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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 132

post #1311 of 25891
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrigleyvillain View Post

I knew you would at least try to OC it and, if you hadn't, I would have been disappointed! Hmm I will look more closely at the port, thanks. Again, this first happened when I tried the seemingly higher quality cable which is also heavier. But nothing changed this time that should have caused this (or anything, for that matter). I did have it's cable disconnected from my GPU between the last time it worked and now so I could clean my loop and de-dust but that's it. It stayed powered off with red LED during this time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeadGivaway View Post

If you have another monitor you can use, let's try this:

Boot up with the other monitor. Once in Windows, reset the pixel clock and everything back to stock. Delete the custom resolution for the Qnix, just in case. With the Qnix powered off, hook it up to the dvi port. Turn Qnix on. See if windows detects it (probably requires a reboot). Reboot. Display properties, see if it shows both monitors.

I'm also thinking you may have an issue with a poor soldering job on the DVI port, and maybe when you tried the other cable the solder was damaged. Anyways man don't panic I'll do what I can to help. thumb.gif

Edit: Also very important: I learned the hard way with my Sceptre, DVI is not hot-swappable. Never attach or disconnect a DVI port with the monitor powered on!!!

Yup, swapping dvi ports like that could have fried something. Try to use an eraser and rub it on the pins hard. I know its kinda stupid but just try it.
Not just DVI, when it comes to monitors and also your graphic card you should never hot swap.
Also, please check, on your own responsibility, when the monitor is on, without the cable attached to the Graphic card, does touching your fingers to the dvi male pins of the DVI cable gives you a shock. I repeat, on your own responsibility, it's a 27" monitor, if your ground circuit isn't connected the shock can be either just tingly or very bad. Or you can always use professional tools to do that.
If you do get a shock then you have definitely damaged the port and or cable while swapping. That's if you are lucky. I blew 2 capacitors on my gt 8600 once while swapping a VGA port.
Also, if trying the touching the pins technique I would recommend having someone around and recording it. If the shock is pretty bad then the video will be pretty awesome tongue.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by brightbus View Post

I need to see if I can get to 144hz or not. I got to 122 no problem. Haven't tried any higher yet.

I would recommend people stick too 120Hz or 96Hz. Simply because we don't know the long term effects of OCing on these PCB's. Also, 120 is more then enough for your daily use, movie watching and gaming needs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tattashot View Post

Well my issue with the power unit still persists. I've noticed that at maximum brightness the unit makes a weird noise like something may be burning inside ( but there is no smell) and the monitor itself will randomly turn off and back on every few minutes. If I turn the monitor to half brightness then I get none of those issues.

I emailed the seller green-sum last evening but he hasn't responded back yet.

The power brick is definitely faulty here, making noice is ok. It might be a bad capacitor or a resistor. It just means, it is gonna die soon in like 5 - 6 months. But the switching on off thing can cause a serious issue. I will recommend getting a new brick right away.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coolio831 View Post

I was able to reach 120Hz with your method, I guess test mode was not enabled after all, even though it showed test mode. I'm happily sitting on 120Hz from the 100Hz limit i thought I had. +1

You Sir, are welcome!!! Appreciate the +1...Enjoy!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hegro View Post

Hello, I was wondering if you guys could point me in the right direction. I originally was going to buy a Tempest 27" monitor but plans have changed and I am in the market for a QNIX. I have heard good things and like what I see so far. I am ready to buy today just want some input before I purchase.

What is currently the best priced/value/safest seller to buy a Perfect Pixel Matte Qnix QX2710 from? I have always heard good things about Green-Sum and hulustar as well. Last couple pages on here has someone receiving a bad monitor from bigclothcraft.

Once again, ready to buy today and would like to keep it under $350. Thanks for any help guys!

I would recommend going with an X-Star, not because I purchased it but because I have read all the korean monitor forums and everytime a new brand comes out, all the monitors at first turn out to be great, like yamakasi, crossover, shimian, qnix and now the X-star.
In the poll above you can see that x-star users are a lot less and thats exactly the reason why I brought the x-star.
There was a shipping invoice on my monitor and there was another shipping invoice on the inside and my box was opened up before which was clear, check my review for details, lined in my signature. So, the monitor was shipped to the seller who then checked and shipped it to me.
So, if they want more sales they will need good reviews, so most of the earliest purchases are the best handpicked monitors.
Now think about it, my monitor wasn't pixel perfect, so why did he checked my monitor?
So they basically check all the monitors and the one's that are dead on arrival are sent back but the one's with light bleed and dead pixels are left behind cause the Korean policy on dead pixels is that up to 10 are allowed.
Now you ask yourself, if you were a businessman would you sell the perfect monitors first and try to create a hype on this forum, which by the way is a goldmine of free promotion for these companies, or would you send out those monitors with 10 dead pixels???
With some devine help, I ended up with a perfect pixel monitor, no bleed, no tint, amazing screen, very stiff stand and a great power brick, which doesn't get hot and makes no sound. Which I easily OCed to 120 and later to 135 stable and at 1920 x 1080 it reaches 144hz stable. All this for 309.9$ and free shipping and 25% cutom duty which wasn't much as Green-Sum had marked it at a lower value.
If I were you, I would consider the X-star and I will order it quick.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fagoatse View Post

