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[Build Log] Fantome Nadir (800D) - Page 3

post #21 of 68
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post #22 of 68
Thread Starter 
Polishing Waterblock - Part 1

So, the waterblock is in a decent shape. Brasso's a mild abrasive, so while the copper is no longer brown, green, or black, it still doesn't have the shine of a new block. Time to get working!

Ingredients:
  • From automotive shop:
  • 3M 1000 grit sandpaper
  • 3M 2000 grit sandpaper

    From Grainger or your local jewerly tool distribution shop:
  • Red Rouge (Jeweler's Rouge)

    From hardware shop:
  • Dremel
  • Dremel 414 buffing wheel
  • Dremel 520 buffing wheel w/ impregnated compound
  • Sanding block (optional but recommended)
  • Krylon Crystal Clear 1301 (Not sure if needed)

    Other:
  • Latex gloves
  • Towels

    First, the list of incredients:
    Jeweler's Rouge. Cheap stuff, but if you buy online shipping is expensive. I recommend sourcing it locally. I had to ask a few jewelry repair shops before finding out Grainger stocks this stuff. 1lb, way more than you need. You need maybe 4oz at most. Probably a lot less.


    Jeweler's rouge is basically super fine FeO3 compound to give it a finishing mirror finish. 2000 grit sandpaper is coarse by comparison (you will see in a bit.) Four sticks of 4oz each. Enough to polish maybe a roomful of copper. tongue.gif


    1 sheet of 1000 and 2000 grit sandpaper. Give them a nice soak with a few drips of dishwashing soap before going to work.


    Dremel with 414 wheel, with some rouge already applied on the block already. Rouge turns black from heat and is normal.


    Me making a mess. Use the lowest speed setting when applying rouge, and only apply for 1 second or less. Any more is going to waste. (A bit of trial and error)


    Polishing work is basically a slow, repetitive process. Take 1000 grit sandpaper, sand the area you want to work on. When you think you've evened out all the scratches, take the 2000 grit sandpaper, and sand it till you think you got it flat. Always sand in a single direction, never applying too much pressure. When sanding, using a block is preferred for even pressure. Take your wet sandpaper, fold it in thirds. Use one side, and gently rub the copper surface. It will 'scratch' and make it matte immediately - don't panic. Go slowly. Everytime you feel like taking a short break (1 min? 30 seconds?), take your sandpaper, swish it into your bucket of water/soap (extends longevity of sandpaper too), and have a go again. When you think you've done all you can do with 2000 grit, take your towel, WIPE DRY YOUR COPPER BLOCK. You don't want water to pool in the channels and lead to oxidation or marks when it evaporates.

    Then, take your wheel, apply a bit of rouge on it, and start working on the block in a back and forth motion. Wheel speed should be medium. Too fast will burn the copper and rouge, too slow will not have much effect. Move at moderate pace, not too slowly (it will burn the copper), and not so quick that you don't do any work. Do not let rouge run out (it will burn the block), and do not use too much rouge (excess can be wiped away later, but still a PITA to deal with). When you feel your rouge get low (black/red will 'fade' away from the wheel), have a dab at the rouge, and resume working. Concentrate on small area and sweep back and forth, and you will see copper dust and a mirror finish emerge. Once you've made one 'pass' in the area, start over again at the beginning, and work your way to the end of your designated area. You will probably need to make 10 or more passes for your desired polish.

    It's sort of like how Handymen would mow their grass in Rollercoaster Tycoon I, where they'd go back and forth tediusly before moving onto another square of the grid. A pace of one wheel-width every three or so seconds as you sweep left-right, inching forward little by little.

    Here's a picture showing 1000 grit, 2000 grit, and some buffing with 414 wheel + jeweler's rouge. I started at the backside first in case I colossally mess up. tongue.gif

    So, the left side is 1000 grit sandpaper. In this unforgiving angle, you can see a lot of scratch marks. In the center area it's 2000 grit. On the right is after a couple passes of jeweler's rouge. A very noticeable difference. 1000 grit gives you a matte finish, 2000 grit gives you a more brilliant, but still matte finish, and jeweler's rouge gives you a true mirror finish. Very shiny, and I haven't even 'properly' polished it yet at this point. You can sort of see the vertical divide where each layer of polishing begins, next to the screwholes.

