Overclock.net › Forums › Intel › Intel Motherboards › Sabertooth z77 won't boot
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Sabertooth z77 won't boot

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 
So I'm in dire need of some help, running a sabertooth z77 + 3770k. Everything was working fine and I decided (not sure why) to re do my TIM. I am de-lidded and all that, but that has been done for a while no issues. Reinstalled everything, booted fine and ran a prime 95 to check new temps and PC locked up, didn't really think too much of it so I rebooted, upped offset voltage a tad, saved and booted into windows again. I noticed the voltage didn't change so I shut down and went to clear the bios via the CMOS pin. Unplugged power, moved jumper, waited 10 seconds, moved it back annnnnd now it won't power on.

I've check for any bent pins, RAM not seated correctly, etc.... But as I said I booted into windows twice just fine after re installing everything, only when I cleared the bios did I start having issues. The crazy thing is that when I REMOVE the CMOS jumper completely the PC starts itself, and it does show the CPU led. I currently have processor removed and CMOS jumper in correct position and it still will not power on unless i remove the jumper completely.

Sorry for the bad paragraphing and such, on an iPad -_-


Please offer any ideas or advice if possible!
post #2 of 6
Have you put the CPU back in and tried again yet? What LED does the POST hang up at? I don't own that board but I am guessing it has all the POST LEDs that the other ASUS boards have.
Silence
(20 items)
 
Secondary Rig
(9 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Intel i7-5820k  ASRock x99 extreme 4 AMD R9 290X AMD R9 290X 
RAMHard DriveCoolingCooling
ballistix ddr4 dual channel Samsung 850 EVO 500GB DT 5noz CPU Waterblock XSPC Razor Full Cover GPU Block 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
XSPC Razor Full Cover GPU Block 4x120 Black Ice Xtreme GTX480 Swiftech MCP655 Danger Den Monsoon Pump/Reservoir 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Corsair Link Fan Controller Windows 8.1 Nixeus 2560x1440 Logitech G15 
PowerMouseMouse PadAudio
Kingwin PF-850 Ttesports Level10M Razer Vespula Sennheiser HD590 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5-2500k gigabyte z68xp-ud4 Gigabyte GTX 970 G1 Gaming DDR3 1600 4x2GB 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Western Digital Velociraptor 300GB w/ Intel RST... Corsair H100 Windows 8.1 1920x1200 HP 
Power
PC P+C 1000w 
  hide details  
Reply
Silence
(20 items)
 
Secondary Rig
(9 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Intel i7-5820k  ASRock x99 extreme 4 AMD R9 290X AMD R9 290X 
RAMHard DriveCoolingCooling
ballistix ddr4 dual channel Samsung 850 EVO 500GB DT 5noz CPU Waterblock XSPC Razor Full Cover GPU Block 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
XSPC Razor Full Cover GPU Block 4x120 Black Ice Xtreme GTX480 Swiftech MCP655 Danger Den Monsoon Pump/Reservoir 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Corsair Link Fan Controller Windows 8.1 Nixeus 2560x1440 Logitech G15 
PowerMouseMouse PadAudio
Kingwin PF-850 Ttesports Level10M Razer Vespula Sennheiser HD590 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5-2500k gigabyte z68xp-ud4 Gigabyte GTX 970 G1 Gaming DDR3 1600 4x2GB 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Western Digital Velociraptor 300GB w/ Intel RST... Corsair H100 Windows 8.1 1920x1200 HP 
Power
PC P+C 1000w 
  hide details  
Reply
post #3 of 6
Thread Starter 
I have not tried that yet, I don't necessarily like repeatedly inserting and removing the CPU. I removed it thinking that it should still attempt to power on with no CPU installed, is that not true? If not I will try to install it again if you think it would make a difference.
post #4 of 6
Thread Starter 
And as far as the posting, with the CMOS jumper in the correct position, the pc won't even attempt to power on when I press the button. I have tried jumping the power pins on the Mobo as well to rule out a faulty power button still no go. The only thing that makes the pc show any signs of life is removing the CMOS jumper completely, then it all spins up and I see the CPU led, i saw that led with the CPU installed and removed. I don't know if that definitely means a bad processor or not since it only powered up with the jumper removed.
post #5 of 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by knuck3ls View Post

So I'm in dire need of some help, running a sabertooth z77 + 3770k. Everything was working fine and I decided (not sure why) to re do my TIM. I am de-lidded and all that, but that has been done for a while no issues. Reinstalled everything, booted fine and ran a prime 95 to check new temps and PC locked up, didn't really think too much of it so I rebooted, upped offset voltage a tad, saved and booted into windows again. I noticed the voltage didn't change so I shut down and went to clear the bios via the CMOS pin. Unplugged power, moved jumper, waited 10 seconds, moved it back annnnnd now it won't power on.

I've check for any bent pins, RAM not seated correctly, etc.... But as I said I booted into windows twice just fine after re installing everything, only when I cleared the bios did I start having issues. The crazy thing is that when I REMOVE the CMOS jumper completely the PC starts itself, and it does show the CPU led. I currently have processor removed and CMOS jumper in correct position and it still will not power on unless i remove the jumper completely.

Sorry for the bad paragraphing and such, on an iPad -_-


Please offer any ideas or advice if possible!

