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Which Vcore reading is correct? - Page 2

post #11 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by murk00 View Post

In bios I have manual selected at 1.350 but it is reading 1.372

What are your LLC settings in BIOS? Depending on that, it could be overvolting the chip. I used to have issues with that on my ASUS board.
post #12 of 18
I go by CPUz.
 
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Gsvlip Dudyrm
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post #13 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by truestorybro545 View Post

What are your LLC settings in BIOS? Depending on that, it could be overvolting the chip. I used to have issues with that on my ASUS board.

It's not an issue. If you have set your vcore at 1.35v with Normal Load Line calibration, your VID will be around 1.35v. But if you put your Load Line calibration too high or even extreme; the VID will be around 1.375v because he is loading more voltage to prevent the Vdrop.



Read This:
http://www.masterslair.com/vdroop-and-load-line-calibration-is-vdroop-really-bad



This is with vdroop





This is without vdrop (with LLC enebale)





With higher Load Line Calibration level, you can go past the VID to prevent even bigger voltage drop, there are many stages of LLC


Edited by KaRLiToS - 4/3/13 at 9:36pm
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post #14 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by KaRLiToS View Post

It's not an issue. If you have set your vcore at 1.35v with Normal Load Line calibration, your VID will be around 1.35v. But if you put your Load Line calibration too high or even extrem; the VID will be around 1375v because he is loading more voltage to prevent the Vdrop.



Read This:
http://www.masterslair.com/vdroop-and-load-line-calibration-is-vdroop-really-bad



This is with vdroop





This is without vdrop (with LLC enebale)





With higher Load Licalibration level, you can go past the VID to prevent even bigger voltage drop, there are many stages of LLC


So... I wasn't... crazy?

I thought my board was so messed up because of that. Didn't know it was SUPPOSED to do that. Thanks man! thumb.gif
post #15 of 18
While I get why software won't provide the most accurate results for the voltages in the CPU, I'm finding the behaviour of my i7-3820 to be a bit odd. Even when it's set to its stock core speeds CPUID always shows a voltage of 1.384 - 1.41. When I look at other people configurations for their OC initially stock CPUID shows 1.1 - 1.2 V and then around 1.35 with a OC to 4.7 GHz. Would this be from some setting hidden away in the BIOS (ie something is just set to auto and I'll have to enter my own settings for Vcore and etc)? It doesn't give me any problems and just have a daily OC at 4.3 GHz and the core temps stay below 70, but I would like to understand what would be going on.
post #16 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by MN25 View Post

While I get why software won't provide the most accurate results for the voltages in the CPU, I'm finding the behaviour of my i7-3820 to be a bit odd. Even when it's set to its stock core speeds CPUID always shows a voltage of 1.384 - 1.41. When I look at other people configurations for their OC initially stock CPUID shows 1.1 - 1.2 V and then around 1.35 with a OC to 4.7 GHz. Would this be from some setting hidden away in the BIOS (ie something is just set to auto and I'll have to enter my own settings for Vcore and etc)? It doesn't give me any problems and just have a daily OC at 4.3 GHz and the core temps stay below 70, but I would like to understand what would be going on.

My CPU at stock (i7 3930k) runs at 1.35v (because of the VID). And when I Overclock it to 4.6GHZ, I only need 1.375v.

I can run 1.25v at 3.8 Ghz and I'm still stable.

VID
Quote:
VID (Voltage Identification)
The VID of your CPU is the default vcore your CPU needs in order to run at stock to run Intel’s standards for stability on any non-faulty motherboard. Some people have found that they can undervolt below their VID to still run at Stock speeds without failing stability tests. However, I highly discourage this on practice on low-end motherboards for reasons I will explain soon.

In my overclocking experience, I have found that using a medium to high-end motherboard has allowed me to overclock using the VID vcore for several hundred mhz’s. This is because these motherboards generally do not have bad vdroop or vdrop (defined below). The CPU’s VID is designed to be what is required so that when a low-end motherboard shows its severe vdroop/vdrop that the CPU will still run 100% stable.
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WaterCool MoRA3 Pro with Gentle Typhoon 3 x MCP 655 pumps (With EK top...all serial) 2 x EK FC 1080ti Blocks Windows 7 Ultimate x64 
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post #17 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by MN25 View Post

While I get why software won't provide the most accurate results for the voltages in the CPU, I'm finding the behaviour of my i7-3820 to be a bit odd. Even when it's set to its stock core speeds CPUID always shows a voltage of 1.384 - 1.41. When I look at other people configurations for their OC initially stock CPUID shows 1.1 - 1.2 V and then around 1.35 with a OC to 4.7 GHz. Would this be from some setting hidden away in the BIOS (ie something is just set to auto and I'll have to enter my own settings for Vcore and etc)? It doesn't give me any problems and just have a daily OC at 4.3 GHz and the core temps stay below 70, but I would like to understand what would be going on.

Yea if you have your voltage on auto it will shoot up really high. You should always find a stable voltage on your own when overclocking and never use auto. Start with a fixed voltage and find what is stable and once you know your stable voltage for your overclock then you can change it to an offset voltage. You should test for at least 23 hours with P95 to find a stable voltage. You should test for an hour at first and if you get an error raise the vcore until you don't get one in that hour and then test it for 23 hours. Just keep an eye on it for as long as you can just in case you get an error later on you can see it so you don't test for 23 hours with an error that you got 4 hours in.
post #18 of 18
Would you recommend going back to stock clock speeds, finding the minimum stable voltage and working my way back up from there? Or would it be safe to manually knock it down to ~1.3V and keep the multipliers?


Edit: Now that I've gotten back home I've got a screenshot of the readings and what to make sure I'm doing this right. The VID realtemp gives is it's estimate of the voltage needed to run stably? While CPUZ or HWmonitor show the actual voltage across the core? I set the Vcore down to 1.31 in the BIOS and reset everything but it is still showing at 1.4 V.



Edited by MN25 - 4/4/13 at 2:08pm
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