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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 1284

post #12831 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by lawson67 View Post

I hope you enjoy your new Qnix as much as i have enjoyed mine....mine arrived in 4 days from time of purchase and i also bought mine from AccessoriseWhole as well..."the pixel perfect" ...it was great other than some backlight bleed which most have and that is normally because they are sat in a bent metal frame...i had to take mine out of the frame and lay the frame on a flat work surface and use brute force with my hands to straighten the frame, using the flat surface as a reference for straight...this totally cured mine Backlight bleed and gave me an A+ grade monitor for £200....i could not be happier

I paid £35 import tax as i asked AccessoriseWhole to ship it with an invoice calming it was worth $200....however i did think i have got away with this as i had the monitor for over 1 week then FEDEX sent me a bill for the income tax in the post....i also found the PSU on mine was getting a little to hot...so i swapped it out for a little over a tenner and bought a high quality Channel Well Technology (CWT) PSU to replace that...which to me is peace of mine as Channel Well Technology (CWT) are one of the worlds top PSU makers making most of Corsairs PSU....also i like to have peace of mind knowing that i have quality regulated power going to my monitor...no nasty power spike to blow it up!

Also it overclocks right up to 130hz with no artifacts...i have not tried any higher..the gamma does rise also at 120hz making the screen darker...but my spyder 4 pro corrects this perfectly and even at 120hz can produce 99% of sRGB....at 60hz the out of the box colours are amazing with a white point of 6551k...nearly perfect....they are great monitors...if you need a 120hz corrected Gamma icm profile let me know and i will post you one.


http://www.amazon.co.uk/Genuine-CWT-Technology-Monitors-equipment/dp/B004HCCVLI

Yes, it's a great monitor for the price, I did not pay the extra £30-£50 for a perfect pixel monitor on advice from this thread. From my preliminary inspection there is no backlight bleed, or dead/stuck pixels -- I assume the monitors are shipped at random from the warehouse.

In regards to the PSU problem, yes I'll probably upgrade to a PSU for peace of mind, although after ~3 hours of usage, it's not hot on touch.

Here's hoping for 120Hz, I'll report back results, if any.
post #12832 of 25887
Ok so first off Hello OCN, and thank you for this amazingly detailed thread. This thread alone is the sole reason I have purchased this excellent monitor and I could not be happier with it.

I have now had the monitor for a few days now and I thought it was about time to overclock it and see what Hz it could put out. So I followed the guide on this thread and I managed to get it stable with no frame skipping at 110Hz. Then I updated my drivers to the latest 13.12, upon restarting windows, it booted up into some strange monitor test image cycle and will not allow me to use windows

Someone please help me sort this out as.

EDIT: Lol realise i'm an idiot and I just need to patch the new drivers doh.gif
Edited by Pingu12 - 1/30/14 at 1:00pm
post #12833 of 25887
Yes of course i will put them in a zip file.....i have made a few at different brighness.... because as you change the brightness you really need to recalibrate for that brightness if you are fussy....i have labelled my ICM files to the brightness i created them at...so for example a brightness of about.. "120 cd/m"....would be from a totally black screen using the BRI + key about 10 clicks up.....this should be about 120 cd/m and is the brightness recommended for photographers....i find this to dim for every day use...but for real hardcore photographers this is the brightness they use....

So i will pack a few for you to try all using the standard of 2.2 gamma and 6500k white point...they will all be labelled to which brightness "cd/m" i created them at....use this guide to help you set the correct brightness

So for ....brightness of 120 cd/m 10 clicks up on the BRI + button from a black screen

170 cd/m is BRI + button from a black screen 16 clicks up

200 cd/m BRI + button from a black screen 18 clicks up

max is flat out brightness

I have also added some 96hz profiles also...enjoy thumb.gif

Edit: i will also upload this handy little tool to apply your profiles with..(Color Keeper)

Also for anyone who wonders why there ICM profiles wont load on a reboot even tho they are set to system default...its becaurse microsoft have desgined Color management in a confusing way... follow this Guide to load your ICM profiles at windows start up

works for windows 7 and windows 8

1.Control panel > Type "Color" in the search box > Click "Color Management"
2.Select the display you want.
3.Make sure "Use my settings for this device" is ticked.
4.Click "add" then "browse" and find the profile you want to load.
5.Click "ok"
6.Find that profile in the list and select "set as default profile".
7.Spend hours searching the internet, asking questions, clicking, clicking on everything, and wondering why nothing is happening.
8.Click on the "advanced" tab, then "change system defaults".
9.Click on the new "advanced" tab and click "Use Windows Display Calibration".
10.Hit your head against a wall wondering why Windows would allow you to enter detailed settings for calibration and then bury the option that would actually apply any of them.
Steps 7 and 10 are optional.

