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[Build Log] First build break down, finding lots of corrosion

post #1 of 39
Thread Starter 
Hello guys,

I read a lot of posts on this forum when I decided to do my first water cooling build and I want to thank all of your because I am sure i would not have been able to get my first build done without researching on this forum. I am hoping that you guys might have some advice on my current situation so I can avoid it in the future. Before I get into the details of my problem here are the parts included in my build.

1 - XSPC H2 Tower Case 
1 - XSPC 120mm Universal Radstand
2 - XSPC RX480 Quad Fan Radiator
10 - Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120 mm - D1225C12B5AP-15 (1,850 rpm)
1 - Koolance RP-452X2 Dual 5.25" Reservoir for 1-2 PMP-450/S Pumps, Rev1.1
1 - Koolance 180-Degree Connector for RP-452X2 (Rev1.1)
2 - Koolance PMP-450 Pump, ID 13mm (1/2in)
1 - Koolance CPU-370 Water Block
2 - Danger Den GTX580/570 All Copper Water Block
12 - Koolance Fitting Single, Compression for 13mm x 19mm (1/2in x 3/4in) - NZL-V13-19KG
1 - Koolance QDC (Extreme Flow) No-Spill, Female for 13mm x 19mm (1/2in x 3/4in)
1 - Koolance QDC (Extreme Flow) No-Spill, Male for 13mm x 19mm (1/2in x 3/4in)
1 - Danger Den CrossSLI Fittings
11 ft - Tygon Silver Antimicrobial Tubing - 1/2" ID (3/4" OD) - Silver (AS600038)
2 - IandH Silver KillCoils - Antimicrobial .999 Fine Silver Tubing
1 drop per Liter - IandH Dead-Water Copper Sulfate Biocidal PC Coolant Additive
CVS Distilled Water was used as the coolant

The flow of the loop is:

Res Out -> Lower Rad Bottom Fitting -> Lower Rad Top Fitting -> CPU In -> CPU Out -> Upper Rad -> Lower GPU Block -> SLI Fitting -> Upper GPU Block -> Res In

And here are a some pictures so you can see how the loop was laid out in the system.




Placing the fill port in the middle ended up being problematic because of the power button wires. The depth of the fill port from the edge of the panel is perfect however. I'd also advise some thread lock on the inside nut as a few times when I opened the port the whole port moved instead of the port cap. I am going to be replacing the top panel in the rebuild and i plan to put two fill ports lined up with the two top ports of the res (which is also in line with the fan mounting screws).







I put the two IandH Silver KillCoils in the tubing above the QDC in the picture below. That tube is coming from the output of the res and is going into the bottom fitting of the lower rad. I figured this was the best way to do it because the bottom rad would be filled up before any water goes on to the next point in the loop. Please correct me if I am wrong on that.



Ok so now for my problem. I originally got the loop up and running in August 2011 and I just recently took apart the build so that I can upgrade the MB, CPU, RAM and Graphics Cards. The system was in use for a little over a year and a half. During that time I would have it off during the day and used it a lot after work in the evenings and on the weekends it was usually on most of the time. Over the last 6 months or so I noticed what I thought might have been a slight buildup of algae in the Res (it was a thin film of a grayish substance that peeled off the side of the Res when I filled it with water or when i first turned it on.

When I took apart the system I noticed right away a lot of corrosion on all of the nickel plated parts. When I opened up the GPU blocks they also had a lot of very dark corrosion. My problems look very similar to the ones in this thread.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1205823/silver-kill-coil-not-working

Here are some pictures of the corrosion that I found on my nickel parts and the copper GPU blocks.


Koolance CPU-370 before cleaning


Koolance CPU-370 after cleaning



Danger Den Copper block before cleaning


Danger Den Copper block after cleaning


Here you can see what I think looks to be nickel that has accumulated on the IandH Kill Coils. I also noticed a film in the tubing that has a similar color to what is on the kill coils on the Tygon Silver tubing where the the coils were in the loop. I will cut it open and add a picture of that in a few.


