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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 1630

post #16291 of 25891
Quote:
Originally Posted by yasamoka View Post

How did he test for frameskipping? We need a photograph of the test running with shutter speed set to something reasonable.

He checked the ufo website. I dont have a 120hz monitor so i dont know how it should look like. So please tell me instructions so i can tell him to do it step by step
post #16292 of 25891
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaaflyer View Post

He checked the ufo website. I dont have a 120hz monitor so i dont know how it should look like. So please tell me instructions so i can tell him to do it step by step
Set shutter speed to 1/5, or 1/10, etc... and take a photo of the moving boxes. The photo indicates where a frame skip has occurred or not. Ideally, A chain of boxes should be lit in sequence, indicating that the monitor is displaying all the frames it has received in succession. Missing a box means that a frame was dropped. A 1/5 shutter speed should show 12 lit boxes at 60Hz and 24 lit boxes at 120Hz. If the boxes are too dim @ 1/5 shutter speed @ 120Hz, then use something like 1/10 which will show 12 lit boxes at 120Hz.
post #16293 of 25891
Quote:
Originally Posted by Optimus1978 View Post

Interesting - when did you place your order ? A couple if us in here have orders with the same supplier for the same monitor :-(

~3 days ago exactly, got the email 1 day ago exactly.. I told him to go ahead and sent my money back (not sure why he didn't do that right away because there's no reason for him to keep it if he told me to REPURCHASE the new one anyway.
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaaflyer View Post

Hey i got someone here who can test the true 10 version. He overclocked to 120hz. Has tested on the ufo site with no artifact or frame skipping. Please recommend more testing method so i can ask him to do



I've decided to go ahead and grab the True 10, it honestly can't be that bad, and if I can even get to 75hz it'll feel amazing. If I end up with a True10 and 120hz though, I'll be back with proof too! I've always been fond of reporting overclocking results with a ton of information as well, so look forward to that. Heck, I'll report back with all the lovely details anyway


Also, in his response to my response to the email, he said the True 10 runs natively at 75hz I'm not sure I remember reading that in it's specs, that's weird as heck. Is that true for some reason?
post #16294 of 25891
Quote:
Originally Posted by winterkid09 View Post

I've decided to go ahead and grab the True 10, it honestly can't be that bad, and if I can even get to 75hz it'll feel amazing. If I end up with a True10 and 120hz though, I'll be back with proof too! I've always been fond of reporting overclocking results with a ton of information as well, so look forward to that. Heck, I'll report back with all the lovely details anyway


Also, in his response to my response to the email, he said the True 10 runs natively at 75hz I'm not sure I remember reading that in it's specs, that's weird as heck. Is that true for some reason?
It's not true and the True10 seems to skip frames anywhere above 60Hz. Don't get your hopes up that it can overclock until we can get a photo proving it doesn't skip frames. Digitalforce's True10 skips frames so even if we get samples that overclock, that doesn't mean they all will.
Edited by yasamoka - 3/21/14 at 2:10am
post #16295 of 25891
I've decided to go ahead and grab the True 10, it honestly can't be that bad, and if I can get to 75hz even it'll feel amazing. 60hz is already pretty fantastic if your graphics card is good enough, although I've never seen much higher. From doing quite a bit of reading, it seems that using the 10-bit feature will not have a huge effect unless you have a 10-bit graphics card, however due to the fact that it displays in 10-bit, it does it's processing at 12-bit, (compared 10 a 8-bit monitor processing in 12-bit)

basically if you can't notice, that's okay because it's better anyway
Quote:
Originally Posted by yasamoka View Post

It's not true and the True10 seems to skip frames anywhere above 60Hz. Don't get your hopes up that it can overclock until we can get a photo proving it doesn't skip frames. Digitalforce's True10 skips frames so even if we get samples that overclock, that doesn't mean they all will.

I wasn't getting my hopes up, I was just deducing that if anybody would have a chance of reaching clocks above 60, I might be able to. I recently got 2 290x's (the Asus DCU2 ones) and would even be willing to spend a ton of time researching and testing.

Sure it's probably not possible, but hey, anything's an upgrade from a 1080p TN Display! Plus displays tend to look fantastic at native refreshes.

Maybe I'm wrong, maybe they look perfect, maybe I should shut up and get a regular one.. Hmm
post #16296 of 25891
Quote:
Originally Posted by winterkid09 View Post

I've decided to go ahead and grab the True 10, it honestly can't be that bad, and if I can get to 75hz even it'll feel amazing. 60hz is already pretty fantastic if your graphics card is good enough, although I've never seen much higher. From doing quite a bit of reading, it seems that using the 10-bit feature will not have a huge effect unless you have a 10-bit graphics card, however due to the fact that it displays in 10-bit, it does it's processing at 12-bit, (compared 10 a 8-bit monitor processing in 12-bit)
The monitor does not have an internal LUT and does not process in 12-bit. Only monitors that use dithering or internal LUTs and include a Color Management System (CMS - pro) process at higher bits than what they can actually display. This is one such monitor, it's 8-bit + FRC = 10-bit input with dithering at an actual 8-bits. Vast majority of 10-bit monitors are 8-bit + FRC and the true 10-bit ones are horribly expensive and are for professional use. TN panels are 8-bit input but have 6-bit panels, all of them.

