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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 120

post #1191 of 25864
hmm, the red/green flickering disappeared when I made a new 120hz profile with CRU and chose LCD reduced, now it works great, did I lose something when I chose LCD reduced?

thanks
Edited by Gilgam3sh - 5/14/13 at 12:59am
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post #1192 of 25864
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrigleyvillain View Post

Well it should go away...

And it's useful on the desktop too. Mouse tracking and such. I sure can't be bothered to remember to launch CRU all to switch all the damn time anyway. Ain't nobody got time fo that.
Yeah I do love how smooth the mouse is on desktop as well.
post #1193 of 25864
QNIX just got in!!! Got to take my pup to the vet, then I am going straight to set it up!! Fingers are crossed for good results! smile.gif
post #1194 of 25864
Quote:
Originally Posted by d3vour3r View Post

wow just notice some pretty bad screen burn after leaving the monitor on for a couple hours with nothing changing.

i wonder if the 96hz OC has anything to do with it :S

Quote:
Originally Posted by Timu View Post

Wait, you left 96hz on in the desktop? I'd rather use it just for games.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wrigleyvillain View Post

Well it should go away...

And it's useful on the desktop too. Mouse tracking and such. I sure can't be bothered to remember to launch CRU all to switch all the damn time anyway. Ain't nobody got time fo that.

Yeah I get the image retention/Screen burn too, but as far as I can see it´s only when its overclocked. The mouse and dragging windows does feel much smoother at higher HZ, I noticed the difference immediately. It does go away after some time of gaming though as far as i can tell. Just hope it doesn´t get worse.
post #1195 of 25864
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beatwolf View Post



Yeah I get the image retention/Screen burn too, but as far as I can see it´s only when its overclocked. The mouse and dragging windows does feel much smoother at higher HZ, I noticed the difference immediately. It does go away after some time of gaming though as far as i can tell. Just hope it doesn´t get worse.

hmmm

i might just have to go into CCC and change the hz when im gaming and leave it on 60hz when im just in desktop etc. its good in games like BF3 where u manage the hz in game cus u dont have to stuff around with it in desktop.
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post #1196 of 25864
My Xstar from Hulustar came in. Order last week on Thursday.

Slight BLB but haven't found any dead pixels yet.

Got it to 96hz easily, 120hz seems to have some flickering. Going to try to borrow some cables and see if it makes a difference.

Hoping the prices don't rise like the other Korean monitors so I can try to get a surround setup eventually.
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post #1197 of 25864
Thread Starter 
Congrats, we just hit the 100+ member mark! applaud.gif
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post #1198 of 25864
@mspamed, nice, I'm glad it got to you and you like it thumb.gif .
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post #1199 of 25864
Cool. I haven't even officially joined yet. Mainly as don't know max oc yet.
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post #1200 of 25864
From [H]. This guy had bad panel play; not sure about bleed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Methadras 
Well, pics aren't forthcoming. As I was taking them, I didn't check to see if they were viable or worthy and by the time I was done and look at them, they were all so dark as to be worthless. Sorry for the photo fail.

However, I will say that the mods were and are super easy to do. The hardest part is popping the plastic bezel and making sure you don't pull out the LCD without loosening the tabs on the metal bracket on both side. Also, be careful when you lift the entire LCD out of the back of the housing that you do it gently so you don't yank on the cables/wires attached to the connectors.

On the left and the right of the bottom inside of the plastic housing you will see 4 plastic nubs. Put 3 to 4 pieces of electrical tape over them. This will raise the metal bracket slightly enough to get rid of the panel play.

Also, taking the metal bezel off of the LCD will be slightly tricky. Remember the position of the left and right metal brackets. The top of the bracket should be flush with metal LCD bezel. Also, it should hang below the metal bezel slightly at the bottom. Remember it's orientation as well. Unscrew the metal plate covering the LCD PCA from the metal LCD housing. Use a flat head screw driver to pop off the bezel at the snap points. Patience is required here because you do not want to slip. Loosen the tabs all the way around and slowly pull the metal bezel from the LCD.

Once you have that done, then you can lay down electrical tape on the inside of the metal bezel. Hang the tape half way off the edge and fold it over. Do it to all 4 side. Once that's done, orient the metal bezel properly and then snap it back into place. Lightly tap over the metal snap areas to get them to bend around the snaps to hold the metal bezel in place because you may have bent them slightly to get it off.

Rescrew the brackets back on and tip the LCD upside down so you can plug in the connectors. Lay down the LCD and orient it gently. make sure the brackets set and snap in properly. Then put the front plastic bezel back on. Snap it into place. and viola, you should be done. I also removed the stand stub and the speakers too. I didn't need either of them.
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