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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 1577

post #15761 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ascii Aficionado View Post

Digitalforce responded in the past two days saying there was more input lag, and it was noticeable. Someone else said it was an entire frame more (I don't remember who said it).

Digitalforce said he'll do a proper input lag test very soon.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MenacingTuba View Post

Almost all of the multi-input 1440p monitors tested properly (SMT Tool or Oscilloscope) have 1-2 frames of input lag.

Thus the Crossover has input lag too - correct assumption? (It was mentioned in the reviews linked)
SO, when you compare the QNIX 10bit 60hz 1440p multiple inpute VS the crossover model - you're gaining better colour reproduction at a $50-100 cheaper price. Other than that, everything else is the supposedly similar. Correct?

If so, then I stand behind my: "If I wanted 60hz gaming, I would choose the QNIX 10bit"
I have no idea if my LG IPS24V has input lag or not (due to it being multiple input too) - but all I can say is, I don't notice anything and absolutely dominate in BF4 (where input lag would be a problem).

Long story short:
I'm saying if I had to stay on 60hz, I would choose the QNIX - although arguably if I wanted the Xbox to work without problems then I would choose the crossover.
Trade off really:
Colours + gamma vs Xbox360 1080P input (rather than 720p or 1080i ont he QNIX).

What I'm choosing to do, as I game a heck of a lot on the Xbox and even thinking of buying a new gen console, as it will be portable if I get a job that needs moving around is the following:
Get the best OC'able monitor for home - thus a PC gaming monitor.
Then buy a 42-50" LED TV for the house (where my mum would appreciate it as well vs our little 26" LCD TV) - thus for my Fifa wants and needs, I'll be more than happy on the "big screen". Anyway, my Xbox membership runs out in May - and I don't see myself renewing it and thus retiring my Xbox360 for a PS4 (possibly).

Then "on the go" I'll take the next gen console I choose to play anywhere I want (ie hotel rooms etc).
post #15762 of 25888
Hi all, I have been lurking on these forums for quite awhile now as I built my first PC. I was hoping someone could take the time to help me now. I hope this is the right place to ask, if not I'll make a new topic.

I got a Qnix monitor about three weeks ago and it is excellent when it works. However, recently it has been having the test pattern problem (this is what it looks like: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7FMiTGwR34c ). The first couple of times all I had to do was screw the cable into the monitor and PC tight and it would start showing my desktop again. This time, though, I'm afraid it is permanently stuck this way. No matter what cable I try, or how hard I screw them into the monitor and tower, it remains in this looping pattern.

I can plug my tower into my 1080p HDTV and it runs everything fine, so I know it's not my gpu (780ti). I have tried every troubleshooting tactic I can think of and cannot get my picture to return! George is getting upset.

I noticed that inside one of the slots (slot 4, I believe? Bottom row, 4th from the right) on the DVI-D port in the monitor that the pins seem to be meeting in the middle as opposed to being at separate corners like in the rest of the slots. I don't know if this little imperfection could mess with the signal to my monitor or not. It's just a thought. I've used a needle to try and get them back to their normal positions but they aren't really wanting to move, they just flick back to the middle.

I know this problem has occurred to others but I never seem to see a resolution to any of them. I'm just wondering if anyone has any ideas/solutions.

To sum it up:
-My monitor is stuck on the "Flashing Test Pattern" screen when plugged into the computer and the computer is powered on.
-I have tried two different DVI-D Dual link cables to no avail
-I have tried using HDMI to hook up my computer to an HDTV just to test the GPU and it works flawlessly. I do not have another DVI-D monitor to test my gpu's DVI-D slot with
-There may be two bent pins in one slot of the monitor's Dvi-D input (NOT the cable, the monitor itself). Though I have no way of confirming if this is even an issue

Thank you and enjoy your 1440p as I have!
post #15763 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by Totally Dubbed View Post


Thus the Crossover has input lag too - correct assumption? (It was mentioned in the reviews linked)
SO, when you compare the QNIX 10bit 60hz 1440p multiple inpute VS the crossover model - you're gaining better colour reproduction at a $50-100 cheaper price. Other than that, everything else is the supposedly similar. Correct?

