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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 1578

post #15771 of 25888
My Qnix will be here tomorrow! Too bad I cant wall mount it for a few days.....
Edited by bluedevil - 3/16/14 at 5:13am
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post #15772 of 25888
Same here, getting mine tomorrow. thumb.gif

Are the stock cables good enough to overclock to 120hz or should I run to local BestBuy or RadioShack to pick up a Dual link DVI-D cable.
     
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post #15773 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by Balsagna View Post

Same here, getting mine tomorrow. thumb.gif

Are the stock cables good enough to overclock to 120hz or should I run to local BestBuy or RadioShack to pick up a Dual link DVI-D cable.

Don't bother with the ones in the box or at CrapShack/WorstBuy. Get this one. No doubt in my mind it will not be my limiting factor in OCing this panel.

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2686&seq=1&format=2
Edited by bluedevil - 3/16/14 at 6:22am
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post #15774 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ascii Aficionado View Post

I wasn't doubting your choice, I was just thinking that if the picky/quality fanatics in this thread are okay with it, then I likely will be too. I've never used anything more advanced than a TN LCD for my PC, so I'm worried about the whole input lag concept.

That's my logic for worrying.

Anyways, I'm almost certain I'm getting the 10bit Qnix as well. I'm just worried about the extra input lag.

I didn't know if the extra amount you see on multi-input displays crosses a threshold that's unacceptable, or if it's just unacceptable when there are single input displays with half a frame to one full frame less (concerning input lag) available for basically the same price, or near the same price.

And of course all of this is relative to the individual, but I think most of us share common requirements for what we want when compared to others. Meaning, the average person just looks at the price and size of a display, but we're significantly more picky.

I'm asking every question I want to regardless of how silly it sounds as I really don't want to read through this entire thread and we have people active and actually responding.

Edit - I was also lead to believe that these single-input displays are the only ones of their kind and no other 27" 1440p IPS LED displays have less than 2 frames of input lag, but this was early on when I was introduced to these.


Indeed, but why are you getting a multiple input one then?
Why not stick to the single input (lag free) one?

Quote:
Originally Posted by MenacingTuba View Post

Yes, I made the 2720MDP review.
The Qnix DPMulti is an 8bit+FRC AHVA panel just like the BenQ BL2710PT (which I, TFT Central, =DEAD=, PC Monitors and PRAD have all reviewed)) which offers absolutely no advantages over a regular 8 bit monitor. The 2720MDP is also supposed to be 8 bit+FRC (10 bit).
All of the 23" 1080p IPS which have been properly tested except for the high end NEC P232W are delay free. Usually only higher end 1920x1200 and 1440-1600p monitors with multiple inputs have 1-2 frames of input lag. The Asus VG278HE and Samsung S27A950D are examples of exceptions since both have 1 frame delays @60hz according to PRAD's oscilloscope measurements
The 360's Extended reference level (the Xbox One probably has this setting) and in game brightness/gamma settings can mostly compensate for the Crossover's lower gamma. If one wants a matte multi-input 1440p monitor the Qnix DPort or DPMulti might be good choices but I would wait for some colorimeteric tests before recommending them. There is also the multi-input Yamakasi Q270 Jupiter which uses a matte AHVA panel and is quite cheap, but it has not been properly reviewed.

Nice man +rep.
Yeah the 10bit one isn't actually 10bit as you pointed out a few pages back.
As for the 1080P monitor - happy days. Yeah I've not noticed any problems.
post #15775 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeanEboy View Post

Ok, so I finally got around to checking the overclock-ability of my monitor (1/2), and it appears to do 120hz! I did the moving photo, and other test, but I don't have a camera to take a pic with.. If those tests don't register anything but browser studder, does that mean I'm in the clear or not?

Also, since changing to 120hz, the colors darkened a bit, I take it that is normal, and why everyone has the ICC profiles? I've downloaded (2) profiles to try, how do I go about using them?

Hey Sean you should get a valid 120hz or 96hz or what ever HZ custom resolution you have loaded in a green bar on that website saying Valid on the UFO page linked below.....Also you will want to make sure your games can see customs resolutions!...you can do this by turning on Vsync in any game and turn the graphics options down to low so that you can hit high FPS....Now if you hit with Vsync turned on anything over 60 Fps and up to a max of 96 fps then your 96hz profile if you indeed have a 96hz profile is working just fine and can be seen in games!.
If you have just made a 120hz custom resolution the same goes for this also...Turn Vsync on in any game and turn the graphics options down to low so that you can hit high FPS!....if you hit anything over 60 fps up to a max of 120fps then your custom resolutions can be seen in games...sorted!

Yes the sreen will appear darker when you run a higher refresh rate as the gamma shifts higher which make the screen appear darker!...you are more then welcome to use my 96hz and 120hz ICC profiles linked below...these will completely correct the higher gamma shift ( darker looking screen) that you are seeing running at higher refresh rates!.....i calibrated theses ICC profiles at a brightness of 200 cd/m which is on the BRI+ button 18 clicks up from a black screen for 120hz and 17 clicks up for the 96hz ICC profile...i also recommended using yasamoka Color Sustainer to apply and control your ICC profiles which you can download from the link below...

Also Sean use my optimised timings below just for your 120hz custom resolution which should lower your pixel clock at 120hz and give you a better signal!.....and enjoy your New monitor Sean thumb.gif




http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping

http://www.guru3d.com/files_details/color_sustainer_download.html

Nativedispcal120hz96hz200cdm.zip 26k .zip file
Edited by lawson67 - 3/16/14 at 7:43am
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post #15776 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by Watagump View Post

Correct, overclocking causes the gamma shift and makes colors darker.

Installing ICC profiles.

http://www.redrivercatalog.com/profiles/how_to_install_ICC_color_profiles.html
Avoid using Windows to load ICC color profiles and use a 3rd-party loader. Reasons?

1) AMD cards benefit from a 10-bit LUT (more on that later if you're interested to know) which means they avoid banding with ICC color profiles. Windows loader is 8-bit, throwing out 2 bits AMD cards could use.

2) Windows does not set back your color profile if a game loaded in fullscreen resets the color profile. You need a 3rd-party loader to "lock" color profiles by loading them back whenever they are reset.
post #15777 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by Totally Dubbed View Post

Indeed, but why are you getting a multiple input one then?
Why not stick to the single input (lag free) one?

I won't be buying a new display until a few months from now and I thought the single input displays spoken about here were being discontinued (presumably)
post #15778 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by Watagump View Post

It gets better, you could of paid $325, like I did. biggrin.gif

How did you manage that? I reviewed every seller's return policy and didn't see free return shipping included for cheaper. Every seller had free return for a DOA, but storewithastory had free shipping for the year long warranty.
Edited by Snerp - 3/16/14 at 9:32am
    
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post #15779 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snerp View Post

How did you manage that? I reviewed every seller's return policy and didn't see free return shipping included for cheaper. Every seller had free return for a DOA, but storewithastory had free shipping for the year long warranty.

They had a best offer option, I offered $320, they came back at $335, I countered at $325, they agreed.
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post #15780 of 25888
Quote:
Originally Posted by Watagump View Post

They had a best offer option, I offered $320, they came back at $335, I countered at $325, they agreed.

So it's your fault they didn't have a best offer option. tongue.gif

Just kidding.

Oh well, $15 isn't going to kill me and the free return shipping/perfect pixel is worth the $340.
    
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