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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 117

post #1161 of 25893
My computer is in my office that doesn't have any windows, but it does have ceiling lights. Should I go straight for the glossy? or should I go right for the matte?
post #1162 of 25893
Hi i have a problem. I ordered a qnix2710 from bbc, but he send me a x-star dp2710 led

What should I do now? Ask for a redund? Stay whith the xstar? Ask for an exchange

I payed for a qnix not for am xstar

Enviado desde mi GT-N7000 usando Tapatalk 2
post #1163 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mehdi View Post

My computer is in my office that doesn't have any windows, but it does have ceiling lights. Should I go straight for the glossy? or should I go right for the matte?

I would go with matt if possible. I went with glossy, Mine is nowhere near a window, and the reflection from the light is annoying.
post #1164 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mehdi View Post

My computer is in my office that doesn't have any windows, but it does have ceiling lights. Should I go straight for the glossy? or should I go right for the matte?

The matte is a really good hybrid, it's a light light matte that basically eliminates glare but seems to have none of the downsides of harsher coatings I've seen (no visible grain/sparkle really from a 18-24 inches/normal viewing distance, you can find it by moving your head if you lean close to the screen to look for it). I'd recommend the matte in general.


So, my new 660 Ti cards are in and running SLI... I went straight for 120hz which worked well for around 15-20 minutes but then started showing some artifacting horizontal green/red lines. I know there are supposed to be some timings I can tighten up with the nVidia panel, right? 115hz seems rock-solid but I'd rather have 120 for the even number divisible by 24.

I have to say, BF3 at near-Ultra settings (2x MSAA, Ultra except shadows & effects high since they make no real visual difference and effects bogs down during large explosions) looks GORGEOUS.... at this refresh rate you no longer have blur during quick motion that makes it hard to tell what's going on, and I'm able to acquire targets way more easily. I tried toggling between 60 and 115hz and the difference is immediately obvious just moving my gun around, even at really high speeds (such as during a near-180) it's staying ghost/blur free. BELIEVE THE HYPE if you're on the fence about trying a high refresh rate panel such as these... no guarantees you get one that can OC well but, if you do... good gods is it amazing. The best comparison I can make is almost CRT-like motion and sharpness, all while maintaining IPS-type color and 2560x1440 res. Even zooming in with a 4x scope on my AEK-971 is staying crystal-clear and smooth, rather than looking like a blur as it centers the scope during the animation. And that is VERY quick motion.

I'm going to submit an update for my result in the OP's list once I've nailed down the OC, but needless to say, 96 is not my max wink.gifthumb.gif!

EDIT to note: I'm on a matte X-Star DP2710.
Edited by GoldenTiger - 5/13/13 at 8:26am
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post #1165 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by OneGun View Post

Is it worth the risk to get one of these?I just bought a monoprice cause they are 25 miles from my house.It is a great monitor but i cant OC at all.Would it be worth the risk to get a pixel perfect Qnix and hope to be able to OC it?What is the exact one that can be OCed?

If you look at page one of this thread, you can see what people's results have been trying to OC these monitors. There are also a few known issues, most of which are easily solved with a little tape. The image retention issue is the only one I'm aware of without a fix or workaround.

I have bitten the bullet and ordered one to replace my monoprice monitor. You'll have to decide for yourself.

If you decide to order one, it looks to me like the most overclockable is the Qnix, model QX2710 Evolution II. There is only one QX2710 by Qnix, so don't worry if the "Evolution II" part isn't in the listing.
post #1166 of 25893
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ssss69 View Post

Hi i have a problem. I ordered a qnix2710 from bbc, but he send me a x-star dp2710 led

What should I do now? Ask for a redund? Stay whith the xstar? Ask for an exchange?

I'd say to open it up and try it out. Check for deqd pixels and blb, and try and overclock it. If its good on all those categories than just keep it. If the monitor has any defects than ask about a return (at no cost to you) or a partial refund
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post #1167 of 25893
So i have something weird to report with my monitor. I have it at 96hz and i have an icm file for color calibration on it. i have a second monitor that is 1080p off to the side that i put monitoring software for benching gaming etc. When i leave the computer on an the screensaver sits for a couple hours i come back and the monitor is no longer detected with windows and it losses its calibration. The monitor is still usable but windows just sees it as a plug and play device that cannot be calibrated. I have to reboot for it to recognize and apply the calibration again. Anyone else have anything similar. Im also on 13.5b and patched in test mode.
post #1168 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by OneGun View Post