can somebody confirm that there's a ~0.2 cm black bar going across the top edge so the panel actually does not fill the whole screen?
Quote:
Originally Posted by fagoatse View Post

hmm, check the pic i found in this thread - http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/lightbox/post/19959799/id/1459573
exactly like this, so not everybody got it? either it happend when i was trying to get rid of light bleeding by moving the monitor a bit or it's been always there and im being paranoid.
Yup, I have it too and yeah that's is my monitors pic, its pretty easy to fix but I never notice it so I never added the tapes when I opened the monitor up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrigleyvillain View Post

Cool; that's all good standard troubleshooting...but again I'm almost certain it is not Windows or any software. I do still have my GTX 480 I can try as well though at this point I am definitely leaning towards it being the physical integrity of the port itself.
No sounds like this means your panel needs to be raised. Mine does too (middle task bar icons lower than those on edges) but it is not so low that any image is cut off on the top.

nVidia drivers are notorious to leaves behind residue. As a last alternative, I will definitely recommend doing a clean install of windows on either a new drive or a different pc before you even think about sending it back, cause they will obviously check it on a clean install and if it works they won't pay you shipping and might return the same monitor.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Paps.pt View Post

To who ever ordered this monitor and lives in the European Union: did customs asked you any Certificate?

Wow!!! no help yet. Has no one from European Union ordered this thing yet?!?!?!
post #1312 of 25891
Sorry, double post.
Edited by mspamed - 5/15/13 at 12:28pm
post #1313 of 25891
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paps.pt View Post

Can someone point me to the manual pdf of the monitor or check if there is CE printed on it, please?

There is, as well as my power brick.
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post #1314 of 25891
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fagoatse View Post

can somebody confirm that there's a ~0.2 cm black bar going across the top edge so the panel actually does not fill the whole screen?

Each edge around the screen has a gap that has no image, It is just how the screen is built. Sounds like your screen is sitting low in the monitor casing. Take a look at the wntrsnowg mod in the OP
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post #1315 of 25891
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-X-STAR-DP2710-LED-27-Matte-Screen-QHD-PLS-Computer-Monitor-2560x1440-DVI-D-/130889054084?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e79987784

Okay, I am going to be purchasing this monitor within the next hour or so. At least by tonight. Can anyone give me reason to get something else or steer me towards another seller? Thanks. thumb.gif
post #1316 of 25891
No that looks good. Nice price too; paid $317 from same seller for my QNIX two weeks ago.

@mspamed Good advice but I am telling you guys this is not software. I could accomplish the same by booting a Linux LiveCD or any other OS. Cant even see my BIOS. My card does output BIOS screen to another monitor though that was only 1280x1024.

I am confident it is my DVI port somehow; I just hope I can rectify it.
Edited by wrigleyvillain - 5/15/13 at 1:53pm
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post #1318 of 25891
Quote:
Originally Posted by tse69 View Post

How trustworthy is bigclothcraft?

Had a fairly borked QNIX 2710 arrive a while back, video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9-f1Rspzpvc

As you can see, especially toward the end, the video signal is all messed up. I've got everything else right, tried multiple cables on multiple ports on my card (gtx 570). Hooked it up to a friend's PC, same result.

My understanding with modern monitors using digital signal is that they should just work, or not work at all.

So after much back-and-forth, I finally got them to pay for an exchange. Now they're telling me that the monitor is fine on their end.

Have I missed something? Driver issue somehow? Am I being trolled? I'm pretty close to opening a paypal reversal but then I look at all the positive comments about them, I have absolutely no reason to distrust them.

Any opinions would be greatly appreciated.

I'm not sure if this is for everyone but my monitor in resolution controls says "1. Display device on: DVI" and under Devices and Printers it just says "Generic PNP Monitor". Is this the same for you and others or does it say QNIX QX2710 etc..
post #1319 of 25891
Yeah Generic PnP unless you install an INF like the Catleap 2B OC one that people not using the CRU need for games to use the higher refresh. "Monitor driver" INFs simply tell the OS what resolutions and Hz the display supports. CRU takes care of all that for you, apparently.

Well I managed to get a 1600P 30" working at work that was giving me signal trouble as well. Hopefully my luck continues at home.
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post #1320 of 25891
Quote:
Originally Posted by wrigleyvillain View Post

Yeah Generic PnP unless you install an INF like the Catleap 2B OC one that people not using the CRU need for games to use the higher refresh. "Monitor driver" INFs simply tell the OS what resolutions and Hz the display supports. CRU takes care of all that for you, apparently.

Well I managed to get a 1600P 30" working at work that was giving me signal trouble as well. Hopefully my luck continues at home.

For some reason, when I used CRU my frames would cap at 60. I did have the Catleap 2B OC inf installed tho... I ended up using the NVCP to set my Hz and ultimately resorted in 120fps cap with v-sync.
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