EVGA released first factory overclocked GTX Titan at 928mhz base and 980mhz boost with a hydro copper waterblock and backplate. Comes in signature and regular model.
Quote:
$1169.99
928mhz base
980mhz boost
GTX Titan Hydro Copper
I see no difference between the basic hydro copper and the signature hydro copper, except for the extra $100 price tag and a t-shirt. seriously? or am I missing something?
It's like Fight Club rules, the first rule of EVGA product marketing is you don't tell the customer what they're really getting.
I tried to find this out before, on another forum I read a theory that Signature cards have more power phases, but I see no evidence to back up that claim. As far as I can tell: Signature = the word signature printed on the card (but only with some models) + a bundle of tat. I like EVGA, but this whole Signature line has me confused and until EVGA make it totally clear I think it is a bit of a stain on their reputation.
EDIT: either way, I'd love to have a couple of those Hydro Copper Titan's in my games system.
Honestly though unless you're afraid to put your own waterblock on (if I were, have to say I wouldn't be watercooling in the first place), it seems a bit pointless. I've heard the HydroCoppers aren't the best out there with better alternatives. It'd even end up being cheaper seemingly? The only guarantee here is the stock boost clock which as far as I've heard, 980MHz is standard for essentially any aircooled Titan, watercooled you'd expect this at the bare minimum.
I also still don't understand the Signature edition for another $50 for just a t-shirt and mousepad both of no particular value. Be much better if a backplate was added with Signature on the reference cooler models, in my opinion
Do Titan's still throttle when overclocked? or was that problem overcome? I suppose if there is still a problem with throttling on some cards and the Hydro Copper guarantees the clock without throttling then that would be reassuring for buyers. Based on looks alone I think I prefer Aquacomputer's all nickel kyrographics.
Do Titan's still throttle when overclocked? or was that problem overcome? I suppose if there is still a problem with throttling on some cards and the Hydro Copper guarantees the clock without throttling then that would be reassuring for buyers. Based on looks alone I think I prefer Aquacomputer's all nickel kyrographics.
the throttling ins't temperature related but total wattage output. Apparently Nvidia made a few errors in the way it reported and calculated total power usage at any given time, so cards are supposedly being throttled pre-maturely, but until we see something different from them, i dont know how much water that holds.
There are bios' out and about that can set specific voltage/clock variables and raise the wattage limit a bit (265w stock/bios lock, 300w hard) but the success of these is all over the place. many titans will oc to ~1150-1200, stock or modded bios, with few being 100% unthrottled/no flickering(with modded bios) above 1200. Those that can stay at 1200+ are mostly using the modded bios'.
Do Titan's still throttle when overclocked? or was that problem overcome? I suppose if there is still a problem with throttling on some cards and the Hydro Copper guarantees the clock without throttling then that would be reassuring for buyers. Based on looks alone I think I prefer Aquacomputer's all nickel kyrographics.
There's still a "throttling" issue which Nvidia in fact named as, incorrectly reported power usage by the card. I believe they said they'd have a fix not in the next driver update but the one after, somewhat over a month ago now.
EDIT: Beaten by the above though I was actually under the belief it was said the card wasn't throttling, just appearing to do so since the power usage was incorrectly reported to us? I'm not sure now.
the throttling ins't temperature related but total wattage output. Apparently Nvidia made a few errors in the way it reported and calculated total power usage at any given time, so cards are supposedly being throttled pre-maturely, but until we see something different from them, i dont know how much water that holds.
There are bios' out and about that can set specific voltage/clock variables and raise the wattage limit a bit (265w stock/bios lock, 300w hard) but the success of these is all over the place. many titans will oc to ~1150-1200, stock or modded bios, with few being 100% unthrottled/no flickering(with modded bios) above 1200. Those that can stay at 1200+ are mostly using the modded bios'.
I've had my card reach 131% power (~330W) during 3dm11.