Thank you for the reply.I love this monitor and it has a year warranty and its a A1 guaranteed perfect panel.You are right i am going to keep this as i don't want to risk the chance of getting a bad monitor from korea and dealing with the hassle..Thank you sir for your honest opinion ..thumb.gif

Always glad to help a fellow geek out biggrin.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by jakubk View Post

I've just received my QNIX! No dead pixels, zero backlight bleeding (at least none that I'm aware of). Also the the whole monitor looks beautiful and I can control brightness via the hardware buttons (I though that they weren't supposed to work:D)

Overall, probably the most amazing screen I have seen in my life.
Quote:
Originally Posted by slh28 View Post

Congrats! The brightness buttons do work, they just change the brightness in really small increments and there's no OSD so maybe that's why some people thought they didn't work.
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenTiger View Post

Nice smile.gif. And yeah, the brightness buttons do work but they go as said in very small increments, though you can hold it down for several seconds to make it go faster tongue.gif and fine-tune after.

Congrats!!!
The button thing was a issue caused by sellers mentioning OSD on their ebay descriptions. Even most youtube reviews from high end sources have made the same mistake of believing it to be a fault.

A huge review post is on its way tongue.gif
post #1169 of 25893
Did anyone else have to fill out FCC form 740 to import their Qnix?

In the box for manufacturers name and address, what did you put? I can't find a non-Korean address for them, and where the address is listed on their site, it's not selectable as text for translation purposes.
post #1170 of 25893
Updated 20th May 8:13 AM Indian Standard Time.
This is a super long post with details that might have nothing to do with this monitors review. I shared everything I felt was worth it.

New Updates and discoveries are in Italic font.

Now for my celebration time biggrin.gif
Received my seXy-STAR an hour ago, I was charged 25% import duties and taxes. Luckily Green-Sum had marked the item as 90$ in value. I don't see any mention of it being marked as gift.

The Seller:
I purchased this panel from Green-Sum, on 8th May, and asked him half a dozen question before and after purchase, to all of which he replied in less then 24 hrs. Please know that all my question were asked in the afternoon and due to the time difference it was night in South Korea. I was provided with a tracking number on 9th May.

The Shipping:
The product was shipped 2 days after the purchase, which is impressive but compared to some other experiences on this forum is quite late. I am assuming they ship like 2 - 3 times a week and if you are lucky you will buy the product the day they are scheduled to ship.
The shipping company used in my case was DHL. I was pretty happy with that, as my last EMS shipped product never made it.
The other thing I like about DHL and FedEX is they take care of all the taxes and duties. You just have to pay the cash on delivery. No experience in this department with EMS.
There are reviews on the internet that suggests products shipped from DHL always goes through customs, unlike FedEx, through which you have a better chance of getting away without paying any duties or fees.

Here are the shipment tracking details just for reference :



Unlike what I had assumed, the product keeps travelling during Saturday and Sunday and its just the delivery that is made on weekdays.

I was called by the Delivery company, not DHL but a small scale service provider to whom the product was handed over, and they told me about the amount that I will have to pay and if I had it with me or needed some time or if I wanna return the product. I obviously asked them to come right away and also tried to offer some reward if the product was delivered in less then an hour. To which he laughed and said he is required to go through the list in a specific order and thanked me. I said that's alright but when can I expect the delivery, he gave me an estimate of 16:30 Indian time.
Surprisingly, the delivery man was right on time, not a minute late. He allowed me to take my time and check the product for any damages and defects and I offered him some tea, coffee.
I couldn't see any damages on the box. The panel was shaking even inside the box and was audible even when the box was moved slightly. Also the bubble wrapping was ripped at a few places. The courier guy said it was because of the clippers that they used to keep the product in place and in upright position.





Once everything looked ok, I signed for the product and paid the taxes and offered some reward anyway for his patience. Which he surprisingly denied. It was against their company policy. I know this isn't important but that boys honesty and dedication was worth mentioning.
Though the moment he left I realized I never inspected the base (not of the monitor but of the box), it had a huge dent in it doh.gif
I was just praying that it wasn't the panel/screen side.

The Packaging:
The whole box was pretty well wrapped and all the corners were tapped excessively. There was a fragile sticker on both sides.
But, once I removed the wrapping the box had fragile stickers again on the inside and the fragile sticker was blocking what seemed to be a shipping invoice.






