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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 1510

post #15091 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by taem View Post

Well that doesn't sound very good lol. What I find with my qnix 1440p is that at this res I don't really need anti aliasing. It's now the first thing I lower/turn off in game settings to improve framerates.

What's the performance hit of running this virtual 4k supersampling?
Yeah, downsampling is essentially a form of anti-aliasing, so running AA on a downsampled monitor (eg, 4K on 1440p) is somewhat redundant.

Hm... The math works out that 4k (QFHD/3840x2160) is 125% more difficult than 1440p. So you're looking at slightly less than half your normal 1440p framerate?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Totally Dubbed View Post

I see - but if the monitor was a 1440p with virtual 4k - rather than a 4k - there's no down-sampling occurring - just "upscaling" or "virtually" creating a 4K image.
In other words, it isn't really a 4K display.

Correct me if I'm wrong though smile.gif
Learnt quite a bit today in the QNIX models etc biggrin.gif!
Your graphics card will render a 4k image - this 4k image is then downsampled (reduced) to a 1440p image, which is then displayed.

Upsampling to 4k would be taking a 1440p image, and then scaling it up (ie, making up pixel information) to fill in the blanks you get when you scale uprwards.
post #15092 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by vikrum2083 View Post

Aye, the brick/adapter.

Monitor --> DC Plugin --> Brick --> Power Cord(adapter should go here) --> Wall

My problem is the Power Cord portion of that crude diagram. I should have received a free prong/outlet adapter to use the cord they included. But I didn't. So I'm looking for options to take out their Korean power cord and replace it with say one of my old PSU power cords, a power cord that plugs into a 22 inch Dell monitor, etc.

Thoughts? Thanks!

still confused by your post in all honesty. You mean the cord isn't for your region? That's to be expected - you need an adapter by the jack.
If the wire wasn't included all together - contact the ebay seller.
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinsbane View Post

Your graphics card will render a 4k image - this 4k image is then downsampled (reduced) to a 1440p image, which is then displayed.
Upsampling to 4k would be taking a 1440p image, and then scaling it up (ie, making up pixel information) to fill in the blanks you get when you scale uprwards.

I know that - but do GPUs output 4k by default?
post #15093 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by digitalforce View Post

I made up my mind. I am going to order a new Qnix for scientific purposes. I don't care about most features but I want to try out the new A-VHA or whatever panel wink.gif I will be sure to give a full report when I receive the monitor. I am sure even if I don't end up keeping it, someone here can benefit from a low price.

"Scientific Research" ... EPIC biggrin.gif .. but seriously can't wait to here your thoughts ... especially regarding the "Matte" finsh and if there is an overall picture improvement overcoming the grainy matte with the new A-HVA panel and "True" 10bit "color" board ... Will it have a noticeable greater "Lag" time due to the scalers? Will it clock to 120Hz as stated?Will it measure up to your present GLOSSY picture wise ...I suspect it will not, hope I'm wrong though rolleyes.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by TJD269 View Post

Just out of curiosity... Are u running this resolution on your QNIX or am I just stupid...



Good explanation of the "unbelievable" numbers by Spartan F8 [HERE] ... a few pages back with a really good link to "downsampling" [HERE] thumb.gif
Note: it's not Lawson's fault, he just posted what the software was reading at the time, but 120hz - 719 pixel clock @ 4K res just isn't possible on the QX2710 redface.gif

Edit: excellent additional comments by Kevinsbane thumb.gif

@ Lawson ... I have to agree with Taem ... This is not good, been there done that once for other builds even with excellent case airflow, and especially if you overclock.




Other options are custom loop H2o OR lot's of guys really like these AIO coolers as a quick/simple but pricey fix ...
Here's just an example ... there are a few other vendors/mods now ..



http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/4850/arctic_accelero_hybrid_aio_video_card_cooler_review/index.html
Edited by TomcatV - 3/10/14 at 12:42pm
 
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post #15094 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by Osteoman View Post

Lawson,

This is terrible. What are we Geforce people going to do if you go to the dark side with AMD? Clearly you are going to just have to run two systems, one of each for testing purposes. rolleyes.gif

All kidding aside let us know how that runs in comparison to what you have now. If you have time, run some fps tests now and then when you get the new cards for comparison. This will make you feel better about the purchase and give us some insight into potential upgrades. biggrin.gif

We appreciate you for what you have done for this forum. Helps a lot.

