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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 1191

post #11901 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boochy View Post

Ahh okay I picked the one I did, because it offered an outlet adapter for the US to use, unless StoreWithStory offers one as well? And did you purchase the Square Trade? I figured 1 year with the monitor itself is fine. And Drumz have you tried watching movies in regards to my first question? Thanks man

Keep in mind if you have to use the pixel patcher, it will break bluray playback. If you are only using one video card, ignore that as you won't have to use the patch anyway.
post #11902 of 25893
So ive run into a problem with my QNIX evo 2 D: So I was just browsing the web when all of the sudden my screen went very dim and has a faint flicker too it. Every other time you power on the monitor you can see it's proper brightness but it only lasts 1 seconds before going back to very dim. Is there a fix that can be done for this or a place that you can order parts from? I've had mine since about may and it overclocked to 120hz and stayed there about 50% of its life span.) No idea what to do, it makes me so sad that over a 300 dollar monitor just went very dark instead of some weirder problems that you'd just toss it away.
post #11903 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by decrescent View Post

So ive run into a problem with my QNIX evo 2 D: So I was just browsing the web when all of the sudden my screen went very dim and has a faint flicker too it. Every other time you power on the monitor you can see it's proper brightness but it only lasts 1 seconds before going back to very dim. Is there a fix that can be done for this or a place that you can order parts from? I've had mine since about may and it overclocked to 120hz and stayed there about 50% of its life span.) No idea what to do, it makes me so sad that over a 300 dollar monitor just went very dark instead of some weirder problems that you'd just toss it away.

Sometimes my Shimian gets grumpy and won't boot at 115hz, have you tried using the CRU reset? It should be in the program's folder.
Bruce
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Bruce
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
4670k Asus Z87 Pro HIS 7950 IceQ X2 2x2gb + 2x4gb DDR3 1333 
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Corsair TX750 V1 Antec 300 Black Illusion  Logitech G400s Xonar ST 
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post #11904 of 25893
I ordered shorter M4 machine screws to replace the ones that came with the VESA mount I ordered from Monoprice. The problem is that the screws that came with the mount are stuck in the VESA holes, and keep turning counter-clockwise without coming out because the screw holes are loose inside the bezel.

I vaguely remember someone else having this problem but can't remember if they were able to pull the screws out without removing the bezel. Does anyone remember?
post #11905 of 25893
I haven't tried a CRU reset mostly because I don't know how to go about doing that. What I tried to fix the dimming and flickering was taking off the 120hz over clock and putting it back to 59/60 and then testing it on another pc in the house. Same problem persisted so then I opened up the paneling and make sure all of the wires pushed in properly and nothing was loose. After that I put it back together and the same problem is still there and it makes me so sad. xD
post #11906 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by decrescent View Post

I haven't tried a CRU reset mostly because I don't know how to go about doing that. What I tried to fix the dimming and flickering was taking off the 120hz over clock and putting it back to 59/60 and then testing it on another pc in the house. Same problem persisted so then I opened up the paneling and make sure all of the wires pushed in properly and nothing was loose. After that I put it back together and the same problem is still there and it makes me so sad. xD

Try moving the Qnix to a different port on your computer, if that doesn't fix it then try starting windows with another screen and connect the Qnix AFTER getting to the desktop.
Quote:
Originally Posted by caenlen View Post

anyone got a color profile for a reading mode?
gaming is amazing, but reading anything burns my eyes on this monitor :/

Try increasing gamma to make blacks more apparent, or you can always go into windows appearance and turn up the font sizes for all the windows text(stock is 9 point font try 11 or 12). Lastly try using "cleartype" text tool.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fouBelieve View Post

Hi sorry for the noob questions but if anyone can please help. I need to buy a cheap GPU to test my monitors, will these work with DVI-I?

1.
In the eBay graphics that they have, it has a X for DVI-I and says will only work with DVI-D.
Can anyone please confirm if it works with DVI-I or only DVI-D?

2.
It also says will not work with laptops. If I find a laptop with a dedicated GPU (eg. gt650m, or anything not integrated HD) will it work as well?