Maybe the factory does ship it to these sellers and they check it themselves and only then choose the best one's for selling.
So maybe the Pixel Perfect are really tested and maybe the once's that weren't perfect were just damaged in the shipping.
The first heart attack I got was that the box was opened previously. Now either it went through the normal check or may be it was the imperfect monitor that didn't cleared the perfect monitor test axesmiley.png




Then I took a second glance on the damaged area of the box and it was a disaster!!! I kinda saw the panel right away but decided to not look at it. I was scared as hell, my mom was just next to me and if this thing is cracked she wouldn't mind putting few cracks on my skull.




They say you are an atheist until the plane starts to go down, I saw you are an atheist until you order one of these.

The Unboxing:
I then opened the box up and noticed that there was no protection what so ever on the panel. I mean even a small item penetrating through the box could have damaged the panel beyond repair. I was furious and took videos and pictures hoping to bash Green-Sum on such a stupid packaging.



There was this one box on top, it had the DVI-D dual link cable, there was the power adapter, the audio male to male cable and the power cord, which I choose to skip cause it has no ground pin.



I then removed the stand which was just lying behind the monitor and was the culprit making those noises inside the box.



Finally, I removed the panel out of the box and then out of the plastic covering and found it to be in perfect condition. The stand had some serious cracks though. The easy part was over, now I had to see if it works and looks that good.






Sorry for the blurry image, was holding the monitor from the right hand.

The Setup:
My computer table is puny compared to this monitor and setting it up was quite a pain, mostly because of the weak a** plastic case. Even picking up the monitor makes it feel like its gonna break in two. Touching it makes it wobble like a jello.
The monitor looked un-parallel with the table, I lifted it from left and it kinda rotated like .5 cm up :|
So I used my AC remote and balanced the two corners and that's it. The stand is way to stiff to bend on its own so thats great smile.gif





The Stand on the other hand is way to tight. I think almost at the breaking point of the plastic casing the stand decided to let go and move a bit. Until then I thought I was stuck with an immovable stand.
The DVI cable was a horror while attaching. that thing is so fat batman used it to Batclaw penguin.
Its hard to not worry about breaking something while you are attaching it and the screws just seems to take forever.

The Startup:
I remember and prayed and begged to every god I know and switched on the monitor.
Nothing happened.
I tried to sniff if something was wrong and or burning in the panel as I had done a pretty good job with the cables.
I though maybe it will work only when the pc is running, so I started my PC too..... drum.gif ....and nothing sad-smiley-002.gif
I told my mom she should go as it will take some time, she wanted to be there when it started for the first time. She asked me is it even working, I said yeah I need to calibrate it redface.gif
She went and I started loosing it.
It had to be because of no protection on the panel. I was going crazy.
I looked at the power brick and it had no light. So maybe it was just the brick, who know???
I then tried to tighten all the cords, just in case.
I ran it again and nothing.
I then just sit back and stared at it for a minute and thought maybe its the new power cord that I brought for the monitor.
I wasn't going to try the no-ground pin stock cord, so I ran and got it replaced, for some reason I didn't felt like testng my PSU's cable just to check.
Came home and reattached the power cord.
Switched it on
.
..
...and...
..
.
drum.gif
.
..
band.gif
..
.
Red Screen
.
Green Screen
.
Blue Screen
.
wheee.gif
Its on!!!!!

I quickly started the pc and even the bios was visible and that too in full screen mode (Is there a scaler on this thing ???)
The black background of the bios looked black, I mean it was pitch black BEAUTIFUL. No backlight bleed what so ever.
I paused the the pc right there and took the brightness to the highest and no light bleed, I brought it down to the lowest and no bleed again.
wheee.gifwheee.gifwheee.gifwheee.gifwheee.gifwheee.gifwheee.gifwheee.gifwheee.gifwheee.gifwheee.gifwheee.gifwheee.gifwheee.gifwheee.gifwheee.gif


At Lowest Brightness.

At Highest Brightness. Nope there is no bleeding. Its just the phone camera and the direction through which I took the shot.

I didn't cared for the dead/stuck pixels cause you don't notice them unless you go looking but backlight bleed is easier to notice and someone like me would end up starring at it for the rest of the monitors life.

