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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 1263

post #12621 of 25887
I can push my screen to at 120Hz. Is there anything I should do to check if it's stable so that i don't break my Monitor. I can do 96Hz. I just want to be able to enjoy an even smoother experience. So What is the signs I should be looking for. on 96Hz I get a minor buzz but barely notice it and has been running fine for about 5-7 months now. i tried pushing 120hz the other day and my screen was displaying everything fine just tested bf4 and was running fine at 120FPS.
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post #12622 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by TXTech View Post

Ergotron Neo-Flex 33-310-060

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824994001

It is adjustable for different weights. Works like a charm. Love it with the X-Star.

I actually looked at that stand but I didn't like the price. For that price I ordered two of the Monoprice ones including shipping. The Newegg one is probably a little better but oh well...
post #12623 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by mmille24 View Post

I purchased a monitor from Dream Seller

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330932578190?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

There's a line down the whole monitor. About time I turned the monitor on and tested it, it's now over the 14 day period. The seller refuses to cover it under his/her return policy and wants me to pay 150 dollars to ship it back. Do I have any recourse here? Is there anyway to fix it myself?

That's odd. I purchased my X-Star from dream-seller and had no problems. Monitor is perfect. I even ordered a 2nd one. I'd recommend dream-seller.

Why did you wait 14 days before testing it? I'm sure he would have been more responsive if you had tested it within the return period. The auction clearly states the return window is 14 days.
post #12624 of 25887
Hey guys i have bought the Spyder 4 pro monitor calibrating tool....and i would like some advice from anyone that uses these tools on how to set up my monitor for calibration ...
normally you would factory reset the monitor......however there is no OSD on the QNIX2710 to factory reset it before calibration...

So right now i have my Qnix running at 120hz and am using NCX ..."120hz 2.2 gamma ICC Profile"....due to the gamma shift at 120hz.....however i want to calibrate it myself so the ICC profile and colors are correct for my actual monitor using my own ICC file which i created with my new Spyder Pro...

So before i calibrate would and to put the monitor into a factory reset ...(out of the box mode).....do i deselect NCX ICC profile NCX ...("120hz 2.2 gamma ICC ").....that i am currently running?

Or do i load the .."sRGB IEC61966-2.1"...profile before i calibrate?.....i think this profile windows makes when you first connect a monitor?.....

Or do you have to deselect all ICC profiles in windows color management and tell windows not to use any profiles for the calibration process?

Any help from someone with monitor calibrating experience would be welcome....Thanks
Edited by lawson67 - 3/11/14 at 1:11pm
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post #12625 of 25887
I used to work for a print shop and did a lot of monitor calibrations. The rule is that you always want to do the calibration with no profile selected. This is because you want to build a base profile that corrects the monitors color display. I always start with as baseline of a setting as I can. Also sometimes you will want to do the calibration a few times you will be surprised how different each run can be. Another tip for calibrating is to keep the light level in the room to your typical settings for when you use the computer. This means that if you game with the lights off then that is how you should calibrate. The light levels of the room will effect the profile.

Now I also had the benefit of working with 2 guys who had great eyes for color (that is what they do for a living) and they would manually tweek all my profiles after they were created to get them just right. The tool will get you close, but I have never seen one that gets it perfect.
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post #12626 of 25887
Alright, so last night when I checked, the monitor was supposed to get here Monday. But instead, I saw the box sitting at my front door as soon as I got home. One thing that concerned me a bit was that there was no protective wrapping or anything on the box itself, it was just the box of the monitor. Anyways, I took everything out, taking pictures as I went, inspected it for physical damage. Everything looks okay so far. Right now, I've ran into a minor. I thought I had the converter that would convert the Korean plug to the USA standard, but it looks like it converts it from a different country? It won't go in. Can someone link me something from Amazon that I can order today with one day shipping and get it tomorrow?

Thank you.
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post #12627 of 25887
The power brick uses a standard "kettle" cable (the same type PSUs use). If you have spare one it will work.
http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-03130-Universal-IEC320C13/dp/B0000510ZO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1390592261&sr=8-1&keywords=kettle+lead
post #12628 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitemarks and bloodstains View Post

The power brick uses a standard "kettle" cable (the same type PSUs use). If you have spare one it will work.
http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-03130-Universal-IEC320C13/dp/B0000510ZO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1390592261&sr=8-1&keywords=kettle+lead

Thank you so much! That worked! I'd rep you, but it seems like you don't get to be repped.
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post #12629 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by Warsteiner View Post

I used to work for a print shop and did a lot of monitor calibrations. The rule is that you always want to do the calibration with no profile selected. This is because you want to build a base profile that corrects the monitors color display. I always start with as baseline of a setting as I can. Also sometimes you will want to do the calibration a few times you will be surprised how different each run can be. Another tip for calibrating is to keep the light level in the room to your typical settings for when you use the computer. This means that if you game with the lights off then that is how you should calibrate. The light levels of the room will effect the profile.

Now I also had the benefit of working with 2 guys who had great eyes for color (that is what they do for a living) and they would manually tweek all my profiles after they were created to get them just right. The tool will get you close, but I have never seen one that gets it perfect.

Thank you very much for your reply....what you say makes complete scene but i just wanted some reassurance from someone like yourself that knows and understand the process....as i do not and want to learn....so can you kindly read though below my interpretation of your instructions and the process i need to go though to ready my monitor for calibration....and also of course correct me if i am wrong.

So before i calibrate you would suggest i go into windows Color management and deselect the ICC profile i am currently using right now that corrects the gamma shift at 120hz .....and also ..."Untick"... the box in windows color management that says...."Use my settings for this device"....that surly would put windows and my current ICC profile out of the equation.....and the monitor would be running on its own at this point correct?....then once the spyder has calibrated the screen and produced a ICC profile i would the re-tick the box in color management and use my newly created profile?....is that the correct process?......thanks
Edited by lawson67 - 1/24/14 at 1:07pm
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post #12630 of 25887
Yes that is correct although depending on the software you use it may automatically apply the profile for you once it is created. I know the one I used did.
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