3.
If you use a VGA to DVI conversion adapter, will it still display properly?

4.
If I'm using dual monitors, one for gaming and one for web browsing beside it, should I overclock both to the same speeds?
Or should I just overclock the gaming one and leave the other one? Will this damage my GPU or monitor in any way being different HZ speeds?

1. Most video cards have ports that can have DVI-I or DVI-D connected to them. Take a look at the connectors on your device and match it to the picture. You may find it will work with both.

2. It is possible that this would work but i would make sure that the dedicated graphics card still has the internal scaler built into it. The scaler is the part that is needed for picture, as long as your device has one you just need the right port.

3. NO VGA gets pretty crappy past 1080p, even if it did work somehow it would look terrible.

4.
A) You should overclock to your hearts extent. It may be beneficial to have the web browsing monitor at 96hz or lower to prevent image retention on top borders of the browser.
B) This is completely up to you, i would say do a lot of reading on the potential side effects, how to fix them and then make an informed decision.
C) Not at all, graphics cards are designed for these potential scenarios.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZealotKi11er View Post

Is 96Hz noticeable? Also does overclocking have an effect in the life of the panel and circuitry?

This is going to be different from person to person but many studies have shown that ANY refresh a good deal over 60hz IS much smoother to the majority of individuals. I can tell the difference between 60hz and 75hz so 96hz is a lot smoother. 120hz makes 60hz look like a picture slide show.

There is no proof of overclocking effecting monitor life span but it stands to reason it might. This is going to be more about the electronics of the panel mainly the PCB. The Qnix PCB is rated for 450mhz so it stands to reason that any data rate being transferred under 450mhz should be fine. With that being said 96hz should have no life span effect at all. 120hz however could have an effect with stock timings since the pixel clock is around 500mhz. If you optimize your timings you can get this down to around 460mhz.

With only 10mhz over the rated ceiling it is very likely that it would still have no noticeable effect on life span. The difference would be somewhere in the ballpark of 27 years instead of 30 years(example only). So bottom line either stick with 96hz or optimize your timings if you are worried about your panel's longevity.
Edited by Spartan F8 - 12/30/13 at 7:28pm
post #11907 of 25893
Quote:
You can definitely hit 120Hz solid with some minor adjustments. Try lowering your overall pixel to 2659 and lines to 1445 and see if that helps.

Thanks, but I can't seem to get a stable 120hz. I've tried yours and multiple other settings from this thread and from 120hz.net. Anything above about 110hz gives lots of unstable green lines. I kept messing around and all of sudden I was just getting black screens in Windows even after restarting, so I had to reconnect my other monitor, reset and redo the 90 and 100hz settings. I was afraid of doing some kind of permanent damage. Maybe I'll try again after I digest all this more (I've never worked on OCing monitors before).
post #11908 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by lang15 View Post

Thanks, but I can't seem to get a stable 120hz. I've tried yours and multiple other settings from this thread and from 120hz.net. Anything above about 110hz gives lots of unstable green lines. I kept messing around and all of sudden I was just getting black screens in Windows even after restarting, so I had to reconnect my other monitor, reset and redo the 90 and 100hz settings. I was afraid of doing some kind of permanent damage. Maybe I'll try again after I digest all this more (I've never worked on OCing monitors before).

You will not do damage. If you get stuck boot up with a different monitor and then reconnect the Qnix AFTER getting windows. This will always get you a picture back. After reading your posts it sounds like you might want to try a different cable, try another port on the gfx card and lastly try re-installing the drivers, patch(full), and then re-test. A improper driver install or weak cable can make a difference in OC ceiling.
post #11909 of 25893
Is a higher refresh rate noticeable if your framerate isn't surpassing 60 FPS? I imagine that wouldn't really do anything in that case.
post #11910 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by Torethyr View Post

Is a higher refresh rate noticeable if your framerate isn't surpassing 60 FPS? I imagine that wouldn't really do anything in that case.

You will likely not see a difference between 30FPS@60hz vs 30FPS@120hz but having a 96hz or 120hz refresh will cut down the overall blanking period thus lowering the response time which could give you slightly less motion blur.
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