My PSP had a dead pixel that my brother had noticed and I made him swear he would never tell me where it was. I accidentaly found that dead pixels 3 years later. That was a low resolution screen, this is freaking QuadHD who cares about one pixel when you have millions biggrin.gif

No backlight bleed, no dead/stuck pixel, no tints.
What about color patches? Lets resume the booting.
I had already setup a 2560x1440 wallpaper through my other monitor.
Windows starts, I enter my password.
Windows 8 Start Menu.
I click on the desktop and my god the beautifulness of this monitor just punched me in the face. drool.gif




I went in the personalization menu and used the solid color backgrounds to check for dead pixels. I wasn't looking for one or two but for patches of them. Found none. So looked for single pixels. Found NONE :whee:
No color patchiness either. If present then it must be just the normal patchiness that a led monitor has, which is invisible to naked eyes.
Did I received a perfect pixel monitor?!?!?!?
What about the panel play?
Yup, alot of it. The entire panel can move back and forth if you tilt the monitor. May be the consistent spacing and looseness of the bezel is responsible for no light bleed.

The Matte Coating:

These pictures were taken on May 14th, at 1:42 pm. The tubelight was switched on and the windows were open.
Please understand that the camera for some reason exagerrates the reflection. The tube light looks way more faded then visible in the second picture.
The coating is so great that in 6 years this is the first time I am using my pc with my curtains open biggrin.gif

The brightness was just 4 click above the lowest brightness, where your screen kinda goes completely black.




At MAXIMUM (did you read this word like in the Crysis game too tongue.gif) brightness.




The OverClocking:

OC'ed to 96Hz on my GTX 560. Doesn't go above 400Hz, even with the patch and CRU. It might not just be my GFX alone even my other specs are quite average.
OC'ed to 120Hz on a borrowed GTX 680. With nVidia control panel and patched drivers. Didn't tested for anything higher, didn't got much time to play with the card.

Update: The reason my GTX 560 didn't went above 400MHz was that the test mode was just visible on the desktop but it was never started for some reason.
So, these are the steps I took:
Reinstalled the drivers.
Patched the drivers.
Patched the SLI limits too, just in case.
Started the Test Mode.
Restarted the PC.
Created a 120 Hz custom Resolution in nVidia Control Panel and choose Automatic Timing.
It ran perfectly smooth.
I decided to see the highest I could go.
I went to 130Hz it wasn't supported.
So I changed the timing to manual and copied the information from this thread http://120hz.net/showthread.php?683-Overclocking-Quick-Start-Guide
I choose 130Hz instead of 120Hz and it was stable.
I went to 134 and it was stable too.
I went to 136 and started seeing one horizontal line in the center
At 137 the Screen Jiggled vertically and the lies increased to 5 -6.
I couldn't go higher then that.
I am running my monitor at 134 now but its only for testing and bragging rights.
I will run it at 60Hz normally.

Getting to 140Hz at 1440p biggrin.gif

Used these settings under manual:



Getting to 144Hz at 1080p biggrin.gif

BTW I can get to 144Hz stable with no flickering or anything on 1080p resolution, but that causes only the 1920x1080p segment to show, the rest of the screen shows weird colors. You don't select 1080p resolution, you select 2560x1440 and then in the custom resolution in nvidia you set the timing manually. In the timing windows you change 2560 to 1920 and 1440 to 1080.

Also, its worth noting that going from 60 to 134Hz/144Hz made no change in my GTX 560 's temperatures. It was at 45-46 all the time.


The Official Specs (Manual):

It shows the response time as 6ms in the manual. Also, these are HDCP compatible.




Movies look awesome, I mean the black is black again, unlike the grey-black on my Nexus 7 IPS screen.
Played FarCry 3. Had to switch off the pc and take a breath, I was so excited I needed a break, seriously smile.gif
Brilliant Screens.

I have kept this screen on since 6 hours now and there is no burn-in visible. I left the Internet Download Manager drag and drop box running all the while. Maybe its caused only when overclocked???

The System:
Processor:
Core 2 Duo
E8400
3GHz
age 6years.

Ram:
2x2GB Kingston
800MHz
age 6years.

MotherBoard:
Biostar
945GC-M7 TE v6.2
age 6years

Primary Hard Drive:
Hitachi
250 GB
7200 RPM
age 6years

Secondary Hard Drive:
Western Digital
WD20EARX
2TB
Green Drive
Age 8 Months

Graphics:
Point Of View
nVidia GTX 560
2TB
Age 1 year 4 months.
Edited by mspamed - 5/19/13 at 7:44pm
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