difference between each one of those , and how about there maintenance and installation?
Also regarding the water cooling (Liquid Cooling) , I was able to find out that even a non-conductive liquid coolant will become conductive after a while. and that distilled water is considered a good coolant.
Any advices regarding this?
ty,
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post #2 of 46
This is a can of worms waiting.

The best value for money has to be air cooling on a stock cooler. Cost nothing and allows it to work with in its limits.


Everything else is epeen biggrin.gif

As for water cooling and it being conductive, why worry, done correctly there should be no fear.
post #3 of 46
With your CPU i would go H100i at least. Everything above that is just bragging rights or for Record Breaking Benchmarks, in which i would recommend DICE.

A custom loop would be a good middle ground between the H100i and DICE, but will cost $150-$400 for a good setup. Plus you can put the Radiator of the Custom WC loop anywhere, where as the H100i has short tubes.
 
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post #4 of 46
Has short tubes and the liquid inside will evaporate eventually.
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post #5 of 46
I think anything beyond water cooling is basically just for real enthusiasts who want crazy benches. If you want to upgrade, just go to water cooling.
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post #6 of 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by BinZz View Post

I am currently on air cooling.
I am thinking of upgrading , and i found that there are several types of cooling.

Water Cooling (Liquid Cooling)
Peltiers / TEC
Phase Change
Dry Ice/ Liquid Nitrogen

How much is the performance difference between each one of those , and how about there maintenance and installation?
Also regarding the water cooling (Liquid Cooling) , I was able to find out that even a non-conductive liquid coolant will become conductive after a while. and that distilled water is considered a good coolant.
Any advices regarding this?
ty,

depending on your budget,

under $100 budget, air cooling
under $1000 budget liquid cooling
under $2000 budget + $10 per month electric bill, TEC cooling or PD cooling
under $10,000 budget + $1000 per month coolent/repairs/etc... liquid nitrogen cooling biggrin.gif
post #7 of 46
Don't forget, you can always upgrade from air to water later on. If you are pressed for money now just get a good air cooling case and CPU cooler and trust me, you will still be able to overclock quite a bit.
post #8 of 46
Unless you're going for a real watercooling setup with a 2x120mm or 2x140mm rad, go for high end air (Phanteks PH-TC14PE/Thermalright Silver arrow/ Noctua NH-D14 / Deepcool Assassin / Be Quiet Dark Rock Pro 2).

Unless you're pushing > 1.4V... no need for more.

edit:


http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/5231/corsair-hydro-series-h90-aio-cpu-cooler-review/index8.html


http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/corsair_h90_review,12.html


http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/corsair_hydro_h90/4.htm


http://www.eteknix.com/corsair-hydro-series-h90-liquid-cpu-cooler-review/5/


http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/water2.0-extreme-kraken-x40-hydro-h90-elc120,3434-13.html
Edited by AlphaC - 4/1/13 at 6:30pm
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post #9 of 46
Quote:
Originally Posted by PimpSkyline View Post

With your CPU i would go H100i at least. Everything above that is just bragging rights or for Record Breaking Benchmarks, in which i would recommend DICE.

A custom loop would be a good middle ground between the H100i and DICE, but will cost $150-$400 for a good setup. Plus you can put the Radiator of the Custom WC loop anywhere, where as the H100i has short tubes.

although it does cost more i still say go for the h220 shows significant improvement over h100i imo
Quote:
Originally Posted by Babbalabba View Post

Don't forget, you can always upgrade from air to water later on. If you are pressed for money now just get a good air cooling case and CPU cooler and trust me, you will still be able to overclock quite a bit.
+1

Quote:
Originally Posted by AlphaC View Post

Unless you're going for a real watercooling setup, go for high end air (Phanteks PH-TC14PE/Thermalright Silver arrow/ Noctua NH-D14 / Deepcool Assassin / Be Quiet Dark Rock Pro 2).

Unless you're pushing > 1.4V... no need for more.

but what if he wants silence?? or the good looks( not saying all look good, but lets face it we are on ocn 99% of members want good looking pcs) .

one thing i will add about phase change of any type
1 adds aton to your electric bill. just as long as you know this, does not matter tec phase change however it will vary depending on which you pick.
2 have to insulate against condensation
tecs use energy to create heat/cool (hot on one side and cold on other side) and are usually used with a water cooling setup ( have to remove heat from the hot side of unit )
phase change uses a a/c to create cold. however again the heat has to go somewhere ( look at the ac on your house the condensing unit outside) will always creat more heat then cooling and you will need to take the heat outside ( unless you really want that in your house ), is like adding another ac to your power bill, and is extremely noisy.

most people do either of these for heavy to extreme ocing

dry ice/liquid helium and liquid nitrogen are not types of cooling for 24/7 pc usage
- only for benching/ EXTREME ocing and will not be used for 24/7 computing
- i will assume you will not be doing this assuming it will be for 24/7 usage
Quote:
Originally Posted by BinZz View Post

I am currently on air cooling.
How much is the performance difference between each one of those , and how about there maintenance and installation?
Also regarding the water cooling (Liquid Cooling) , I was able to find out that even a non-conductive liquid coolant will become conductive after a while. and that distilled water is considered a good coolant.
Any advices regarding this?
ty,

all coolants are conductive once installed in a system. here is proof

the h220 is serviceable by you unlike the h100i

however swiftech says you will be fine for 3 years without topoff.

all custom water cooling systems are more of a hobby then just a method of cooling. really if you are looking for a set it and forget it method, that is air cooling.

water cooling ( full custom ) . you have to change out your coolant or top it off depending on what you use. make sure there is nothing growing in there, may have to clean out blocks. watch your pump ( most people use their mobo to monitor rpms and use the alarm built into their bios{pump fails pc makes noise or shuts down }).
Edited by Mega Man - 4/1/13 at 6:42pm
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post #10 of 46
Well if you have a SFF case then it's a different story, then the H60 2013 edition , H90, or NZXT Kraken X40 might be worth a look.

High end air tends to be quieter than CLC anyway.


http://www.eteknix.com/corsair-hydro-series-h90-liquid-cpu-cooler-review/6/


http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/water2.0-extreme-kraken-x40-hydro-h90-elc120,3434-13.html


http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/corsair_h90_review,10.html



http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/5231/corsair-hydro-series-h90-aio-cpu-cooler-review/index9.html
Edited by AlphaC - 4/1/13 at 7:44pm
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