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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 1133

post #11321 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by jim2point0 View Post

Can't seem to get my Qnix QX2710 to downsample at all frown.gif

answered your PM
post #11322 of 25888
Yeah. I saw smile.gif

Pretty frustrating that I can't get any downsampling resolutions to work at 60hz. A lot of games require that. And sadly, I'd rather have 4K even if it means I'm forced to use a 1080p monitor. You get spoiled by that IQ, and it looks much better than 2560x1440 native.

I know nothing about tweaking monitors, overclocking them (or video cards, for that matter), etc etc... so if that is required, I'm probably boned.
post #11323 of 25888
Well I got confirmation from the seller that the one I was looking at with tempered glass ("glossy") actually has a matte panel underneath. So that is pointless frown.gif However it is still the cheapest option. How hard is the matte coating to remove?? Or...should I just avoid all this and get a matte? I was just hoping for a better looking monitor since glare is probably not an issue for me, but putting a glass over the regular matte panel just makes more stuff in the way of the screen.
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post #11324 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spartan F8 View Post

...............................H.....................V
Active pixels...2560...............1440
Front porch.......48.....................2
Sync width.........32.....................2
Total pixels.....2595...............1444
(this was only possible after the new monoprice cable before with the stock cable i was only able to get to 2652x1445)
Pixel clock@120hz..............449Mhz (thought it was 443 but i guess i saw wrong)
Pixel clock@152hz..............569Mhz
...................................................^
this is the highest i have been able to go with CRU. If you use just the nvidia control panel and use CVT reduced you are at like 500Mhz already. With just the control panel i was able to get 134Hz which is 559Mhz before things got messy. Thinking of this as a kinda limit i tried to get the pixel clock as low as possible and then try again. This got me to 142hz which was just under the pixel clock of what i got before confirming they are very relative to each other. Next after adding the monoprice cable that was better than stock i got to 152Hz at just over the original 559Mhz showing some bandwidth improvement. Now since i hate uniformity issues i have set it back to 120hz but with the newly found total pixels and overall lower pixel clock. This reduced the "strain" i guess that was on the cable for the overclock and vastly decreased negative overclocking effects(gamma shift was better, uniformity was pretty much gone, etc)

Also using this same methodology i tried downsampling the screen to see how high the pixel count could go on this monitor. I am not going to get too much into it but i was able to get 4476x2342@30hz with an overall pixel clock of 561Mhz. Please be careful when downsampling though as it can cause the monitor to go into test mode and also corrupt the start resolution. If you do get where restarting the PC does not bring the picture back connect a separate monitor and boot windows, then connect the Qnix as secondary. After that you can switch it to primary and go on as normal. If anyone sees anywhere this can be improved PLEASE jump in. I have done a lot of reading but there could always be something i missed.

Hopefully this helps some people get 120hz or at least some better results at that refresh thumb.gif

EDIT: Fixed weird space removal

Are these the lowest timings you've been able to obtain? Is this pretty much like overclocking to find the smallest pixel count without being unstable?

EDIT:

I just tried this and whenever I input these values and try to test them my monitor just goes into a loop of colors and gradients. I'm guessing it isn't stable? I can tell my computer is still working underneath this veil of stubbornness. What do I do to take it out of this mode without having to restart my computer?
Edited by xNiNELiVES - 12/18/13 at 8:10pm
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post #11325 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by xNiNELiVES View Post

Are these the lowest timings you've been able to obtain? Is this pretty much like overclocking to find the smallest pixel count without being unstable?

EDIT:

I just tried this and whenever I input these values and try to test them my monitor just goes into a loop of colors and gradients. I'm guessing it isn't stable? I can tell my computer is still working underneath this veil of stubbornness. What do I do to take it out of this mode without having to restart my computer?

I think if you wait a minute itll reset.. not sure.


Anyways how much better is a monoprice cable than the one that came with this?

I have one that came with my dell but not sure how much better it is since I get the exact same results as the one that came with this one:mad:
post #11326 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by xNiNELiVES View Post

Are these the lowest timings you've been able to obtain? Is this pretty much like overclocking to find the smallest pixel count without being unstable?

EDIT:

I just tried this and whenever I input these values and try to test them my monitor just goes into a loop of colors and gradients. I'm guessing it isn't stable? I can tell my computer is still working underneath this veil of stubbornness. What do I do to take it out of this mode without having to restart my computer?

NO you cannot just use these timings
YES it is a bit like overclocking a CPU
YES you should learn what you are doing with custom timings before just pressing buttons
NO you cannot get out of that mode without a reboot
YES they were the lowest timing that worked for ME not you

Every monitor is different and this is a method for optimizing timings(for those who have read and know what they are doing). The flashing colors are you screen going to test mode since your blanking and optical blacks went out of an operating space, This is kinda like the monitor BSODing thus indicating not only instability but that you royally missed any possible mark of stability.