There looks to be grayish colored specs inside the radiator that I noticed after flushing it with boiling distilled a few times. Sorry that the pic is a little fuzzy I will try and get a better one.





Here you can see all of the corrosion I also have on the nickel plated fittings.





Here are the fittings after cleaning them.

Ok so after reading a lot of posts and especially after seeing what appears to be nickel on the silver kill coils and the tygon silver tubing I suspect that a lot of my nickel corrosion may be tied to using silver in the loop along with nickel plated fittings and the CPU-370 block. I suspect that the corrosion on the GPU block is normal for just using Distilled and Dead Water + Kill Coil in my loop for a year and a half. If that is not normal please let me know. I am sure not changing the water for a year and a half probably also contributed to the problem and likely made it worse but I am pretty sure I have heard of others doing the same without these kinds of issues so I am not sure.

Can you guys make any suggestions as far as how to prevent this from happening in the future? I am also wondering if I could use the cleaned fittings and cpu block and avoid any major future corrosion by using a corrosion blocker like Feser Base or even the Koolance clear coolant.

The bottom line is I have two new Koolance Nickel plated blocks coming with my new GPUs and I can either reuse the fittings and cpu block I have now, or I can sell the new Nickel GPU blocks and look into getting all copper blocks and remove nickel from my loop completely.

Thanks for taking the time to read this and let me know if you have any suggestions so I can avoid this problem as I rebuild my loop with my new hardware.

Thanks again,

Bryan
post #2 of 39
correct me if I'm wrong but I think that Silver kill coils and Nickel is a no no,
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post #3 of 39
No No NO, didn't you know, corrosion and staining is a myth made up by EK.

You clearly are mistaken which blocks you have here, they must all be EK because they are the only brand that have any trouble with this sort of thing at all.

Having three different metals in your loop for long periods is nothing to do with it. That is another Myth made up by EK as part of their conspiracy to defraud water cooling enthusiasts.
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post #4 of 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakusonfire View Post

No No NO, didn't you know, corrosion and staining is a myth made up by EK.

You clearly are mistaken which blocks you have here, they must all be EK because they are the only brand that have any trouble with this sort of thing at all.

Having three different metals in your loop for long periods is nothing to do with it. That is another Myth made up by EK as part of their conspiracy to defraud water cooling enthusiasts.

I cant tell if you are being sarcastic and bashing EK or if you seriously believe that... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion

Anyways, are you sure those are nickel plated fittings? they look really gold to me, which means they could be something different. EK had problems with Nickel plating flaking off a while back, but i'm sure they have that fixed by now. Some metals are incompatible with one another, the table (and how to use it) is in the Wiki link above.
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post #5 of 39
Thread Starter 
I wasn't sure if that was sarcastic or serious either. I was leaning towards sarcastic but then again with all my corrosion you can see why I would think that. Those are definitely Nickel plated brass fittings from Koolance. The photo just shows the color differently then they actually appear in person. Here is the LINK to the Koolance product page if you have any doubts.

In regards to Nickel and Silver being a No No it appears I built my loop just before all of that came to light. At this point I am more concerned about getting my loop rebuilt and making sure I don't have problems like this in the future. So at the minimum that means new CPU block, tubing and fittings and no silver in my loop. I considered trying to reuse the block and fittings but from what I read once they start corroding if I put them back in it would just continue to get worse and likely end up harming my new nickel GPU blocks.

I'm going to play it safe and get the new parts rather than risk having this issue again down the road, unless there are others who have been able to reuse fittings and blocks in this condition with some corrosion inhibitors and have them hold up without additional corrosion over time.

I am still debating if I should just get the Koolance coolant and be done with it or go another route like Feser Base and Distilled. Any recommendations you guys can offer would be great.