If so, then I stand behind my: "If I wanted 60hz gaming, I would choose the QNIX 10bit"
I have no idea if my LG IPS24V has input lag or not (due to it being multiple input too) - but all I can say is, I don't notice anything and absolutely dominate in BF4 (where input lag would be a problem).

Long story short:
I'm saying if I had to stay on 60hz, I would choose the QNIX - although arguably if I wanted the Xbox to work without problems then I would choose the crossover.
Trade off really:
Colours + gamma vs Xbox360 1080P input (rather than 720p or 1080i ont he QNIX).

What I'm choosing to do, as I game a heck of a lot on the Xbox and even thinking of buying a new gen console, as it will be portable if I get a job that needs moving around is the following:
Get the best OC'able monitor for home - thus a PC gaming monitor.
Then buy a 42-50" LED TV for the house (where my mum would appreciate it as well vs our little 26" LCD TV) - thus for my Fifa wants and needs, I'll be more than happy on the "big screen". Anyway, my Xbox membership runs out in May - and I don't see myself renewing it and thus retiring my Xbox360 for a PS4 (possibly).

Then "on the go" I'll take the next gen console I choose to play anywhere I want (ie hotel rooms etc).

I wasn't doubting your choice, I was just thinking that if the picky/quality fanatics in this thread are okay with it, then I likely will be too. I've never used anything more advanced than a TN LCD for my PC, so I'm worried about the whole input lag concept.

That's my logic for worrying.

Anyways, I'm almost certain I'm getting the 10bit Qnix as well. I'm just worried about the extra input lag.

I didn't know if the extra amount you see on multi-input displays crosses a threshold that's unacceptable, or if it's just unacceptable when there are single input displays with half a frame to one full frame less (concerning input lag) available for basically the same price, or near the same price.

And of course all of this is relative to the individual, but I think most of us share common requirements for what we want when compared to others. Meaning, the average person just looks at the price and size of a display, but we're significantly more picky.

I'm asking every question I want to regardless of how silly it sounds as I really don't want to read through this entire thread and we have people active and actually responding.

Edit - I was also lead to believe that these single-input displays are the only ones of their kind and no other 27" 1440p IPS LED displays have less than 2 frames of input lag, but this was early on when I was introduced to these.
Edited by Ascii Aficionado - 3/15/14 at 7:48pm
post #15764 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by Totally Dubbed View Post

Thus the Crossover has input lag too - correct assumption? (It was mentioned in the reviews linked)

Yes, I made the 2720MDP review.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Totally Dubbed View Post

SO, when you compare the QNIX 10bit 60hz 1440p multiple inpute VS the crossover model - you're gaining better colour reproduction at a $50-100 cheaper price. Other than that, everything else is the supposedly similar. Correct?

The Qnix DPMulti is an 8bit+FRC AHVA panel just like the BenQ BL2710PT (which I, TFT Central, =DEAD=, PC Monitors and PRAD have all reviewed)) which offers absolutely no advantages over a regular 8 bit monitor. The 2720MDP is also supposed to be 8 bit+FRC (10 bit).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Totally Dubbed View Post

I have no idea if my LG IPS24V has input lag or not.

All of the 23" 1080p IPS which have been properly tested except for the high end NEC P232W are delay free. Usually only higher end 1920x1200 and 1440-1600p monitors with multiple inputs have 1-2 frames of input lag. The Asus VG278HE and Samsung S27A950D are examples of exceptions since both have 1 frame delays @60hz according to PRAD's oscilloscope measurements
Quote:
Originally Posted by Totally Dubbed View Post

I'm saying if I had to stay on 60hz, I would choose the QNIX - although arguably if I wanted the Xbox to work without problems then I would choose the crossover.

