Overclock.net › Forums › Components › Monitors and Displays › [Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 1851

post #18501 of 25893
Just ordered my QNIX QX2710

Very excited. Went with the Tempered Glass version. (Wanted glossy but couldn't find any for sale)

Didn't go with a perfect pixel model because none were available in tempered glass/glossy.

Ordered a 28AWG cable (http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DVI-D-Ferrites/dp/B007NJ3WI8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1400213702&sr=8-2&keywords=dvi-d+dual+link)

Here is the link for the TV I purchased....eBay seller green-sum

Here is the link for my actual purchase....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121089977041?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649


Also added a 3 year square trade warranty for $41 just to be safe. Total was about $342 with free expedited shipping included. (Still doesn't appear to be shipped though and I ordered 24 hrs ago)

Very excited, but never really had a high quality monitor. On an Acer G Series 24" 1080p right now.

Is overclocking monitors hard? I'm really not one to enjoy sitting there testing one thing after another. Would love to just dial in a safe overclock speed (maybe 96hz) and go with it.


Any suggestions/tips/heads up welcome. I've been reading through this thread and others trying to learn as much as I can but it's hard to cover an 1800 page thread. thumb.gif
post #18502 of 25893
That's great, but you run a high chance of being extremely disappointed with the tempered glass version.
post #18503 of 25893
Hey guys just received my X star from dream seller. I shipped it to Ferndale and drove it across the border to BC, paid absolutely no duties doing that so im happy i paid only $289. Monitor looks great and have absolutely no dead pixel. Ive also overclocked it to 120hz but i think its too good to be true, i went to the frame skip website waited until it said valid and it said 120fps 120hz, then i pulled out my samsung s4 and took a picture using the camera and it snapped a picture with a solid bar, do i need to change any settings on my s4 or is my monitor actually doing 120hz? im saying its too good to be true because i have horrible luck and im surprised i actually got a 120hz monitor with no dead pixels and with very little back light bleed in the bottom right and top right corner.

Second question is how do i use color sustainer? after i reboot my computer i open color sustainer and click on "generic pnp" then 2560x1440 resolution then 2560x1440x32@120hz i then checkmark the associate buttton and click on browse and navigate to lawson color profile "Native dispcal 120hz 200cdm.icm and hit the associate button and the associate button font turns green. im assuming the color profile has changed and kicked in at this point, what happens when i reboot my computer do i have to go into color sustainer and do it again? because the associate button is not there anymore after i reboot, but the associate checkmark is there so im assuming i did it right....(please see screen shot below showing associate button not there after reboot)

Third questions i set preset in CCC(i have a r9 290x). I did this by opening CCC then clicking on desktop management and then changed refresh rate to 60hz hit apply and then went to preset and then add preset. then i went back to Desktop management and changed it to 120hz then apply and and then add preset, now i have to preset which i can double click on to change between the two am i correct? is there anyway to test if im getting 120 vs 60hz

Now once i switch from 120hz preset to 60hz preset to i need to change the color profile thing ins color sustainer again?

Ive added a few screen shots please let me know if everything is ok

is this setting ok for 120hz? http://imgur.com/yMvyD5R

Here is a screenshot of the associate button not being there after i reboot, does that mean the color profile is automatically selected?- http://i.imgur.com/0ujmbwt.jpg

Very last question i have is, am i using the right color profile its labelled Native dispcal 120hz 200cdm.icm i believe from "lawson", people on the forums have mentioned a certain number of brightness clicks but i couldnt find how many times to hit the brightness+ button from an absolute dim to get the best question.

Sorry for all the questions its just the original post has not been updated and any googling i find i keep coming across outdated programs and patches and methods being used

Oh very last question do i need a driver for my monitor if i have a r9 290x or is that only needed for nvidia(keep in mind i have a r9 290x) and im mostly going to be playing battlefield 4 do i still need the color profile set and CCC set to 120hz? or do i need to just select 2560x1440 120hz in video settings of the game and not change between 60 and 120hz in CCC

Thanks alot you guys sorry for all the questions and hopefully this helps out any other absolute noobs like me!
Edited by blitzed604 - 5/15/14 at 10:06pm
Gaming
(7 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 4770K Gigabyte G1 Sniper Z87 R9 290X 8GB 1866mhz 
Hard DriveOSMonitor
120 GB SSD Windows 8.1 Qnix 2710 @ 110hz 
  hide details  
Reply
Gaming
(7 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 4770K Gigabyte G1 Sniper Z87 R9 290X 8GB 1866mhz 
Hard DriveOSMonitor
120 GB SSD Windows 8.1 Qnix 2710 @ 110hz 
  hide details  
Reply
post #18504 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ascii Aficionado View Post

That's great, but you run a high chance of being extremely disappointed with the tempered glass version.

Oh no. Why? I just want something very vivid and bright. Room is dark so sunlight is not a concern. Currently have a matte monitor and can't stand that "dead" look it has. I want bright, vivid colors.
post #18505 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenwileyrn View Post

Oh no. Why? I just want something very vivid and bright. Room is dark so sunlight is not a concern. Currently have a matte monitor and can't stand that "dead" look it has. I want bright, vivid colors.

The tempered glass ones apparently have a very high chance of having dust trapped between the the glass and actual screen.

I do know the matte filter on the Qnix' is light, but it's your choice, I wouldn't critique it, just informing you about the tempered glass issue.

And your current display appearing "dead" might just be that matte coating and panel tech/model too, just saying.
post #18506 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ascii Aficionado View Post

The tempered glass ones apparently have a very high chance of having dust trapped between the the glass and actual screen.

I do know the matte filter on the Qnix' is light, but it's your choice, I wouldn't critique it, just informing you about the tempered glass issue.