    Here's another angle, a little more work done.


    And here's the backside in a near-complete state. I buffed the hell out of that little elevated area where it meets the GPU. tongue.gif Where previously it was sort of scratched up, it's now a nice mirror finish.


    That's two days worth of work there. smile.gif

    In the next section, I'm going to start polishing up the channels using wheel 520. Due to the way 414 is attached (a screw on the very end), I can't exactly hold the dremel in the upright position and polish the channels. I had a bit of difficulty doing the bends and corners right. Hopefully 520 will solve a lot of my problems. They actually don't have 520 in stock at Home Depot (and none in Lowes), so I special ordered them and they should be ready for pick up tomorrow.

    Stay tuned. thumb.gif

Edited by sakerfalcon - 5/2/13 at 9:18pm
post #23 of 68
Subbed! I've learned a lot so far. Some of these tips I need to apply to my parts now and some I want to try out.
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post #24 of 68
Thread Starter 
Well, I've run into a huge dillema now.

In search of another 7970, I've put two snipes for on eBay for two identical listings ending at the same time, and won them both. doh.gif I only account space for one extra, so now I've got massive space issues. The second pump (on the left) doesn't have enough vertical space to clear the 3rd 7970, and the 800D is just a cm to narrow to fit the 7970s and D5 pump side-by side. I've done a mock up with the panel and mobo tray with a 7970 and there's no way to fit.

So, the second D5 pump will need to relocate, and with that crazy plumbing will follow. doh.gif Prelim ideas are to reorientate the PSU length-wise again (to fit larger 1200w+ PSU), and the second D5 on the far right.



Until then, here's the new mobo:



I went to Home depot to get some right-angled fittings, and I got FIVE in a pack of four! These little things makes me feel like such a winner, haha.



Somehow we'll make it work.
post #25 of 68
Very detailed work log! Looking good, keep up the good work
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post #26 of 68
Thread Starter 
I was mulling over it for two days when suddenly an epithany came. That silly bottom inlet port on the Bitspower top suddenly became useful! I scoffed at that initially, but now it's found its purpose. To keep both pumps inline while preventing crazy off angled piping, I'll route the pipes of the second pump under the midpanel. That way, all copper pipes can still be on the same vertical plane, not intersect (removing need for S-bends), and still look symmetrically elegant. I do insist that the order be Pump > CPU > Rad > Pump > GPU > Res, with two pumps sitting at mid-points at each other. The easy way out would be dual pump top of course, but I'm crazy and like to do things the complicated way.

First off, the updated diagram:


Pipes will exit off a 45-degree rotary adapter at the bottom to some point on the acrylic midpanel where it aligns with pump inlet / outlet. Total run of piping will be on the long side, oh well.

Also in other news, through luck of timing, I've managed to snag a Koolance full block. No more forking out $170 for a MIPS block. smile.gif

Three batmobiles line up for a picture. biggrin.gif

Unfortunately Heatkiller 7970 blocks are OOS everywhere and it'll take at least a month for FCPU to have them back in stock.


Here are two cards (labeled thus) on the RIVE. Unfortunately ATI doesn't make nice triple/quad PCB bridges, which means it's not going to look as nice as I wanted. I also only have long bridges, so I'm in need of two short (two-slot) CF bridges. Why can't they make nice black PCB bridges like Nvidia.


Here's a further mockup. Everything does come together nicely, but space constraints will become an issue. Fortunately no surprises as it's accurate to the diagrams, but it felt a lot roomier then. I will have to jigsaw a new hole on the mobo tray to accomodate new wiring.


Another angle - not a whole lot of maneuvering space because of tri-crossfire. Brand spanking new Seasonic X1250 in the background, a huge behemoth compared to my old X750. Don't worry, I'll cover it up with steel mesh, I've got 36"x40" of it!


Note: Heatkiller polishing work is underway, it's just a slow process and I want to consolidate it down in one post)
post #27 of 68
This log rocks!

