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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 212

post #2111 of 20612
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paps.pt View Post

exactly. I find 96hz the best compromise, even though I can do 120hz with stock cable. Too muc h dim for my taste and 96hz is smooth enough. Who agrees with me?

I don't. For gaming run the highest refresh rate you can if you truly want smooth gameplay. The problem with these panels is that it can cause some image retention, motion blur aka ghosting.
If it becomes dim then I suggest you don't use the ICC profiles on the first page and buy a spyder 4 as every single panel will have variations.
post #2112 of 20612
If the monitor's refresh rate isn't a multiple of the video framerate then the video player will alternately drop and insert frames to keep in sync, or else it will tear the video (just like gaming with vsync off). Probably it will drop/insert frames but it depends on the software.

Regardless of what the monitor reports to the OS, the panel spec goes up to 75Hz. If you really care about this, the thing to do is probably to set it to 72Hz before watching a 24FPS movie. This should give you high-quality color and brightness without any worry about framerate mismatch. Or, if you don't notice this particular artifact, then just don't worry about it.


I'm looking into making a Lightboost-style backlight mod for this monitor, but I'd like to request some help with research to see what results people are getting with overclocks. Essentially, for this to work, it's important that the panel be able to handle a very long blanking interval, and to do it without getting super dim. This mod would yield something in the 85-96Hz range but with 120Hz pixel clock. The extra clock would be used for a large blanking interval, during which the backlight would illuminate. This would make motion much less blurry, although it still wouldn't be as good as the TN Lightboost monitors, due to the panel simply being slower. There would be a three-way tradeoff between flicker, blur, and refresh rate.

Here's what I would like, if possible:
1) Fire up Toasty CRU or whatever you use for custom timings.
2) Set to 90Hz. Keep the 1440 vertical resolution, but slowly increase the total vertical rows. Depending on your tool, this is either the "back porch," "blanking interval," or the "total lines" or "total rows."
3) Increase the vertical rows or back porch by 75-100 at a time. If you're setting total lines, increase up until about 1900-1950 total lines. If you're setting the blanking interval or back porch, you want about 500. Either of these are roughly the same pixel clock as normal blanking @120Hz.
4) Report if the monitor freaks out, if you get the same brightness/color shift that normally happens in the 120Hz range or if the color quality stayed good, how high of a vertical row setting you reached, what your top normal overclock is, and whether you have a QNIX or X-Star monitor.
5) If your monitor freaks out, it's unlikely it will be damaged, but you might need to reboot to safe mode or have a second connected monitor to reset your settings.

Anyone who is willing to do this test, please feel free to just send me the results in a PM, unless your results are really interesting! No need to clutter up the thread.
Edited by fluffysheap - 5/28/13 at 1:32am
post #2113 of 20612
Quote:
Originally Posted by fluffysheap View Post

If the monitor's refresh rate isn't a multiple of the video framerate then the video player will alternately drop and insert frames to keep in sync, or else it will tear the video (just like gaming with vsync off). Probably it will drop/insert frames but it depends on the software.

Regardless of what the monitor reports to the OS, the panel spec goes up to 75Hz. If you really care about this, the thing to do is probably to set it to 72Hz before watching a 24FPS movie. This should give you high-quality color and brightness without any worry about framerate mismatch. Or, if you don't notice this particular artifact, then just don't worry about it.


I'm looking into making a Lightboost-style backlight mod for this monitor, but I'd like to request someone to do some research for me. Essentially, for this to work, it's important that the panel be able to handle a very long blanking interval, and to do it without getting super dim. This mod would yield something in the 85-96Hz range but with 120Hz pixel clock. This would make motion much less blurry, although it still wouldn't be as good as the TN Lightboost monitors, due to the panel simply being slower. There would be a three-way tradeoff between flicker, blur, and refresh rate.

Here's what I would like, if possible:
1) Fire up Toasty CRU or whatever you use for custom timings.
2) Set to 96Hz. Keep the 1440 vertical resolution, but slowly increase the vertical rows.
3) Increase the vertical rows by 75-100 at a time, up until 1800-1850 (which is the same pixel clock as 1440@at 120Hz).
4) Report if the monitor freaks out, if you get the same brightness/color shift that normally happens in the 120Hz range or if the color quality stayed good, how high of a vertical row setting you reached, and what your top normal overclock is, and whether you have a QNIX or X-Star monitor.

Anyone who is willing to do this test, please feel free to just send me the results in a PM, unless your results are really interesting! No need to clutter up the thread.
Will this light boost mod work for AMD cards?
 
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post #2114 of 20612
 
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post #2115 of 20612
Quote:
Originally Posted by OneGun View Post

The one that is $317 us is the one everyone has been buying lately..Me included..

Thanks! I'm gonna wait till tomorrow. Not 100% sure yet about the matte vs glossy smile.gif
post #2116 of 20612
It doesn't exist, but if I do it, it will work with any card. AMD users will still have to unlock the pixel clock.
post #2117 of 20612
Quote:
Originally Posted by majnu View Post

I don't. For gaming run the highest refresh rate you can if you truly want smooth gameplay. The problem with these panels is that it can cause some image retention, motion blur aka ghosting.
If it becomes dim then I suggest you don't use the ICC profiles on the first page and buy a spyder 4 as every single panel will have variations.

Do you have graphic card power to show 120 frames per second in most current games at 1400p? I know I dont

Quote:
Originally Posted by fluffysheap View Post

If the monitor's refresh rate isn't a multiple of the video framerate then the video player will alternately drop and insert frames to keep in sync, or else it will tear the video (just like gaming with vsync off). Probably it will drop/insert frames but it depends on the software.

