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post #21 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by cam51037 View Post

80C on a CPU is really high, especially that it isn't OCed. Even though it's an older i7 with a 130W TDP, it should not be this warm.

As for the idling temperatures, the water is only getting the idle heat from the GPU, which is a very little amount of heat, it shouldn't be heating it up insane amounts.

But it will heat up, and because you only have 1 120mm radiator, the heat is trapped in the loop for a long time. The liquid is saturated temperature wise, and with so little radiator capacity to dissipate it, it takes a very long time to get rid of the heat.

Bottom line is, you need more radiator capacity. At the VERY least 2 120mm radiators worth, if not 3 to properly be able to dissipate the heat from that hot first generation i7 and video card.

Personally, since you are already mounting a 120mm fan outside the case, I would get new or used 360 radiator and mount that outside instead.



Or if you want, pick up a 200mm radiator (like people have done for a HAF912 case) and put it up top ... AND ... put your 120mm radiator somewhere (on the inside back where the exhaust port is or outside somewhere).

post #22 of 41
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 47 Knucklehead View Post

But it will heat up, and because you only have 1 120mm radiator, the heat is trapped in the loop for a long time. The liquid is saturated temperature wise, and with so little radiator capacity to dissipate it, it takes a very long time to get rid of the heat.

Bottom line is, you need more radiator capacity. At the VERY least 2 120mm radiators worth, if not 3 to properly be able to dissipate the heat from that hot first generation i7 and video card.

Personally, since you are already mounting a 120mm fan outside the case, I would get new or used 360 radiator and mount that outside instead.



Or if you want, pick up a 200mm radiator (like people have done for a HAF912 case) and put it up top ... AND ... put your 120mm radiator somewhere (on the inside back where the exhaust port is or outside somewhere).

I think you showed me those pictures in a previous thread when I was talking about putting a Rosewill Thor V2 case underwater.

I like the idea in the first picture, that would work better than the second, because the case doesn't have a fan above the motherboard, and it's solid on the top, as in no holes.

What's the piece called that's holding the rad to the back of the case in the first picture? It's really neat.
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post #23 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by cam51037 View Post

I think you showed me those pictures in a previous thread when I was talking about putting a Rosewill Thor V2 case underwater.

I like the idea in the first picture, that would work better than the second, because the case doesn't have a fan above the motherboard, and it's solid on the top, as in no holes.

What's the piece called that's holding the rad to the back of the case in the first picture? It's really neat.


Koolance Radiator Mounting Bracket with Quick-Release

ncix.ca has them as well as other stores in Canada.


But in all honesty, since it looks like (by that picture) that there is already a 120mm fan on the back side of the case, you might just be able to get 4 1" or 2" M-F Hex standoffs with 6-32 threads (so they fit in your radiator) and put them on a 360 radiator, then bolt it to the chassis from the inside with screws.

http://www.mouser.com/search/refine.aspx?Ntk=P_MarCom&Ntt=160139739
Edited by 47 Knucklehead - 4/4/13 at 8:31am
post #24 of 41
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 47 Knucklehead View Post

Koolance Radiator Mounting Bracket with Quick-Release

ncix.ca has them as well as other stores in Canada.


But in all honesty, since it looks like (by that picture) that there is already a 120mm fan on the back side of the case, you might just be able to get 4 1" or 2" M-F Hex standoffs with 6-32 threads (so they fit in your radiator) and put them on a 360 radiator, then bolt it to the chassis from the inside with screws.

http://www.mouser.com/search/refine.aspx?Ntk=P_MarCom&Ntt=160139739
Some case modding would need to be done to fit a 360MM rad right onto the chasis, it wouldn't mount nicely at all. Right now the 120MM rad is mounted where the exhaust fan usually mounts to. So the fan is outside the case, and then the radiator gets the fan air blown through it (obviously).
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post #25 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by cam51037 View Post

Some case modding would need to be done to fit a 360MM rad right onto the chasis, it wouldn't mount nicely at all. Right now the 120MM rad is mounted where the exhaust fan usually mounts to. So the fan is outside the case, and then the radiator gets the fan air blown through it (obviously).