Qnixicmprofiles.zip 20k .zip file

CPKeeper.zip 3554k .zip file
Edited by lawson67 - 1/30/14 at 2:44pm
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TSSTcorp CDDVDW SH-224DB H80i Windows 8.1 Pro  QNIX QX2710 LED [Matte] Perfect Pixel 27" @ 1... 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Corsair K70 - Cherry MX Brown Corsair 1000W RM1000 Zalman z11 plus  Corsair Vengeance M95 Performance Mouse 
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post #12834 of 25887
Hi guys,

My Qnix has been overclocked to 110hz for several months now, but suddenly I'm having an issue where after I log into windows my screen glitches with coloured lines. As shown in screenshot:



This happens 80% of the time after I log into windows, I have to reboot then, and keep rebooting until it doesn't happen. I used CRU "reset-all" and it doesn't happen anymore.

These were my setting for CRU when the problem was occuring:



Any ideas what I can change to stop this?
post #12835 of 25887
Ok after my stupid episode earlier I am now back at a stable 110Hz and no frame skipping of any kind.

Also would just like to share with you my QNIX experience.

First of all I am from the UK and I ordered my screen from bigclothcraft (via eBay) for a total of £205 with free DHL express postage and an £18 charge for import from DHL. If anyone in the UK is also looking to purchase a QNIX QX2710 then I could not rate bigclothcraft any higher.

My monitor arrived with zero dead or stuck pixels and only minor backlight bleed which is never noticeable. It took a total of four days from purchase of the item from Korea to my door including a 15hr stop in customs at Heathrow. The supplier also listed on the invoice the items value as £61 and therefore I avoided any major import costs, which was excellent.

All in all I am very impressed with the monitor, the resolution and refresh rate make it absolutely outstanding for the price, and I could defiantly never go back to a 1080 monitor.

Once again thank you OCN for this highly detailed thread that has helped me out to no end.
post #12836 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by lawson67 View Post

Yes of course i will put them in a zip file.....i have made a few at different brighness.... because as you change the brightness you really need to recalibrate for that brightness if you are fussy....i have labelled my ICM files to the brightness i created them at...so for example a brightness of about.. "120 cd/m"....would be from a totally black screen using the BRI + key about 10 clicks up.....this should be about 120 cd/m and is the brightness recommended for photographers....i find this to dim for every day use...but for real hardcore photographers this is the brightness they use....

So i will pack a few for you to try all using the standard of 2.2 gamma and 6500k white point...they will all be labelled to which brightness "cd/m" i created them at....use this guide to help you set the correct brightness

So for ....brightness of 120 cd/m 10 clicks up on the BRI + button from a black screen

170 cd/m is BRI + button from a black screen 16 clicks up

200 cd/m BRI + button from a black screen 18 clicks up

max is flat out brightness

I have also added some 96hz profiles also...enjoy thumb.gif

Edit: i will also upload this handy little tool to apply your profiles with..(Color Keeper)

Also for anyone who wonders why there ICM profiles wont load on a reboot even tho they are set to system default...its becaurse microsoft have desgined Color management in a confusing way... follow this Guide to load your ICM profiles at windows start up

works for windows 7 and windows 8

Control panel > Type "Color" in the search box > Click "Color Management"
Select the display you want.
Make sure "Use my settings for this device" is ticked.
Click "add" then "browse" and find the profile you want to load.
Click "ok"
Find that profile in the list and select "set as default profile".
Spend hours searching the internet, asking questions, clicking, clicking on everything, and wondering why nothing is happening.
Click on the "advanced" tab, then "change system defaults".
Click on the new "advanced" tab and click "Use Windows Display Calibration".
Hit your head against a wall wondering why Windows would allow you to enter detailed settings for calibration and then bury the option that would actually apply any of them.
Steps 7 and 10 are optional.

Qnixicmprofiles.zip 20k .zip file

CPKeeper.zip 3554k .zip file

Colors are too warm if you want I can upload an image with my SLR and show you thumb.gif

NCX profile is the best one
post #12837 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by Feyla View Post

Hi guys,

My Qnix has been overclocked to 110hz for several months now, but suddenly I'm having an issue where after I log into windows my screen glitches with coloured lines. As shown in screenshot:



This happens 80% of the time after I log into windows, I have to reboot then, and keep rebooting until it doesn't happen. I used CRU "reset-all" and it doesn't happen anymore.

These were my setting for CRU when the problem was occuring:



Any ideas what I can change to stop this?
How about 96Hz? Give that a try.
post #12838 of 25887
Kinda scaring me. I might downclock back to 60Hz until more reports come in after a long period of use under OC.
    
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post #12839 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by lolana View Post

I live in germany and had ordered the PP version for 250€ with free shipping from storewithstory.
It was marked as a 100$ gift, but the customs duty wanted a real paypal record of payment.
After sending it I had to pay 47,50€ VAT, so the monitor costed a total of 297,50€ (= a bit more than 400$).
It has one dead pixel in the very top right corner and some noticable backlight bleed in the bottom right area and overclocked without any extra adjustments with standard timings to 120hz on my hd7870 card with stock cable and CRU.
So you pay 250€ via paypal and later on 47,50€. Did you get a post mail from the administration which informed you about the VAT or how did it happen?
post #12840 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by TelFiRE View Post

Kinda scaring me. I might downclock back to 60Hz until more reports come in after a long period of use under OC.

You're fine trust me.

Anyone have any experience with accessorieswhole?

Looking to order one tonight or tomorrow so I can send this one in and get my money from Squaretrade.
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