And your current display appearing "dead" might just be that matte coating and panel tech/model too, just saying.

I bought the tempered glass version too, and despite what everyone is saying about blacks looking grey, and dust under the glass, I'm not experiencing any of these problems. In fact, blacks look black and whites look white. It's awesome for me, can understand if it's not for others. Also, if you don't like it I hear you can just remove the glass and it's a glossy underneath! I need to take mine on a long trip soon, hence getting the tempered glass version... Now I'm not planning on taking the glass off.
post #18507 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pistol Petah View Post

Pretty weird issue here, following a windows update my 120hz overclock keeps reverting back to 60hz. Every time I try to set it back 120, it goes back to 60 only after about 10 seconds. I have had no issues with the over clock before and I have had the monitor for a long while now so I don't really know what could be causing it to do this. I have tried repatching the driver and redoing the overclock but the issue persists any ideas?

Mine was doing that for a while too (although it has stopped now for some reason) but the way I solved it was to set the 120Hz setting and apply, and then set 60Hz and apply, and then when it reverts it'll revert to 120Hz.
post #18508 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ascii Aficionado View Post

The tempered glass ones apparently have a very high chance of having dust trapped between the the glass and actual screen.

I do know the matte filter on the Qnix' is light, but it's your choice, I wouldn't critique it, just informing you about the tempered glass issue.

And your current display appearing "dead" might just be that matte coating and panel tech/model too, just saying.

I see. Well considering my current monitor is a cheap Acer you're probably right. I'm not afraid of any glare or lighting though because I can always add dark curtains for that.

Dirt behind the glass would obviously be a huge issue.


So if I don't like the tempered glass I can remove it and it's a glossy? If true, nice!
post #18509 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeytommo View Post

I bought the tempered glass version too, and despite what everyone is saying about blacks looking grey, and dust under the glass, I'm not experiencing any of these problems. In fact, blacks look black and whites look white. It's awesome for me, can understand if it's not for others. Also, if you don't like it I hear you can just remove the glass and it's a glossy underneath! I need to take mine on a long trip soon, hence getting the tempered glass version... Now I'm not planning on taking the glass off.

Some people get lucky, other's don't.

I can't comment about removing the glass as I haven't paid that much attention to people commenting about the tempered version, although I'm sure I've read in a few places that the glass is actually attached to the screen. I could be thinking of another model, but I might not be, so I'm just putting that out there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by stephenwileyrn View Post

I see. Well considering my current monitor is a cheap Acer you're probably right. I'm not afraid of any glare or lighting though because I can always add dark curtains for that.

Dirt behind the glass would obviously be a huge issue.


So if I don't like the tempered glass I can remove it and it's a glossy? If true, nice!

As I said above I actually don't know, I know I remember people talking about a tempered glass panel where the glass is actually attached to the screen, but it could be another model, I haven't paid much attention to anything that isn't matte, but just in case I'm putting it out there.

Other people should eventually comment and confirm if you can remove it or not.
post #18510 of 25893
Quote:
Originally Posted by lawson67 View Post

Sorry to here you are still getting scan lines at such low refresh rate as 80hz!....Have you tried using the patch?....Also I would be inclined to try another duel link cable or even try another DVI-D port on my GPU if you have one and check that the cable is tight and secured properly as i have never known one of this monitors to not be able to hit 80hz.....Most if not all of theses monitors can hit at least 96hz!.... i believe you may have another problem going on.
Well i am glad they helped you hit 110hz it sounds that your monitor may not be capable of hitting 120hz!....Not all can!...Some have managed to hit 120hz by changing cables... Higher quality cables have helped in some cases but is never a guarantee...Also a simple DVI-D port change on the GPU has enabled people to hit 120hz!...However 110hz is more than fine i run 110hz 24/7 even though my monitor is more than capable of hitting 120hz so i would be happy with 110hz and stick with it!

Ok so now i want you to try theses timings below which should allow your cards memory clock to down clock on the desktop at 110hz...The lower vertical blanking values that you use does not allow enough time to change the memory clock without corrupting the screen and this is why your memory can not down clock as it is right now!...However those timings lower the pixel clock at 120hz much closer to the 450mhz limit at 120hz and will give a very strong signal which will enable some that can not hit 120hz to indeed hit it!....But 5 lines of vertical blanking (1445 total) doesn't give enough time to change the memory clock without corrupting the screen...but most will be happy to change to 60hz or even 110hz on the desktop if those are the only timings that will allow them to hit 120hz.

Ok use these 110hz timings BELOW and transfer them to NVCP...Yes i know you can not find back porch and blanking in NVCP however they will set themselves automatically when you transfer front porch and sync width and set the totals in NVCP!....These timings will allow you to hit 110hz and allow your cards memory clock to down clock on the desktop


It may be the fact that you are using duel monitors in that case jump over to toastyx forum and explane your problems to him and i am sure he will help you thumb.gif

thank you so much for your response lawson! this works perfectly. will it be safe to run this setting 24/7? and will it affect any sort of image quality?
BAU5
(18 items)
 
   
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i7-4870HQ Logic Board NVIDIA GeForce GT 750M 16 GB RAM 
Hard DriveOSMonitor
512GB PCI-E SSD OSX 10.9 Mavericks Retina Display 
  hide details  
Reply
BAU5
(18 items)
 
   
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i7-4870HQ Logic Board NVIDIA GeForce GT 750M 16 GB RAM 
Hard DriveOSMonitor
512GB PCI-E SSD OSX 10.9 Mavericks Retina Display 
  hide details  
Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Monitors and Displays
Overclock.net › Forums › Components › Monitors and Displays › [Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club