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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 1575

post #15741 of 25888
I should also mention, when I did my best offer thingy, I started at $320. Consider it haggling without the face to face. thumb.gif
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post #15742 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by Totally Dubbed View Post

Tried a different power cable? (fuse related maybe?)

I took the monitor apart and I think I have narrowed down the problem to the pcb (not the pcb on the screen itself). It seems to be incredibly finicky in order to power the pcb up. The audio does not work either, which leads me to think the pcb is the problem.

When the pcb does power up and turn on, the audio only plays for 1-2 seconds then cuts out, and then the power led turns into blinking blue. Pressing the power button to turn it off, then pressing the power button to turn it back on will repeat that scenario (audio plays for 1-2 seconds before cutting out).

Well tl;dr I guess my monitor is dead and I'll have to spend $350 on another Qnix frown.gif
Next time I'll get the 3 year warranty...
post #15743 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by chiknnwatrmln View Post

Considering buying a Korean monitor, have a few questions though.

Does brand matter? Other than the bezel and warranty, they are all the same panels, no? So that would mean same OC chance, same quality, etc, correct?

I ask because I found a Monex monitor for $310, this is the pixel perfect version also. The closest Qnix was $330 for the pixel perfect. The only differences I can tell are the bezel and stand. The panels are the same as far as I can tell.

Lastly, does the monitor's mainboard affect OC'ing? And do the different manufacturers use different mainboards? Thanks for any info.

Yes the PCB/mainboard has a major effect the Single input (DVI-D) are the only reliable OC boards right now in a PLS panel for $300-$350. QNIX and X-Star are identical and the Monex is not overclockable as watagump stated above ...

As of today these are the 2 cheapest sources available with stock ...

1) $299 - [Tempered Glass] X-STAR DP2710LED 27" 2560x1440 Samsung PLS Panel
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tempered-Glass-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-/321226150944?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4aca921420

2) $325 -[Matte] FREE EXPRESS X-STAR DP2710LED 27" 2560x1440 Samsung PLS Panel Monitor
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Matte-FREE-EXPRESS-X-STAR-DP2710LED-27-2560x1440-Samsung-PLS-Panel-Monitor-/330932578190?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d0d1e678e

Or you could bid on this one ... starting @ $299.98
New "Ultimate Perfect Pixel" Qnix 27" QX2710 Evolution II Slim 2560x1440 Monitor
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321351216926?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

As far as Pixel Perfect goes ... I'm from the SpartanF8/menacingtuba school of thought ... search their posts on PP biggrin.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by MingoDynasty View Post

I took the monitor apart and I think I have narrowed down the problem to the pcb (not the pcb on the screen itself). It seems to be incredibly finicky in order to power the pcb up. The audio does not work either, which leads me to think the pcb is the problem.

When the pcb does power up and turn on, the audio only plays for 1-2 seconds then cuts out, and then the power led turns into blinking blue. Pressing the power button to turn it off, then pressing the power button to turn it back on will repeat that scenario (audio plays for 1-2 seconds before cutting out).

Well tl;dr I guess my monitor is dead and I'll have to spend $350 on another Qnix frown.gif
Next time I'll get the 3 year warranty...

1st try contacting your supplier and have them send you a new PCB board, probably for free, and replace it ...
Also maybe your power brick is going bad, although when they fail they usually completely fail redface.gif
Edited by TomcatV - 3/15/14 at 4:17pm
 
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post #15744 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by digitalforce View Post

Wow, another super fast thread count.. I can't keep up smile.gif

I made up my mind and I am definitely keeping the Qnix Glossy/Glass. As some mentioned here, the Overlord is fantastic but it is a MUCH bigger cost for not much improvement.
Quote:
Originally Posted by snapdragon View Post

Did you have dead pixels and how was the BLB on the true10
Thanks

No issues at all on the True10. Like I said, I have three EXCELLENT monitors here so I am getting very picky (True10 vs Overlord vs Qnix glass) -- The True10 doesn't overclock properly though. Otherwise, it's an amazing monitor.
post #15745 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by MingoDynasty View Post

I took the monitor apart and I think I have narrowed down the problem to the pcb (not the pcb on the screen itself). It seems to be incredibly finicky in order to power the pcb up. The audio does not work either, which leads me to think the pcb is the problem.