What make/model case is it?

Any possibility that you could mount the radiator on the side of the case, say on the motherboard tray side?
post #26 of 41
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 47 Knucklehead View Post

What make/model case is it?

Any possibility that you could mount the radiator on the side of the case, say on the motherboard tray side?
It's a Lian Li, but honestly I can't find the case anywhere on their site. It's an older case, probably 2-3 years old, and a mid-size ATX with an intake and exhaust fan, and 4x 5.25 inch drive bays.

Putting the rad on the back side of the case might work, but I'd still need the rad mounting bracket so it would get some airflow.
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post #27 of 41
Oh, I overlooked the fact that it's not overclocked. tongue.gif My bad!
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post #28 of 41
Thread Starter 
Alright, I'm putting together a list of things that need upgrading in this computer and here's what I have so far:
1x Radiator mounting bracket ($50)
1x 240MM/360MM radiator ($40-65 used here on OCN)
2x/3x 120MM fans - going to research my fans before putting a model here
Possibly some extra piping for the rad, maybe the existing piping will stretch to the rad

Any other recommendations? I'm trying to keep this as cheap as possible, and currently the rad mounting bracket seems like an absolute gouge to me, $50 for a little adjustable bracket. I wonder if someone could mod something up to work as one...
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post #29 of 41
Well, this is completely optional, but it might be worth considering.

Since you are externally mounting your radiator and that mount can be disconnected, you might want to consider a pair of Koolance QDC's (Quick Disconnects). They would allow you to remove your radiator from your computer without having to totally drain it and will aid you in your ability to drain it when you do want to.

As far as the bracket goes, you could just go with what I suggested earlier and get some 6-32 threaded Male to Female Hex stand offs. Then you could just attach the radiator to the case permanently. You could even just cut some thicker aluminum round stock from Home Depot and thread it yourself and get some screws to attach it all together. The Standoffs are like $1 to $1.50 each, and you should be able to get some 6-32 screws 8 for a $1.50. Aluminum stock is like $5 a foot and that is WAY more than you need. You might be able to rent a 6-32 tap or you can buy one for like $6 for just the 6-32 tap or like $25 for a whole kit of various sizes on Amazon.



I took a spare 360 radiator and some standoffs I had laying around (they were 4-40 threads, not 6-32 so they too small, but same concept) to give you an idea of what I'm talking about.

With the Male to Female 6-32 stand offs, you just screw the male side into the 6-32 holes of the radiator at 4 or more points where the fans would attach, then put the radiator up against the back of the case where the 120mm rear case fan is, and using 6-32 screws, attach it to the back of the case using the existing holes.

Personally, I would try to use 6 or 8 stand offs for more rigidity, but as long as you aren't going to hang off it, you should be ok.

Oh, and if you get store bought 6-32 stand offs, you might want to go with steel ones and not aluminum. They won't break as easy.


I also included 4 2" round standoffs that I made that are Female to Female. They will allow you to get the radiator further away from the case and give you a little beefier mount. Only problem is, you will have to screw a 6-32 screw in from the back side of your radiator mount, which will be a little more tricky, but doable.
Edited by 47 Knucklehead - 4/5/13 at 8:41am
post #30 of 41
Thread Starter 
Well, today I found something that may have given the loop a few extra degrees.

The CPU voltage was set to 1.35V, which is way too high for stock volts and clocks I thought, so I reset it to default and now the volts are going anywhere from 0.99V to 1.2V, instead of a solid 1.35V.

Going to run a Prime95 test and see how the numbers differ, and I may have found a 360MM rad locally for hopefully around $70 with fans.

EDIT: HOLY CRAP! Temps have dropped from 81C on the hottest core to 65C on the hottest core! Just by tweaking the Vcore a bit, that's awesome!

I still think I'd get the 360MM rad though, to dissipate heat more. I haven't tried stopping the test and seeing how long it takes the CPU to cool off yet.
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