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post #28 of 68
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jameswalt1 View Post

This log rocks!

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I agree. Very detailed and the schematics are great. thumb.gif Subbed!! biggrin.gif
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post #29 of 68
Thread Starter 
To breathe some life back into this log:

- Still waiting for Heatkiller copper blocks. I've manage to snag one from Ebay, one left to go. ETA from FCPU is about two weeks.
- Grabbed some Koolance VL3N QDCs from [H]ardforum
- Got some miscelleous MDPC sleeving
- Got a multimeter from Amazon, and bulk 18 AWG cable
- Got 10 meters of 12mm copper pipe.
- Just paid for 100 push-fit fittings. Hopefully it should end well - the transaction with the Chinese company/factory has been less than smooth. E22.biz flat out ignored me when I inquired about dimensions. So, I resorted to talking to quite a few companies that made pneumatic fittings. I specifically wanted nickel-plated all metal push fit fittings (or some variation of buzzwords such as easyfit or single-touch). Of the companies that did respond to an individual inquiring about a small order, fewer replied with schematics or CAD drawings; and fewer still gave me pricing. International shipping's a b*ch - the prices quoted ranged from $60 to $170! And the cost per individual fitting also varied - some required MOQ of 300, some 500, some even more (to start production); the upper bound was $8 / each (minimum 500). Finally, on the payment side, some required wiring, which was not an easy task finding a service that could (cheaply) wire to a particular Chinese bank, either in USD or CNY. For example, Moneygram doesn't even have a serivce to wire to a Chinese bank that's not ICBC.


Pipes arrived early this morning while I was still half-asleep. Earliest UPS delivery ever. Checked the pipes, no bends, no kinks.


Closeup of one of the ends. They will need to be deburred and filed so they don't eat the orings of the fittings.


10m of pipe. A lot. Of. Pipe. This should be enough for three builds, possibly even four.


To give some perspective, that's a meterstick. Each segment is 2.5m, four total. I had difficulty getting it around hallways.


Black and brown copper MDPC sleeving, plus a pipe bender. Fun times ahead, that's for sure! Colors do match up quite nicely. thumb.gif I may add some Vanilla Sands as highlight. Not sure yet.
Edited by sakerfalcon - 6/1/13 at 12:12am
post #30 of 68
Quote:
Originally Posted by sakerfalcon View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
To breathe some life back into this log:

- Still waiting for Heatkiller copper blocks. I've manage to snag one from Ebay, one left to go. ETA from FCPU is about two weeks.
- Grabbed some Koolance VL3N QDCs from [H]ardforum
- Got some miscelleous MDPC sleeving
- Got a multimeter from Amazon, and bulk 18 AWG cable
- Got 10 meters of 12mm copper pipe.
- Just paid for 100 push-fit fittings. Hopefully it should end well - the transaction with the Chinese company/factory has been less than smooth. E22.biz flat out ignored me when I inquired about dimensions. So, I resorted to talking to quite a few companies that made pneumatic fittings. I specifically wanted nickel-plated all metal push fit fittings (or some variation of buzzwords such as easyfit or single-touch). Of the companies that did respond to an individual inquiring about a small order, fewer replied with schematics or CAD drawings; and fewer still gave me pricing. International shipping's a b*ch - the prices quoted ranged from $60 to $170! And the cost per individual fitting also varied - some required MOQ of 300, some 500, some even more (to start production); the upper bound was $8 / each (minimum 500). Finally, on the payment side, some required wiring, which was not an easy task finding a service that could (cheaply) wire to a particular Chinese bank, either in USD or CNY. For example, Moneygram doesn't even have a serivce to wire to a Chinese bank that's not ICBC.


Pipes arrived early this morning while I was still half-asleep. Earliest UPS delivery ever. Checked the pipes, no bends, no kinks.


Closeup of one of the ends. They will need to be deburred and filed so they don't eat the orings of the fittings.


10m of pipe. A lot. Of. Pipe. This should be enough for three builds, possibly even four.