Yes i am going to the Dark side to be honest its becaurse i can not find a GTX780 as cheap as theR9 also all of the reviews i have seen of this card make me want it even more!
Quote:
Originally Posted by taem View Post

I would not crossfire two of these cards. Because this is what that looks like:


That's from user magiccase who tried this in his Silverstone FT02 and gpu1 temps were too high. Granted that case is not ideal for the heatpipe orientation on this card. Otoh that case has the best airflow you're going to find, except maybe the FT04. Only way I'd even attempt crossfiring two of these cards is with a side fan, and not a big low rpm/pressure 200mm, but a high rpm/high pressure 140/120mm to blast the exhaust back into the heatsink so it doesn't get sucked up by gpu1 and to force cool air into that tiny little crack, better yet, a pair of lateral side mounted 140/120mms. Best of all would be a vertical expansion bracket above the pcie slots where you could mount one of these with triple 80/92mms:


If you have no side fan options just forget about it now. Even in an FT04, with this little spacing, any cool air that gets into that crack would be sucked in by gpu1's closest fan and the other two fans would just get exhaust from gpu2.

That's why I have a Tri-X btw, once I saw how thick this Powercolor is I ordered a Tri-X to use as gpu1. This is much more reasonable:


If you can't fit the Tri-X I don't know what your options are frankly. Asus DCUII has heatpipe issues because it's a GTX 780 cooler that's been hillbilly rigged onto the Hawaii die. MSI Gaming fans are too low rpm to use as gpu1, I have a friend who tried, simply doesn't work. I don't know much about the Gigabyte but maybe that's your only option.

Yes i see your point and yes they are really close...however think of a CPU it can have a massive heat sink to dissipate the heat!...now if you made that heat sink half as big there would indeed be more air around the CPU instead metal dissipating the heat!...i don't think it will make any difference really because in that gap would be just fresh air doing nothing...but with these its all heatsink and no wasted space!...and you have to think if i have one card with the same GPU but a smaller heat sink and one with a massive heat sink but they still have the same heat to dissipate weather i have 2 massive heat sinks or one big one and one small one...by rights surly the bigger the heat sink wins ..in fact this is like having one massive heat sink cooling 2 GPU with fans in the middle to further help cooing!...i think i am going to take the risk and still get the 2..also i have very good cooling in my case...2x120mm 1800 rpm in the front pulling air in ..1x 120mm 1800 rpm at the bottom pulling air up...then the air travels over my water block and CPU and out thought the roof with 2x 120mm 1800rpm pulling the air out the case...
Edited by lawson67 - 3/10/14 at 12:44pm
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post #15095 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by Totally Dubbed View Post

I know that - but do GPUs output 4k by default?
By default? What do you mean? You definitely can't output 4K to the single-input monitors. For the single-input ones, if you choose to do it, the graphics card will render @4k, then convert it to a 1440p signal before sending it out to the monitor.
post #15096 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by ColdFlo View Post

Downsampling is not a form of anti aliasing and it only works on older games or games with simple engines that can handle you running them at super high resolutions in order to downsample. You wont see the aliasing very much at 1440p anyway and if you do your better off running something like Sweetfx. Huge resolutions and high fps for high hz rarely happen except with extremely fast engines that actually have picture quality to benefit from it or are internally frame locked within the engine like Need for Speed Hot Pursuit the newer one even then Downsampling huge resolutions makes the game laggy and slow.

If the new Qnix monitor has a scalar board then most likely it has more input latency(more lag because more ms between the gpu back and light from the screen or more lag between screen and mouse) then the QX2710 so someone needs to post those figures before I would consider buying it. I think the lack of OSD is a good thing and that stuff is better processed by the graphics card.

If you dont have allot of space between graphics cards you can remedy that with some strong 120mm or 140mm fans blowing directly into the space between them. Problem with that is, if you have the case door on most standard cases there isnt enough space for intake on those fans to blow with enough power in between the cards so if you have a tower case you need one that is wider like that new corsair cube case or better yet you should just take the stock coolers off buy backer plates and put sealed water coolers like the corsair h100 and buy laser cut brackets off of overclocking forums to make a plate to screw those aftermarket sealed water coolers onto the gpu and add ramsinks with superglue or thermal expoxy on the corners and a swath of non conductive non capacitive thermal paste like phobya hegrease down the center. I like to mix phobya hegrease with artic silver alumina thermal epoxy to make the epoxy more brittle and easier to remove(possible its more thermally conductive as well) from the vrms should you need to take the sinks off of them seeing as they are so small both of those products are non conductive/capacitive so it doesnt matter if you get it on chip leads and you will because vrms are so small(I've done this many times and never had a problem). If you get coollaboratory liquid pro on the contacts it will short and also over time it dries and becomes like solder joint. There are pictures online of people breaking their chips cracking huge chunks out of them because coollaboratory liquid pro or ultra turned into a solder joint.