The success also isn't all over the place, the bioses are. If you use the correct stuff your card won't throttle as long as you don't hit the temperature or power limits, which for power can be adjusted to accept way more than you will ever need (I have mine at 500W max atm).
I've had my card reach 131% power (~330W) during 3dm11.
The success also isn't all over the place, the bioses are. If you use the correct stuff your card won't throttle as long as you don't hit the temperature or power limits, which for power can be adjusted to accept way more than you will ever need (I have mine at 500W max atm).
Oh? I'd be under the belief it wouldn't be possible to go over 300w with the currently provided power options - 75w from the lane, 150w from the 8-pin and 75w from the 6-pin? But d'oh as just occured to me, Nvidia has already stated inaccurate power usage readings so I guess we can't really take any as accurate unless measured manually and not via software.
Oh? I'd be under the belief it wouldn't be possible to go over 300w with the currently provided power options - 75w from the lane, 150w from the 8-pin and 75w from the 6-pin? But d'oh as just occured to me, Nvidia has already stated inaccurate power usage readings so I guess we can't really take any as accurate unless measured manually and not via software.
You can pull much, much more from the power connectors. There is no way a simple wire can physically restrict the power usage unless it burns from too much. Even the difference between a 6pin and an 8pin is just two grounds, you can easily do twice the power from the connectors no problem as long as your PSU can take it. The connectors will supply the card with as much power as it needs.
You can pull much, much more from the power connectors. There is no way a simple wire can physically restrict the power usage unless it burns from too much. Even the difference between a 6pin and an 8pin is just two grounds, you can easily do twice the power from the connectors no problem as long as your PSU can take it. The connectors will supply the card with as much power as it needs.
Indeed, I was aware of the simple differences in reality between the 8 and 6 pins but was more under the impression that the GPU would thus treat it as a hard limit and not draw more than what it perceives can be drawn as judged at a lower hardware level. My other point anyway stands, that if the power draws being shown are inaccurate like NVidia says then no software solution can be relied upon to judge the actual power draw currently until it's addressed.
I'm slightly confused why anyone would go for a Hydro copper, SC or any other variant seeing as they're all identical and all OC to about the same amount?
Next one I buy for SLI will be the cheapest one I can find new, regardless of manufacturer
I've had my card reach 131% power (~330W) during 3dm11.
The success also isn't all over the place, the bioses are. If you use the correct stuff your card won't throttle as long as you don't hit the temperature or power limits, which for power can be adjusted to accept way more than you will ever need (I have mine at 500W max atm).
your card is pulling 330w because of natural inefficiency. It falls right on point of an expected 90% efficiency. So you are most likely hitting 300w with the extra 30w as waste.
from a bios builder over at evga:
"The card has a hard limit of 300W, beyond that it will throttle no matter what. Naennons bios set default power at 260W (first throttling point) and max at 300W (no point in setting higher than 300W as that is hard max). This resolved 90% of my throttling (my card is leaky and power hungry) but most cards it resolved all throttling in normal benchmarks. I had to alter Naennons default power to 285W to stop all throttling using common 3dmark benchmarks/games on mine. Now only if go above 285W will I start to get throttling, no sensible 3D benchmark or current game have I seen throttling now."
" His all have def power at 260W, which will keep 95% gpus from throttling during benchmarks and gaming, except very leaky ones like mine, so I increased to 280W. The max limits set higher than 300W, will be same as hard limit of 300W."
Well I dunno, I throttled with the naennon BIOS (raised limits, the not the original one) in 3dmark11 when highly OC'd. After I switched to my current BIOS I haven't seen any power related throttling at all (only temps when I leave the fan at auto and try to push high OC's for gaming in which case the thing doesn't ramp up quickly enough to lower the temps --> throttle).
I'm currently on the original pre-release engineering BIOS that was used by kingpin and andre yang...