When the pcb does power up and turn on, the audio only plays for 1-2 seconds then cuts out, and then the power led turns into blinking blue. Pressing the power button to turn it off, then pressing the power button to turn it back on will repeat that scenario (audio plays for 1-2 seconds before cutting out).

Well tl;dr I guess my monitor is dead and I'll have to spend $350 on another Qnix frown.gif
Next time I'll get the 3 year warranty...
Is it within a year? Can't you return it?
post #15746 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by MingoDynasty View Post

I took the monitor apart and I think I have narrowed down the problem to the pcb (not the pcb on the screen itself). It seems to be incredibly finicky in order to power the pcb up. The audio does not work either, which leads me to think the pcb is the problem.

When the pcb does power up and turn on, the audio only plays for 1-2 seconds then cuts out, and then the power led turns into blinking blue. Pressing the power button to turn it off, then pressing the power button to turn it back on will repeat that scenario (audio plays for 1-2 seconds before cutting out).

Well tl;dr I guess my monitor is dead and I'll have to spend $350 on another Qnix frown.gif
Next time I'll get the 3 year warranty...

The blinking blue light means its powered on but is not getting a signal..
Try this will you its a long shot but it might work.....go into windows in your other monitor!...find CRU hit delete top right hand corner...now find the CRU zip file in there is a file called reset-all.exe...run it and try your Qnix monitor again...i am thinking if you just deleted the resolutions in CRU but did not run the reset-all.exe ...you left behind the EDID overrides for those deleted resolutions..if you have a hardware problem this wont help however if you did not delete the EDID overrides and onlty the resolutions in CRU this can sometimes result in the monitor not being seen in windows...it worth a shot try it!
Edited by lawson67 - 3/15/14 at 5:06pm
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post #15747 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by Totally Dubbed View Post

Is it within a year? Can't you return it?

I got it 8 months ago from ipsledmonitors, but I sent them an email to see what they can do.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lawson67 View Post

Edit: scratch that i just read it there's no power?...the blinking blue light means its powered on but is not getting a signal..
Try this will you its a long shot but it might work.....go into windows in your other monitor!...find CRU hit delete top right hand corner...now find the CRU zip file in there is a file called reset-all.exe...run it and try your Qnix monitor again.

I tried deleting the CRU profiles (I mentioned in my first series of posts) but I did not try the reset all exe. But regardless, I tried it on a different PC that has never touched a Qnix before, and nothing changed.
post #15748 of 25888
Whats up guys its been a while. Sold my 780 which was very easy to get my qnix to 120hz.

Any guidance on doing so with crossfire r9 270's? I read the op but thought I'd ask. I can not put multiple bridges like it says as I only have one finger on the cards.

Do I need cru or can I just do it through CCC. Away from my pc going to attempt it later.
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post #15749 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by MingoDynasty View Post

I got it 8 months ago from ipsledmonitors, but I sent them an email to see what they can do.
I tried deleting the CRU profiles (I mentioned in my first series of posts) but I did not try the reset all exe. But regardless, I tried it on a different PC that has never touched a Qnix before, and nothing changed.

By LAW (as they're a US company) They should replace it.
So have no fear dude smile.gif!
Quote:
Originally Posted by lightsout View Post

Whats up guys its been a while. Sold my 780 which was very easy to get my qnix to 120hz.

Any guidance on doing so with crossfire r9 270's? I read the op but thought I'd ask. I can not put multiple bridges like it says as I only have one finger on the cards.

Do I need cru or can I just do it through CCC. Away from my pc going to attempt it later.

No idea about the questions, but you sold a 780 for two mid-range 270s? Why on earth did you do that lol?
post #15750 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by lightsout View Post

Whats up guys its been a while. Sold my 780 which was very easy to get my qnix to 120hz.

Any guidance on doing so with crossfire r9 270's? I read the op but thought I'd ask. I can not put multiple bridges like it says as I only have one finger on the cards.

Do I need cru or can I just do it through CCC. Away from my pc going to attempt it later.

You will need CRU for AMD and grab the ATI patch...also if you want go for 120hz you can can use my timings below which should help lower your pixel clock and give you a better signal for your 120hz resolution!...Also below are my ICC profiles and you are more than welcome to use them!...i calibrated them at a brightness of 200 cd/m which for 120hz is 18 clicks up on the BRI+ button from a black screen and 17 clicks up for 96hz...i have just moved from a Nvidia card to AMD with 2x R9 290 cards also and my monitor overclocks just the same as always a solid 120hz!



Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 26k .zip file
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