To give some perspective, that's a meterstick. Each segment is 2.5m, four total. I had difficulty getting it around hallways.


Black and brown copper MDPC sleeving, plus a pipe bender. Fun times ahead, that's for sure! Colors do match up quite nice
I may add some Vanilla Sands as highlight.

thumb.gif
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Samsung 840 Pro 512Gb 2 x Aquacomputer Modularity 480 Single Circuit 100+ Bitspower Fittings E22 12mm/10mm Acrylic Tube 
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Primochill DI Water 1 x Aquacomputer Modularity 240 Single Circuit 2 x Aquacomputer Aqualis Reservoir 4 x MCP35X w/ 2 x Aquacomputer Dual DDC Tops 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
EK Supremacy Full Nickle Clean CSQ CPU Block 2 x EK Monarch Ram Blocks Clean CSQ Acetel XSPC RIVE Motherboard Block Kit 3 x EK Titan Waterblocks Nickle Plexi w/ Backpl... 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
12 x Noiseblocker Multiframe 120mm Fans 1250rpm Windows 8 Pro 3 x LG 27ea63v Corsair K95 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Corsair AX1200 w/ Ensourced Custom Sleeved Cables 900D w/ Custom Paint Corsair M95  CorePad XXL 
Audio
Logitech z623 
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Parvum Warfare
(16 items)
 
Parvum Titanfall
(21 items)
 
ROBOCOP
(25 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
4970k EVGA z97 Stinger Nvidia Titan Black 8Gb Corsair Vengeance LP 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
Samsung EVO 500Gb Swiftech Apogee XL CPU block Swiftech KOMODO NV LE GPU block Darkside 240mm & 120mm Radiators 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Bitspower True Brass fittings Noiseblocker Multiframe 120mm fans  E22 Acrylic Tube Mayhems Aurora 2 fluid 
OSPowerCaseOther
Windows 8.1 Corsair RM650 Custom Parvum Systems Ensourced Custom Sleeved Cables 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel 4670k @ 4.8Ghz Asus Gryphon w/ Thermal Armor 2 x EVGA GTX 770 SC Corsair Dominator GT 8Gb 1866Mhz 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
Samsung EVO 250Gb EK Supremacy Clean Nickel Plexi Swiftech MCP35X Pump Mayhems Aurora 2 Coolant 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
4 x Coolermaster JetFlo 120mm Fans 3 x NoiseBlocker Black Silent Pro 80x15mm Fans EK Monarch X4 Clean Nickel Plexi 2 x EK GTX 770 Clean Nickel Plexi 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
2 x EK Coolstream PE 240mm Radiator Bitspower Black Sparkle Fittings E22 Acrylic Tube Bitspower Reservoir/Pump Top Combo 
OSPowerCaseOther
Windows 8.1 Corsair AX860 Parvum Systems Customized S2.0 Ensourced Custom Sleeved Cables 
Other
Various Custom Vinyl and Paint Work 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
3930k @ 5.1 Asus Rampage IV Extreme 3 x EVGA GTX 780 SC 16Gb Corsair Dominator GT 2133Mhz 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingCooling
Samsung 840 Pro 512Gb 2 x Aquacomputer Modularity 480 Single Circuit 100+ Bitspower Fittings E22 12mm/10mm Acrylic Tube 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
Primochill DI Water 1 x Aquacomputer Modularity 240 Single Circuit 2 x Aquacomputer Aqualis Reservoir 4 x MCP35X w/ 2 x Aquacomputer Dual DDC Tops 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
EK Supremacy Full Nickle Clean CSQ CPU Block 2 x EK Monarch Ram Blocks Clean CSQ Acetel XSPC RIVE Motherboard Block Kit 3 x EK Titan Waterblocks Nickle Plexi w/ Backpl... 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
12 x Noiseblocker Multiframe 120mm Fans 1250rpm Windows 8 Pro 3 x LG 27ea63v Corsair K95 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
Corsair AX1200 w/ Ensourced Custom Sleeved Cables 900D w/ Custom Paint Corsair M95  CorePad XXL 
Audio
Logitech z623 
  hide details  
Reply
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