What would be much stranger than my card going over 300W is the card having a 300W limit and my card just out of the blue maxing out without any throttling at exactly that limit. Also where are people pulling the 300W one from if the measuring system can say 330W, how do they then know how efficient is the power delivery system?
There is also this card with a vmod:
Are you going to tell me that that's not going above 300W if I'm already hitting it at 1250MHz or so?
My Titan + EK block + EK back plate cost me almost $1150 ($1000 + $115 + $30). I think the price is fair for a factory assembly. But, I just love the look of the EK acrylic cover blocks + back plates, so I ever get a second, I'll just be doing that again.
My Titan + EK block + EK back plate cost me almost $1150 ($1000 + $115 + $30). I think the price is fair for a factory assembly. But, I just love the look of the EK acrylic cover blocks + back plates, so I ever get a second, I'll just be doing that again.
I agree. I think the $1170 price is fair. The Hydro Copper block is an EVGA branded Swiftech Komodo, which retails for $155, plus the HC comes with 4 EVGA branded Swiftech Lok-Seal fittings (even though you will likely only use two of them), which are between $4 and 5 (originally they were more than that so hats off to Swiftech for dropping the prices). The only real advantage is that you don't get an air cooler with it so you pay some for the name in that respect.
The HC is an excellent performing block. It is quite restrictive but it's not the worst out there, and it performs within a degree or so of the best. Not to mention that it fully covers and protects all of the cards components and come with a backplate, so it is quite strong. Owning ass 7970 with a broken capacitor, I can very much appreciate that.
Well I dunno, I throttled with the naennon BIOS (raised limits, the not the original one) in 3dmark11 when highly OC'd. After I switched to my current BIOS I haven't seen any power related throttling at all (only temps when I leave the fan at auto and try to push high OC's for gaming in which case the thing doesn't ramp up quickly enough to lower the temps --> throttle).
I'm currently on the original pre-release engineering BIOS that was used by kingpin and andre yang...
What would be much stranger than my card going over 300W is the card having a 300W limit and my card just out of the blue maxing out without any throttling at exactly that limit. Also where are people pulling the 300W one from if the measuring system can say 330W, how do they then know how efficient is the power delivery system?
There is also this card with a vmod:
Are you going to tell me that that's not going above 300W if I'm already hitting it at 1250MHz or so?
Is kingpins bios readily available or no? because if it truly is a pre-release, engineering sample, then obviously it doesn't have the same limits the current bios' people are basing off of the stock one. Which, in all honesty, is bit like sandbagging if not everyone can get a hold of it.
Considering the context of my first comment here, talking about throttling and waterblocks, unless this bios that lets you hit over 300w is widely available, its a moot point.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phelan
I agree. I think the $1170 price is fair. The Hydro Copper block is an EVGA branded Swiftech Komodo, which retails for $155, plus the HC comes with 4 EVGA branded Swiftech Lok-Seal fittings (even though you will likely only use two of them), which are between $4 and 5 (originally they were more than that so hats off to Swiftech for dropping the prices). The only real advantage is that you don't get an air cooler with it so you pay some for the name in that respect.
The HC is an excellent performing block. It is quite restrictive but it's not the worst out there, and it performs within a degree or so of the best. Not to mention that it fully covers and protects all of the cards components and come with a backplate, so it is quite strong. Owning ass 7970 with a broken capacitor, I can very much appreciate that.
My Titan + EK block + EK back plate cost me almost $1150 ($1000 + $115 + $30). I think the price is fair for a factory assembly. But, I just love the look of the EK acrylic cover blocks + back plates, so I ever get a second, I'll just be doing that again.
I understand we are talking peanuts in terms of actual cash difference, but if i had to run multiple blocks in a loop, I would not want a hc block. The restriction isn't about the HC itself, it is how it effects the entire loop.
And yes, the ek blocks do have a bit more styling and no large sticker slapped on the from
Even if you got his BIOS, the card was hard-modded
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