Plus, there's rarely any 10-bit content out there. No games are 10-bit. If you were to use the registry tweak to enable 10-bit support on AMD (AMD consumer cards support 10-bit, like the FirePro), then you'll have many issues with non-10-bit applications crashing and whatnot. For all our intents and purposes, these monitors are equivalent to the normal 8-bit models we buy. You're going to have a different monitor if you have a fully 10-bit workflow, from OS to GPU to applications to your own usage.
Quote:
I wasn't getting my hopes up, I was just deducing that if anybody would have a chance of reaching clocks above 60, I might be able to. I recently got 2 290x's (the Asus DCU2 ones) and would even be willing to spend a ton of time researching and testing.

Sure it's probably not possible, but hey, anything's an upgrade from a 1080p TN Display! Plus displays tend to look fantastic at native refreshes.

Maybe I'm wrong, maybe they look perfect, maybe I should shut up and get a regular one.. Hmm
It would be a total shame to put these two cards to waste at 2560x1440p 60Hz unless you like to jack up the AA to use up the extra power. I would take the extra frames over extra AA any time of the day. The single input model has less lag (~6ms @ 60Hz) and is known to overclock so I don't see why you wouldn't get that instead. Unless you want to wait for further results on the True10 but I'm almost sure it skips frames like the rest of the multi-input boards.

Once calibrated (mostly for the gamma shift), color quality is the same at 60Hz vs. higher refresh rates. It's the uniformity that might suffer. However, if you're not satisfied with how higher refresh rates work then you could stay at 60Hz and enjoy the lower input lag.
Edited by yasamoka - 3/21/14 at 2:31am
post #16297 of 25891
Quote:
Originally Posted by yasamoka View Post

The monitor does not have an internal LUT and does not process in 12-bit. Only monitors that use dithering or internal LUTs and include a Color Management System (CMS - pro) process at higher bits than what they can actually display. This is one such monitor, it's 8-bit + FRC = 10-bit input with dithering at an actual 8-bits. Vast majority of 10-bit monitors are 8-bit + FRC and the true 10-bit ones are horribly expensive and are for professional use. TN panels are 8-bit input but have 6-bit panels, all of them.

Plus, there's rarely any 10-bit content out there. No games are 10-bit. If you were to use the registry tweak to enable 10-bit support on AMD (AMD consumer cards support 10-bit, like the FirePro), then you'll have many issues with non-10-bit applications crashing and whatnot. For all our intents and purposes, these monitors are equivalent to the normal 8-bit models we buy. You're going to have a different monitor if you have a fully 10-bit workflow, from OS to GPU to applications to your own usage.
It would be a total shame to put these two cards to waste at 2560x1440p 60Hz unless you like to jack up the AA to use up the extra power. I would take the extra frames over extra AA any time of the day. The single input model has less lag (~6ms @ 60Hz) and is known to overclock so I don't see why you wouldn't get that instead. Unless you want to wait for further results on the True10 but I'm almost sure it skips frames like the rest of the multi-input boards.

Once calibrated (mostly for the gamma shift), color quality is the same at 60Hz vs. higher refresh rates. It's the uniformity that might suffer. However, if you're not satisfied with how higher refresh rates work then you could stay at 60Hz and enjoy the lower input lag.

First off, I actually meant to delete that first part of the post, it was written in a second tab and I abandoned it because I had no idea what I was talking about! That's why two of my posts start out the same.. haha

I'll have to heed your advice here, I went to www.testufo.com and I noticed that 60hz looks a hell of a lot better than 30hz (which I already knew, I'm an FPS chaser) but now I'm more aware of the room there is for improvement Seems like 120hz would be instant motion clarity, thanks for helping me see straight , I'll find a different seller.
post #16298 of 25891
Wow, TA-Korea actually sent my monitor! Got a tracking on my work email (ebay account) I just saw it. Ordered the 11th of march.
post #16299 of 25891
Quote:
Originally Posted by winterkid09 View Post

First off, I actually meant to delete that first part of the post, it was written in a second tab and I abandoned it because I had no idea what I was talking about! That's why two of my posts start out the same.. haha
It's alright, I replied to the part that was added anyways haha biggrin.gif
Quote:
I'll have to heed your advice here, I went to www.testufo.com and I noticed that 60hz looks a hell of a lot better than 30hz (which I already knew, I'm an FPS chaser) but now I'm more aware of the room there is for improvement Seems like 120hz would be instant motion clarity, thanks for helping me see straight , I'll find a different seller.
Won't be completely motion clear, but you'll get closer to that. The closest to complete motion clarity currently are the LightBoost / G-Sync (with ULMB turned on) monitors. The overclockable IPS / PLS monitors will have slower pixel response and higher motion blur than the 1080p TN displays @ 120Hz even with LightBoost / ULMB off. But they will all feel super-fluid, as 100Hz+ should feel, and the IPS / PLS monitors look much nicer than the TN displays in normal mode, let alone in LightBoost / ULMB mode which tends to reduce color accuracy and in some cases raise the black level (ala ASUS VG248QE in LB mode).
post #16300 of 25891
Quote:
Originally Posted by Watagump View Post

If he counters, try the same $320 offer, do not raise yours. I should of done that with mine, since its now listed lower than what I paid.

He countered with $340. now, if i offer $320 again wont he have the ablilty to just back out and ill be stuck with the default price?
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