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How can I tell when an Apogee 2 block is primed?

post #1 of 16
Thread Starter 
Have a new loop all installed with nice black tubing. Only thing is, I'm not sure if I have all the air bubbles out and the apogee drive 2 CPU block is primed. I've only used a Koolance pump (d5 before) with clear tubing where I could see the air bubbles. The pump is likely the low point, or the next to low point (with one of the two radiators). "Above" these two is the GPU block and a top mounted rad w/ built in res (swiftech)

I've tilted the case (heard air move) multiple times. Now, I don't really hear anything. I cycle the pump for the instructed 2 sec bursts. It's running at full speed.

Do I need to do anything else? Am I ready to run a long cycle test?

Thanks for any help / ideas.
Imp
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post #2 of 16
I bled my system for 24 hours, Upright position for a few hours and shaking the case to help release any trap bubbles, then tilted the case forward and shake the case, let it run a few hours and tilted it backward and did the same step. I repeated this about 3-4 times until I no longer hear any air or bubble moving in the radiator/block/hoses. I was surprised at how much bubble release even after I thought it was bled. Just be careful to not let the pump run dry.
    
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post #3 of 16
and also if your pump has speed control, turn it down for a few seconds then back up, it also helps push trapped air
    
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post #4 of 16
Thread Starter 
So, how can I tell if the pump is dry / has a bubble in it?
Imp
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post #5 of 16
The pump should be silent and doesn't make water/air rushing noise. Keep a eye out on the reservoir and top it off when it gets low, when turning the case make sure the water line doesn't go below the inlet port of the pump (sucking in air).
    
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post #6 of 16
Thread Starter 


Here's the loop in question - notice how the top two lines go outside of the case for the top rad (case is a tj08e)
Don't think there is a way I can get water line below the inlet of the pump in this case (well, without really trying).
Imp
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post #7 of 16
ahh sorry, my mistake. I would be worried about the uphill slop from the radiator to the inlet of the pump, The chances of air being trapped on the lower tube and water not constantly feeding the pump is very high. Does your pump make any air/water rushing noise at all?
    
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post #8 of 16
heres how i would do it adding a swift tech res for easy bleeding and safety of the pump



sorry for the paint shop stick man figures
    
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post #9 of 16
You will definately know if your pump has air in it, the sound is terrible. If it is nice and quite ... its free of air.
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post #10 of 16
Thread Starter 
I've heard that the MCP35X pump from the Apogee drive can be a little loud running at full speed. Since I'm doing leak testing & removing air, i'm just jumpering the power supply (rather than putting it on PWM) I've been running it for a couple 2-3 sec bursts as swiftech recommends. I can definitely hear the pump come up to speed. It doesn't sound bad, just sort of a high wattage high rpm fan (such as my scythe HS's) I let it sit last night for over 12 hrs. Going to try to rotate the case again and see if I can get any more air out. The loop took about 24 oz of fluid.

I know that the tubes aren't' the best. I had a dickens of a time routing the 3/4 OD tubes.
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