The 360's Extended reference level (the Xbox One probably has this setting) and in game brightness/gamma settings can mostly compensate for the Crossover's lower gamma. If one wants a matte multi-input 1440p monitor the Qnix DPort or DPMulti might be good choices but I would wait for some colorimeteric tests before recommending them. There is also the multi-input Yamakasi Q270 Jupiter which uses a matte AHVA panel and is quite cheap, but it has not been properly reviewed.
Edited by MenacingTuba - 3/15/14 at 7:59pm
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post #15765 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by MenacingTuba View Post

Yes, I made the 2720MDP review.
The Qnix DPMulti is an 8bit+FRC AHVA panel just like the BenQ BL2710PT (which I, TFT Central, =DEAD=, PC Monitors and PRAD have all reviewed)) which offers absolutely no advantages over a regular 8 bit monitor. The 2720MDP is also supposed to be 8 bit+FRC (10 bit).
All of the 23" 1080p IPS which have been properly tested except for the high end NEC P232W are delay free. Usually only higher end 1920x1200 and 1440-1600p monitors with multiple inputs have 1-2 frames of input lag. The Asus VG278HE and Samsung S27A950D are examples of exceptions since both have 1 frame delays @60hz according to PRAD's oscilloscope measurements
The 360's Extended reference level (the Xbox One probably has this setting) and in game brightness/gamma settings can mostly compensate for the Crossover's lower gamma. If one wants a matte multi-input 1440p monitor the Qnix DPort or DPMulti might be good choices but I would wait for some colorimeteric tests before recommending them. There is also the multi-input Yamakasi Q270 Jupiter which uses a matte AHVA panel and is quite cheap, but it has not been properly reviewed.

+R to you ... Really appreciate your comments and Reviews thumb.gif

Even your sig has useful advice if people would just take the time to read biggrin.gif

Google (insert monitor) review before making a thread about it. Research (Google) before buying a monitor and then asking if it is good.

Multi-Input 2650x1440 Monitors drop frames when overclocked which makes overclocking pointless.

10 Bit Monitors: 99% are 8 bit+FRC and AMD Quadro or Nvidia Firepro gpu's are required to send+receive a true 10 bit signal. 10 bit consumer content (games, movies TV) does not exist.
 
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post #15766 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by lawson67 View Post

Go to CRU and hit Delete in the top right hand corner!...then go to the CRU zip file and find the reset-all.exe and run it reboot and you will be fine thumb.gif
That's redundant. Just run reset-all.exe to delete all the overrides. The "Delete" button is for deleting the override for one monitor.
post #15767 of 25888
Ok, so I finally got around to checking the overclock-ability of my monitor (1/2), and it appears to do 120hz! I did the moving photo, and other test, but I don't have a camera to take a pic with.. If those tests don't register anything but browser studder, does that mean I'm in the clear or not?

Also, since changing to 120hz, the colors darkened a bit, I take it that is normal, and why everyone has the ICC profiles? I've downloaded (2) profiles to try, how do I go about using them?
post #15768 of 25888
Well, I have finally made the leap into the club. I picked up a Samsung S27C570H for $200 on my local craigslist yesterday. I thought it would satisfy my monitor craving...all it did was make me want the 1440 120hz more.

I ordered a Perfect Pixel Qnix QX2710 from storewithstory on eBay. They got my business because they'll pay for return shipping. Plus it was only $339.90 shipped. Doesn't get much better than that!
    
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post #15769 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snerp View Post

Well, I have finally made the leap into the club. I picked up a Samsung S27C570H for $200 on my local craigslist yesterday. I thought it would satisfy my monitor craving...all it did was make me want the 1440 120hz more.

I ordered a Perfect Pixel Qnix QX2710 from storewithstory on eBay. They got my business because they'll pay for return shipping. Plus it was only $339.90 shipped. Doesn't get much better than that!

It gets better, you could of paid $325, like I did. biggrin.gif
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post #15770 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanEboy View Post

Ok, so I finally got around to checking the overclock-ability of my monitor (1/2), and it appears to do 120hz! I did the moving photo, and other test, but I don't have a camera to take a pic with.. If those tests don't register anything but browser studder, does that mean I'm in the clear or not?

Also, since changing to 120hz, the colors darkened a bit, I take it that is normal, and why everyone has the ICC profiles? I've downloaded (2) profiles to try, how do I go about using them?

Correct, overclocking causes the gamma shift and makes colors darker.

Installing ICC profiles.

http://www.redrivercatalog.com/profiles/how_to_install_ICC_color_profiles.html
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