I am also curious to know if anyone has used the XSPC rads I have with nickel blocks without any corrosion issues? The link to the other thread I mentioned had the OP using the same rad and I also saw a post on pureoc about the same corrosion on the CPU-370. In both of those cases however they also used distilled and a kill coil so unless I hear of issues with the XSPC rads I suspect it was just the silver / nickel combination.

Any other suggestions would be great.

Thanks again.
post #6 of 39
Oh dear, I guess sarcasm really doesn't come across well in text, I thought going really big and saying he didn't know what brand he was using might make it clear but, oh well.

No, its just that is the idea you get if you believe some of the people on these forums. I personally just broke my loop down and checked my nickel blocks after 6 months use.
This is the GPU block after just opening it without any cleaning.

That is just using Distilled and liguid utopia.

I've read a lot of different opinions on this sort of thing and the one thing that seems to be common across all of the obvious severe cases is long periods of time without changing the coolant. I can't help but think that regular changing would mitigate the most severe effects.

I use all nickel EK blocks, just because I prefer the look to copper, but of course my rads are copper. I don't see the advantage to adding another metal with the silver coils, my water was crystal clear.
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post #7 of 39
Silver and Nickel together are not an issue. I run them in my loop with no build up or any corrosion. Also, from a chemistry point of view together they are safe as well. Even in stressed situations you shouldn't see corrosion due to their interaction.

That being said. I use nickel blocks with silver kill coil and four xspc rads. No issue or build up. The coolant with it is Distilled water and some dye along with silver kill coil.

What your issue is the year and a half you spent without flushing the rig. Lol. You should have done so before. Also, I avoid tygon. Maybe it's just me but when I used to use tygon I had build up in my loop after a couple months. Switching over to primochill solved that.

Just my 2cents.
post #8 of 39
Nickel will not corrode it is a relatively noble metal. What usually happens is the nickel plating either had some imperfections or got damaged and exposed the copper underneath which oxidised making the nickel flake off and giving it the appearance of corrosion. that's what you have there, the nickel blocks are now ruined but the staining on the copper blocks should be able to come off with a bit more cleaning.
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post #9 of 39
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shion314 View Post

Silver and Nickel together are not an issue. I run them in my loop with no build up or any corrosion. Also, from a chemistry point of view together they are safe as well. Even in stressed situations you shouldn't see corrosion due to their interaction.

That being said. I use nickel blocks with silver kill coil and four xspc rads. No issue or build up. The coolant with it is Distilled water and some dye along with silver kill coil.

What your issue is the year and a half you spent without flushing the rig. Lol. You should have done so before. Also, I avoid tygon. Maybe it's just me but when I used to use tygon I had build up in my loop after a couple months. Switching over to primochill solved that.

Just my 2cents.

Yeah I have no doubt that not flushing it definitely didn't help the situation. In the next build I will make sure to flush it every month or so. I have however seen others say they have done the same but without the kind of corrosion that I have. That is why I am looking into other possible causes before I put the next loop together.
post #10 of 39
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stickeelion View Post

Nickel will not corrode it is a relatively noble metal. What usually happens is the nickel plating either had some imperfections or got damaged and exposed the copper underneath which oxidised making the nickel flake off and giving it the appearance of corrosion. that's what you have there, the nickel blocks are now ruined but the staining on the copper blocks should be able to come off with a bit more cleaning.

That could be the case with the CPU block but that does not explain the corrosion on the nickel plated brass fittings. The corrosion on those while significant did not go through all the way to the brass. It is more like the nickel has been partially eaten away. Also what would explain the deposits on the kill coil? That looks like it could be nickel to me. I also have the same colored deposits in a thin film on the inside of the tygon silver tubing. I rubbed down the coil after soaking them in some baking soda and distilled water and the deposits came off and were a gray color slightly darker than nickel. I have not tried to rub the film off the tubing yet but I will let you know how it goes once I do so.

I understand a lot of people say there are no issues with silver and nickel so I am just trying to get more opinions from people who have run the same setup as me. I am also looking for ideas on coolant from others who have run a similar setup (Like Shion mentioned what he uses). Again thanks for the input.
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