Well I have CLU on my CPU - no troubles for the time being biggrin.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinsbane View Post

By default? What do you mean? You definitely can't output 4K to the single-input monitors. For the single-input ones, if you choose to do it, the graphics card will render @4k, then convert it to a 1440p signal before sending it out to the monitor.

I'm a little confused by your post - but no worries smile.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by taem View Post

I would not crossfire two of these cards. Because this is what that looks like:


That's from user magiccase who tried this in his Silverstone FT02 and gpu1 temps were too high. Granted that case is not ideal for the heatpipe orientation on this card. Otoh that case has the best airflow you're going to find, except maybe the FT04. Only way I'd even attempt crossfiring two of these cards is with a side fan, and not a big low rpm/pressure 200mm, but a high rpm/high pressure 140/120mm to blast the exhaust back into the heatsink so it doesn't get sucked up by gpu1 and to force cool air into that tiny little crack, better yet, a pair of lateral side mounted 140/120mms. Best of all would be a vertical expansion bracket above the pcie slots where you could mount one of these with triple 80/92mms:


If you have no side fan options just forget about it now. Even in an FT04, with this little spacing, any cool air that gets into that crack would be sucked in by gpu1's closest fan and the other two fans would just get exhaust from gpu2.

That's why I have a Tri-X btw, once I saw how thick this Powercolor is I ordered a Tri-X to use as gpu1. This is much more reasonable:


If you can't fit the Tri-X I don't know what your options are frankly. Asus DCUII has heatpipe issues because it's a GTX 780 cooler that's been hillbilly rigged onto the Hawaii die. MSI Gaming fans are too low rpm to use as gpu1, I have a friend who tried, simply doesn't work. I don't know much about the Gigabyte but maybe that's your only option.

Doesn't this also depend on the motherboard dude?
I'll take pics of when I SLI my cards - but there will be a clear space between them. Small it may be, but there will be space biggrin.gif
post #15097 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by Totally Dubbed View Post

I would be tempted to contact the seller and tell them to send it to you, free.

EDIT:
By adapter you mean a PLUG adapter or do you mean a power brick / adapter?

I really appreciate you attempting to help me. Lets give it one more go as I'm sure we can get on the same page. =)

I purchased the monitor from Korea. I live in the United States. The seller told me I'd get an adapter with my purchase so that I could plug the monitor's electrical Korean prong into an electrical outlet here in the United States. The seller did not in fact include said adapter.

What he did include was this prong;


and this brick;





Will this, which I have, work in place of the Korean prong (1st pic above) that came with it;



Again, thanks so much!
post #15098 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by Totally Dubbed View Post

Well I have CLU on my CPU - no troubles for the time being biggrin.gif
I'm a little confused by your post - but no worries smile.gif
Doesn't this also depend on the motherboard dude?
I'll take pics of when I SLI my cards - but there will be a clear space between them. Small it may be, but there will be space biggrin.gif

The reason the Powercolors are so close is they are a 3 slot card compared to the normal 2 slot. I really wanted to run my 2nd card in the lowest slot, but it wont work that way for SLI, unless it was 3 cards. Anyhow, I have enough space.

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post #15099 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by vikrum2083 View Post

I really appreciate you attempting to help me. Lets give it one more go as I'm sure we can get on the same page. =)

I purchased the monitor from Korea. I live in the United States. The seller told me I'd get an adapter with my purchase so that I could plug the monitor's electrical Korean prong into an electrical outlet here in the United States. The seller did not in fact include said adapter.

What he did include was this prong;


and this brick;





Will this, which I have, work in place of the Korean prong (1st pic above) that came with it;



Again, thanks so much!

As long as any power cable you have fits into the brick, its fine. Many have used the existing power cables they have on their current monitor.
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post #15100 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by Totally Dubbed View Post

I'm a little confused by your post - but no worries smile.gif
Heh. Perhaps this?
Quote:
Originally Posted by vikrum2083 View Post

Will this, which I have, work in place of the Korean prong (1st pic above) that came with it;
That's what I use.
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