If i am not mistaken this is the third time i posted this and the third time a member has made this mistake. This is the hard way to get better results. Like using the northbridge, HT link, FSB and multiplier to overclock a CPU rather than JUST changing the multiplier. Maybe i can change this post up to get people to stop(maybe just remove the timings all together). Most people usually site around 460mhz with the pixels at 2652x1446ish.

There are many other very useful posts regarding timings and what worked for who, I pointed you in the right direction but you got to do a little research.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetlitheone View Post

I think if you wait a minute itll reset.. not sure.


Anyways how much better is a monoprice cable than the one that came with this?

I have one that came with my dell but not sure how much better it is since I get the exact same results as the one that came with this one:mad:

I have not seen the 1 minute thing before but i tempted to push my monitor into test mode to try it. The cable is always a variable but i think the main problem here is people just trying to put my timings in without actually optimizing.
post #11327 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spartan F8 View Post

NO you cannot just use these timings
YES it is a bit like overclocking a CPU
YES you should learn what you are doing with custom timings before just pressing buttons
NO you cannot get out of that mode without a reboot
YES they were the lowest timing that worked for ME not you

Every monitor is different and this is a method for optimizing timings(for those who have read and know what they are doing). The flashing colors are you screen going to test mode since your blanking and optical blacks went out of an operating space, This is kinda like the monitor BSODing thus indicating not only instability but that you royally missed any possible mark of stability.

If i am not mistaken this is the third time i posted this and the third time a member has made this mistake. This is the hard way to get better results. Like using the northbridge, HT link, FSB and multiplier to overclock a CPU rather than JUST changing the multiplier. Maybe i can change this post up to get people to stop(maybe just remove the timings all together). Most people usually site around 460mhz with the pixels at 2652x1446ish.

There are many other very useful posts regarding timings and what worked for who, I pointed you in the right direction but you got to do a little research.
I have not seen the 1 minute thing before but i tempted to push my monitor into test mode to try it. The cable is always a variable but i think the main problem here is people just trying to put my timings in without actually optimizing.

Thanks for replying, that was helpful. I'm sorry I'm another redundant commenter but how do you think I found this old post of yours on timings? I was researching.
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post #11328 of 25888
Another thing I wanna add here. I've been learning a little about this stuff and also if your timings are too low and you still see the screen as in you have signal. Sometimes even that is too low and you have to up the timings. I actually think this dell dvi cable is crap cause I can't get to timings most people can get to... I mean I can but once I'm in a game the damn game goes nuts if it's too low then if it's too high I get artifacts. Maybe I need to cave and buy another cable or try the one that came with this.
post #11329 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by xNiNELiVES View Post

Thanks for replying, that was helpful. I'm sorry I'm another redundant commenter but how do you think I found this old post of yours on timings? I was researching.

Here is i very common quite well working timings set. you might also try setting the vertical front porch and syn width to 1(has helped in the past).


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetlitheone View Post

Another thing I wanna add here. I've been learning a little about this stuff and also if your timings are too low and you still see the screen as in you have signal. Sometimes even that is too low and you have to up the timings. I actually think this dell dvi cable is crap cause I can't get to timings most people can get to... I mean I can but once I'm in a game the damn game goes nuts if it's too low then if it's too high I get artifacts. Maybe I need to cave and buy another cable or try the one that came with this.

DVI cable research....Another cable is always worth trying but don't buy any expensive brand name crap:
____________
This is more of an electrical argument than a research game. Any dual link DVI cable has a certain data rate that it is capable of and the size of the cable in terms of thickness is more about voltage over a distance. The thicker the cable the longer you can potentially send the data signal without data degradation. With overclocking you are pushing that data rate to its limits and cable quality does make a difference but it is not so much dependent of size, but is more on distance. The length of time the data is carried and the quality of the cable are the two main factors where size is a compensation for the length of time or distance the data is carried.

With this being said it is more important to get a very good quality short cable. If the thicker cables seem to have better results that would be worth considering in terms of how well the particular cables are made. The same could be said for a very short thin cable from a certain seller. This is why there are mixed reviews as no cable is equal(same as the monitor). The one thing that does show a very constant positive result is a shorter cable.

Over many of the tests i have done anything over 6ft seemed to have degraded results in stability per refresh regardless of the thickness. I originally bought 3 24AWG monoprice cables which had completely mixed results with one worse, one equal, and one better than the stock cable. After doing this i went up to work and tested about 30 DVI cables with the only constant positive factor being length.

After it was all said and done i found a random old DVI cable in a box at work that had no bells or whistles on ends, 24AWG and barely 3ft long that gave me the best results by a good margin(about 7hz over the best monoprice cable totaling 153hz). So go shorter than 6ft (as every cable i tried over 6ft barely hit 108hz) and get a few to try. Cables are not that expensive and if you have a few gamer friends there is likely several you can borrow and try to get the best overclock and don't worry too much about thickness.
____________
Edited by Spartan F8 - 12/18/13 at 8:51pm
post #11330 of 25888
If the cable suppirts 9+ gb/s itll do the job I bought 2 for 9 $ each at frys. The one that came with all of mine was the same quality

Also my glossy came (non tempered)
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