Just one question why did you use the jumper instead of the bios CMOS button?
I would remove battery and wait 30min before putting it back in.
kamikaze
(18 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
8600k Asus Extreme X Apex 370 Asus Strix 1080 Ti  Asus GTX 770 DCUii 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveCooling
GSkill 3200Mhz Samsung 960 M.2 pro Sandisk ultra pro xspc 240 raystorm 
OSMonitorMonitorMonitor
Windows 10 Pro LG UC9938-w AOC 24"  AOC 24" 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
G19 Corsair RM 1000i nzxt 820 Phantom saitik rat 9 
Audio
Asus Xonar DX 
  hide details  
Reply
kamikaze
(18 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
8600k Asus Extreme X Apex 370 Asus Strix 1080 Ti  Asus GTX 770 DCUii 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveCooling
GSkill 3200Mhz Samsung 960 M.2 pro Sandisk ultra pro xspc 240 raystorm 
OSMonitorMonitorMonitor
Windows 10 Pro LG UC9938-w AOC 24"  AOC 24" 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
G19 Corsair RM 1000i nzxt 820 Phantom saitik rat 9 
Audio
Asus Xonar DX 
  hide details  
Reply
post #6 of 6
I agree about the battery... although I don't think it will help but it would def be a good troubleshooting step. Are you certain you are putting the jumper back on the correct spot.. The reason I asked is although I can't confirm this it would be my suspicion that the post in the center and the one on the side that resets the bios are actually connected to stuff where as the post on the side where the jump usually sits is connected to nothing and is more or less just there to let you park the jumper. Again I can not confirm that is the truth it however it is common for jumpers to be used in that way. So with it removed I would expect it to be the same as it in the normal position.

Also you can not boot the computer to the bios without memory and a CPU also do not ever boot without a cooler as the CPU can hit high temps nearly instantly.

You can get a bad "seating" when you put the processor in and removing it and then re-inserting it is one of the steps in troubleshooting this issue.

If your POST lights cycled and then stopped at the CPU then either one of 3 things. Your CPU is bad, the CPU was not seated well, or something in the CPU path on the motherboard is damaged (resistor, capacitor, trace, VRM, whatever).

I would start with taking the battery out as advised. Leave the jumper out of the computer. Replace the CPU and install the heat-sink. Try booting into the BIOS.

Also does is CPU printed next to the LED that was lit? Don't mistake the LEDs for one another because some are fairly close to objects and it can get confusing on some of the boards. (I am sure you are correct but you can't be to certain when troubleshooting).

While troubleshooting nothing should be left to chance. You should not assume anything is functional (NOT EVEN THE PSU). Work in reverse order of what is most likely the problem or whatever is easiest to troubleshoot first.

Make a list of what steps you have taken so that you do not forget a certain step.

It can be very frustrating. I thought my rig was screwed when it wouldn't post and one of the lights on the motherboard (right next to the southbridge) was lit. Turned out that LED was for not having a boot device (meaning it did post) and that my real issue was that the new Nixeus monitor was not turning on until it go to windows with the cable I was using at that time. Using another monitor got me into the bios where I could change the boot device settings to get it up and running. Replacing the cable with a different cable solved my no monitor till windows issue.

I tore that computer apart over all that before I realized the LED did not mean what I thought it meant.

I would have never guessed it was the monitor cable and the odd issues that 2560 monitors have with certain cables.

Luckily I think you just need to put your CPU back in with the cooler and try again.


----

Also although I do this all the time due to the size, weight and water loop complexity I do not recommend installing a CPU while the board is sideways. Make sure to lay the computer in a way that the board is flat before putting the CPU in. Again this is not required but it is a good practice.
Edited by givmedew - 4/21/13 at 2:00am
Silence
(20 items)
 
Secondary Rig
(9 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Intel i7-5820k  ASRock x99 extreme 4 AMD R9 290X AMD R9 290X 
RAMHard DriveCoolingCooling
ballistix ddr4 dual channel Samsung 850 EVO 500GB DT 5noz CPU Waterblock XSPC Razor Full Cover GPU Block 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
XSPC Razor Full Cover GPU Block 4x120 Black Ice Xtreme GTX480 Swiftech MCP655 Danger Den Monsoon Pump/Reservoir 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Corsair Link Fan Controller Windows 8.1 Nixeus 2560x1440 Logitech G15 
PowerMouseMouse PadAudio
Kingwin PF-850 Ttesports Level10M Razer Vespula Sennheiser HD590 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5-2500k gigabyte z68xp-ud4 Gigabyte GTX 970 G1 Gaming DDR3 1600 4x2GB 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Western Digital Velociraptor 300GB w/ Intel RST... Corsair H100 Windows 8.1 1920x1200 HP 
Power
PC P+C 1000w 
  hide details  
Reply
Silence
(20 items)
 
Secondary Rig
(9 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsGraphics
Intel i7-5820k  ASRock x99 extreme 4 AMD R9 290X AMD R9 290X 
RAMHard DriveCoolingCooling
ballistix ddr4 dual channel Samsung 850 EVO 500GB DT 5noz CPU Waterblock XSPC Razor Full Cover GPU Block 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
XSPC Razor Full Cover GPU Block 4x120 Black Ice Xtreme GTX480 Swiftech MCP655 Danger Den Monsoon Pump/Reservoir 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
Corsair Link Fan Controller Windows 8.1 Nixeus 2560x1440 Logitech G15 
PowerMouseMouse PadAudio
Kingwin PF-850 Ttesports Level10M Razer Vespula Sennheiser HD590 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel i5-2500k gigabyte z68xp-ud4 Gigabyte GTX 970 G1 Gaming DDR3 1600 4x2GB 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Western Digital Velociraptor 300GB w/ Intel RST... Corsair H100 Windows 8.1 1920x1200 HP 
Power
PC P+C 1000w 
  hide details  
Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Intel Motherboards
Overclock.net › Forums › Intel › Intel Motherboards › Sabertooth z77 won't boot