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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 1849

post #18481 of 25969
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolvaras View Post

I've just received my Qnix 2710, and followed the OC guide (both Nvidia pixel clock as the CRU). But for some reason it just won't budge any further than 60FPS/Hz on the frame skipper test.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8632815/OC%20CRU.png
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8632815/OC%20desktop.png
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8632815/OC%20Nvidia.png
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/8632815/OC%20website.png

Restarted multiple times already.

Any ideas?

Make sure you use Google chrome and that in advanced settings you have Use hardware acceleration when available checked thumb.gif
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post #18482 of 25969
Quote:
Originally Posted by lawson67 View Post

Make sure you use Google chrome and that in advanced settings you have Use hardware acceleration when available checked thumb.gif

No dice unfortunately. Chrome with hardware acceleration enabled yields the same results.
post #18483 of 25969
Quote:
Originally Posted by McLaren_F1 View Post

@lawson67, What color profile do you use for 110Hz? same as 120Hz?
Quote:
Originally Posted by lawson67 View Post

To be honest with you yes i do however i could make a 110hz profile as i have a colorimeter but my 120hz profile looks just great anyhow and i cant be bothered to make another one for 110hz which wont look much different anyhow lol

I was wondering when you might revert to 110Hz 24/7 wink.gif ... I have done the same, it's the best of both worlds, Desktop work apps --> gaming. I can't tell the difference between 110Hz and 120Hz and it seems only prudent for longevity keeping the pixel clock within spec! Especially after reading the only failures guys are having months down the road are from running flat out @120hz with or without tightened timings. I like my monitor to much and until someone convinces me it's OK to run a 483 pixel clock @120Hz even with my gpu ram properly downclocking ... or until I get some new Maxwells to push 120fps all the time ... I'll pass for now wink.gif

I also use your 120Hz/200cdm profile @110Hz ... it looks great "for me" (no perceptible difference from 120Hz) even contrary to Yaz's thoughts earlier on 200cdm. I'm not trying to achieve "perfect color" for professional work on this rig. wink.gif

EDIT: For fast twitch FPS I will set 120Hz in game when available ... and in most instances I now back my desktop overclock down to 96Hz for convenience and movie playback biggrin.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by fredocini View Post

Hi lawson, i tried these timings before for 120hz but they didn't work. fortunately though, they were fantastic for 110hz. only problem for me is that my gpu doesn't downclock when i have 110hz as a setting. i have a gtx 780 ti. would you happen to know the remedy for that?

EDIT: Oh, and how does changing the "pixel count" and timings affect how many pixels are on your screen? is there a difference in image quality as well?

Quote:
Originally Posted by lawson67 View Post


Ok so now i want you to try theses timings below which should allow your cards memory clock to down clock on the desktop at 110hz...The lower vertical blanking values that you use does not allow enough time to change the memory clock without corrupting the screen and this is why your memory can not down clock as it is right now!...However those timings lower the pixel clock at 120hz much closer to the 450mhz limit at 120hz and will give a very strong signal which will enable some that can not hit 120hz to indeed hit it!....But 5 lines of vertical blanking (1445 total) doesn't give enough time to change the memory clock without corrupting the screen...but most will be happy to change to 60hz or even 110hz on the desktop if those are the only timings that will allow them to hit 120hz.

Ok use these 110hz timings BELOW and transfer them to NVCP...Yes i know you can not find back porch and blanking in NVCP however they will set themselves automatically when you transfer front porch and sync width and set the totals in NVCP!....These timings will allow you to hit 110hz and allow your cards memory clock to down clock on the desktop


I don't know if fredocini with achieve the normal gpu ram downclocking with those timings. It will be interesting to see, but I doubt it, as every time I varied the Nvidia CP timings for 110Hz or 120Hz my ram wouldn't downclock @ the desktop properly.

In the screenshot below my gpu ram downclocks normally at the desktop @110Hz with the "standard" timings.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamaican Reaper View Post

A while back i saw something about running Nvidia cards and updating drivers on these monitors....There is currently a new Nvidia driver out and i cnt remember what/what not to do before installing said driver....

If anyone can point me in the right direction i would be grateful,thx in advance....thumb.gif

I believe it is still pretty straight forward for Nvidia ... clean install of the new beta drivers (reboot), then re-install the Full Patch (reboot), go to Nvidia CP reset your custom resolutions (timings?) ... and good to go, you don't have to mess with re-installing the Qnix monitor driver.