Regardless of what the monitor reports to the OS, the panel spec goes up to 75Hz. If you really care about this, the thing to do is probably to set it to 72Hz before watching a 24FPS movie. This should give you high-quality color and brightness without any worry about framerate mismatch. Or, if you don't notice this particular artifact, then just don't worry about it.


I'm looking into making a Lightboost-style backlight mod for this monitor, but I'd like to request some help with research to see what results people are getting with overclocks. Essentially, for this to work, it's important that the panel be able to handle a very long blanking interval, and to do it without getting super dim. This mod would yield something in the 85-96Hz range but with 120Hz pixel clock. The extra clock would be used for a large blanking interval, during which the backlight would illuminate. This would make motion much less blurry, although it still wouldn't be as good as the TN Lightboost monitors, due to the panel simply being slower. There would be a three-way tradeoff between flicker, blur, and refresh rate.

Here's what I would like, if possible:
1) Fire up Toasty CRU or whatever you use for custom timings.
2) Set to 90Hz. Keep the 1440 vertical resolution, but slowly increase the total vertical rows. Depending on your tool, this is either the "back porch," "blanking interval," or the "total lines" or "total rows."
3) Increase the vertical rows or back porch by 75-100 at a time. If you're setting total lines, increase up until about 1900-1950 total lines. If you're setting the blanking interval or back porch, you want about 500. Either of these are roughly the same pixel clock as normal blanking @120Hz.
4) Report if the monitor freaks out, if you get the same brightness/color shift that normally happens in the 120Hz range or if the color quality stayed good, how high of a vertical row setting you reached, what your top normal overclock is, and whether you have a QNIX or X-Star monitor.
5) If your monitor freaks out, it's unlikely it will be damaged, but you might need to reboot to safe mode or have a second connected monitor to reset your settings.

Anyone who is willing to do this test, please feel free to just send me the results in a PM, unless your results are really interesting! No need to clutter up the thread.

Have you done it in yours?
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Vertex 3 120Gb Western Digital Caviar Green HDD 500Gb 2x Samsung HDD 250Gb in Raid 0 Samsung DVD Burner 
CoolingOSMonitorMonitor
Watercooled (Asetek 760GC and 740GF) Windows 7 64bits Ultimate Qnix QX2710 1440p @96Hz Benq W700 3D Vision 720p Projector 
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post #2118 of 20612
Quote:
Originally Posted by Paps.pt View Post

Have you done it in yours?
As far as I know, it's still in Korea, but I will (and post the results) when it gets here.
post #2119 of 20612
Ok i changed my BF3 settings to high instead of ultra and i ran it at 120hz..There is a noticeable difference in my opinion..As it took me a second to adjust my aim cause the mouse movement was so much smoother..I was going past my target as at 60hz or even 96hz the mouse is a lil more sluggish..Anyways the lowest my Frames got to was 110..Time to OC my card so i can run ultra at 120hz..

And the brightness did not really bother me that much...thumbsupsmiley.png
 
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CoolingOSMonitorMonitor
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CM Storm TK Cherry Blue Mech Corsair AX850 CM storm stryker full tower Razer left handed death adder 3600 
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CoolingOSMonitorMonitor
Corsair H100i Win 7 home premium 64bit QNIX QX2710 OCed to 120hz Asus VE278H 27 inch 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
CM Storm TK Cherry Blue Mech Corsair AX850 CM storm stryker full tower Razer left handed death adder 3600 
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post #2120 of 20612
Quote:
Originally Posted by OneGun View Post

Ok i changed my BF3 settings to high instead of ultra and i ran it at 120hz..There is a noticeable difference in my opinion..As it took me a second to adjust my aim cause the mouse movement was so much smoother..I was going past my target as at 60hz or even 96hz the mouse is a lil more sluggish..Anyways the lowest my Frames got to was 110..Time to OC my card so i can run ultra at 120hz..

And the brightness did not really bother me that much...thumbsupsmiley.png

Nice. I will try it also, then. Which color profile you find best for 120Hz? Thanks for the input thumb.gif
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i5 2500K @4.3Gz ASUS P8Z68-v Pro two GTX670 in SLI 8Gb DDR3 1600mhz 
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Vertex 3 120Gb Western Digital Caviar Green HDD 500Gb 2x Samsung HDD 250Gb in Raid 0 Samsung DVD Burner 
CoolingOSMonitorMonitor
Watercooled (Asetek 760GC and 740GF) Windows 7 64bits Ultimate Qnix QX2710 1440p @96Hz Benq W700 3D Vision 720p Projector 
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Genius Corsair TX750 Coolermaster Scout a4tech X7 gaming mouse 
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Ozone Asus Xonar DX 3D Vision Kit 
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My System
(19 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 2500K @4.3Gz ASUS P8Z68-v Pro two GTX670 in SLI 8Gb DDR3 1600mhz 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOptical Drive
Vertex 3 120Gb Western Digital Caviar Green HDD 500Gb 2x Samsung HDD 250Gb in Raid 0 Samsung DVD Burner 
CoolingOSMonitorMonitor
Watercooled (Asetek 760GC and 740GF) Windows 7 64bits Ultimate Qnix QX2710 1440p @96Hz Benq W700 3D Vision 720p Projector 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Genius Corsair TX750 Coolermaster Scout a4tech X7 gaming mouse 
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Ozone Asus Xonar DX 3D Vision Kit 
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