Note: Can't confirm yet, wether you even need the full patch for 780 SLI? ...

Toasty's quote ...

If you have a 400/500-series GPU or if you have an SLI setup, you MUST use the full patch to get 110/120 Hz even if you're using the NVIDIA control panel instead of CRU. The Titan and the GTX 780 might not need the full patch for SLI, but I'm not able to verify that myself.


You could also read a very useful post from Toasty ... [HERE]

Edited by TomcatV - 8/4/15 at 2:47pm
 
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post #18484 of 25969
Quote:
Originally Posted by tietherope View Post

I've read that on the X-star you can remove the stand without having to open up the monitor. Maybe someone else can confirm.

Unless something recently changed, you still have to open up the xstar to remove the stand stem. They're literally exactly the same apart from the logo in the centre. I even ordered a qnix and recieved an xstar in the qnix box...
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post #18485 of 25969
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeyBear View Post

Unless something recently changed, you still have to open up the xstar to remove the stand stem. They're literally exactly the same apart from the logo in the centre. I even ordered a qnix and recieved an xstar in the qnix box...

Here's is what I read, three different sites/people. With that many I assumed it was correct.

"If you're going to be mounting the screen, I would recommend the X-star over the Qnix. The two brands are virtually identical except for the fact that the little plastic stub that connects to the base is glued in on the Qnix, whereas you can yank it out with a bit of force on the X-star. If you want to remove the stand from the Qnix, you have to take the monitor apart and unscrew the stub from the inside."

"Let it be known that if you go with the X-Star DP2710 (same exact monitor) the glass stem can be removed by simply pulling on it, instead of having to open up the casing with the Qnix."

"I also removed the plastic stand stub from the bezel by pulling on it firmly (possible with X-star but not QNIX, which must be disassembled) and mounted the screen on a VESA arm."
post #18486 of 25969
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolvaras View Post

No dice unfortunately. Chrome with hardware acceleration enabled yields the same results.

Actually, ingame it actually says it's at 96FPS. So what should I believe?
post #18487 of 25969
Quote:
Originally Posted by tietherope View Post

Here's is what I read, three different sites/people. With that many I assumed it was correct.

"If you're going to be mounting the screen, I would recommend the X-star over the Qnix. The two brands are virtually identical except for the fact that the little plastic stub that connects to the base is glued in on the Qnix, whereas you can yank it out with a bit of force on the X-star. If you want to remove the stand from the Qnix, you have to take the monitor apart and unscrew the stub from the inside."

"Let it be known that if you go with the X-Star DP2710 (same exact monitor) the glass stem can be removed by simply pulling on it, instead of having to open up the casing with the Qnix."

"I also removed the plastic stand stub from the bezel by pulling on it firmly (possible with X-star but not QNIX, which must be disassembled) and mounted the screen on a VESA arm."

Hmm, I opened up both of mine as they're on monitor arms now. They were both screwed in for me. Again, I bought these around December last year so it may have changed, haven't looked into anything like this since I made the purchase. If they were glued they wouldn't be able to tilt, I think they're all advertised with that feature.
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post #18488 of 25969
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeyBear View Post

Hmm, I opened up both of mine as they're on monitor arms now. They were both screwed in for me. Again, I bought these around December last year so it may have changed, haven't looked into anything like this since I made the purchase. If they were glued they wouldn't be able to tilt, I think they're all advertised with that feature.

Well I'll let everyone know next week when I get mine!
post #18489 of 25969
Quote:
Originally Posted by Commiekaze View Post

From the FAQ
Q: Should I buy an X-star or a Qnix (Any differences? Which one will overclock better?)
A: Short answer: Choose whichever one you want.
Long answer: They have the same screen, (both samsung PLS), and look almost identical other than their logo. Neither one has been proven to be clearly better, at this time. The general consensus is believed that they have the same random OC-ability.

Below are unboxing posts, gives a good view of both.

https://teksyndicate.com/forum/other-hardware/korean-1440p-monitor-x-star-dp2710-received-mine-today-take-look/147948

http://forums.hardwarezone.com.sg/monitor-channel-218/my-new-qnix-qx2710-evolution-ii-27-matte-pls-monitor-4200102.html


i understand the panel is the same but is the stand, frame aswell?
post #18490 of 25969
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blutch View Post

i understand the panel is the same but is the stand, frame aswell?

Yes, exactly the same.
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