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[Official] The Qnix/X-Star 1440p Monitor Club - Page 2469

post #24681 of 25887
Ordered QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II 27" QHD Samsung PLS Matte Panel PC Monitor and received yesterday.

Think it might be a defect but there are two faint black lines on the left side. Tested in games and it is noticible. Is this a known thing? Also is this something that can be fixed or should I return.
Thanks ahead of time for any feedback. Picture included.
Edit: Seems that even though the overclock was successful at 120hz, when I switch back to 60hz the black lines go away. Does this mean it is not overclockable?

Could be screen burn in, what was on your screen previously? did it sit at the same page or desktop for a while?

Thank you for your responses. smile.gif After messing around today I realized that when I turned off my overclock, and reverted back to 60hz the bars went away. Strangely it was an otherwise successful 120hz overclock which I verified a couple different ways. I might see if I can still overclock at a lower value without getting the black lines but I suppose worst case I just go without the overclock seeing as how I didn't seem to get any dead pixels with this panel.

In answer to second question, I was running minecraft previously when I noticed, but nothing more than 10 minutes. Purchased from newegg.com.
post #24682 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chomsky View Post

Ordered QNIX QX2710 LED Evolution II 27" QHD Samsung PLS Matte Panel PC Monitor and received yesterday.

Think it might be a defect but there are two faint black lines on the left side. Tested in games and it is noticible. Is this a known thing? Also is this something that can be fixed or should I return.
Thanks ahead of time for any feedback. Picture included.
Edit: Seems that even though the overclock was successful at 120hz, when I switch back to 60hz the black lines go away. Does this mean it is not overclockable?

Could be screen burn in, what was on your screen previously? did it sit at the same page or desktop for a while?

Thank you for your responses. smile.gif After messing around today I realized that when I turned off my overclock, and reverted back to 60hz the bars went away. Strangely it was an otherwise successful 120hz overclock which I verified a couple different ways. I might see if I can still overclock at a lower value without getting the black lines but I suppose worst case I just go without the overclock seeing as how I didn't seem to get any dead pixels with this panel.

In answer to second question, I was running minecraft previously when I noticed, but nothing more than 10 minutes. Purchased from newegg.com.



No dead pixels? Set the refresh at 96Hz and you should be fine.
Edited by BulletSponge - 1/28/16 at 6:57am
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post #24683 of 25887
So my QX2710 I bought in 2013 randomly stopped working, at first I thought I had lost yet another power supply - as the screen seemed to be struggling to stay on, and the blue led kept flickering, as well as the whole screen, which also went a bit jumbled. I didn't really take too much notice of /what/ it was doing. But upon removing power, and trying another power supply it won't show anything on screen.

I've since tried multiple cables to multiple computers and multiple power supplies.

I can get the screen to be recognised once, even without power plugged into monitor. and i can sometimes get the backlight to show, and have the screen have the blue light stay on - but other times it will just flash blue. The power button works normally shifting it between "off" and "trying to be on".

The DVI socket seems a bit loose compared to what DVI on other devices seems like - most of my plugs are very tight on other things but I don't seem to be able to do anything different with it.

I should be getting a colorimeter tomorrow and I really wanted to compare monitors, as I just got another QX2710 that doesn't seem to look as good. At the moment I have it swapped out for a Shiman QH270-Lite which has wonderful lack of backlight bleed, but is glossy rather than matte, and doesn't look as nice.

But now I'm wondering if I can fix this monitor, and whether I should even consider getting another one if they can't even last 3 years. (it had also lost power supplies in that time)

I can't see much around in replacement PCB's which may fix it. And I had no response when I tried contacting the seller (green-sum) about replacement power supplies.

I know other people seem to be able to trigger test patterns on these monitors easily, but I haven't been able to. I did once manage to get a full red and then a full green showing, so I suspect that means that the panel is still working. (although I've only managed that once!) I also tried putting brightness down and up which seems to change what the backlight does show.
post #24684 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by caenlen View Post

+rep thanks mate. I did 100hz instead 96, and everything is solid. thumb.gif

Glad it worked out. Also another tip, it is best to set the refresh rate in multiples of 24hz(hence 96hz) because most media content is played at that rate and adding intermediate frames in between would fit perfectly. Not sure about Netflix but I think it is 24fps(doubtfully 30fps) so 96hz would play smoother than 100hz ideally in that case.
post #24685 of 25887
hey all, I just recently bought a QX2710 with a Samsung Panel and I'm more than happy with it. So much so that I ordered another one. Sadly, this time didn't pay attention to the panel and now I got an AUO M270DAN01.1. It's in the QNIX with multi input. Now, this isn't bad by default, since I'm not a gamer and am not keen on overclocking.
But, I have a problem in which this new panel has some weird quirks in displaying the full resolution. Now, windows tells me that its full UDH, but since I have the other one right next to it. It just does not look the same. The whole UI is bigger and it looks like 1080p. When I drag windows from one to the other, they get bigger/smaller depending on the direction.
Both monitors are connected via custom bought Dual DVI cables via my r9 280x from Asus with 2xDVI outputs. I've tried a variety of different connection constellations, for example I've tried both dvi outputs with both panels. The Samsung always displays everything normally. Thus I concluded that both outputs on my GPU have to be dual dvi. It's always the same. My Samsung Panel displays everything the correct way and the new one just defaults to 1080p. Even when I just connect the new one.
One thing that makes it additionally weird is that my wallpaper is displayed in the correct size on the AUO, just as the Samsung one. But the window and icon sizes are all as big as on 1080p. The colors are also off in the AUO.

Also, my GPU driver tells me that my AUO panel screen is connected via DVI rather than the Samsung Panel which is connected as DUAL DVI. Both of them should be displayed as DUAL. I'm so confused.

Edit: When I go to http://www.whatismyscreenresolution.com/ it tells me I have a 2048 x 1152 resolution O.O


What can I try to make it better? Am I having a defective model?
Edited by SNooZy - 1/28/16 at 9:48am
post #24686 of 25887
Hello! is good the qnix qx2710 true 10 without dp? from Korea to italy what it might cost to Customs?
post #24687 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacoblab View Post

Just an update, the monitor is not overclocked at all. I ordered a new power cord + brick when you guys recommended it, and it just arrived today. I plugged it all in, and about 5 minutes after plugging it in, the screen went black once again. So I guess it has to be something wrong with the monitor frown.gif
Is my only option at this point to order a new monitor?

Looks like I spoke prematurely. The exact same thing just started happening to me. I ordered a new power brick, should be here on Monday. Going to test and find out.

It was really weird. My cell phone rang next to my monitor and at the exact same moment the screen went black and I couldn't get it to come back on except for half a second when I unplugged the 2.1mm connection on the back of the monitor and plugged it back in. So that tells me it is most likely a powerbrick issue. I ordered a good power brick that is UL certified, so hopefully that resolves the issue, I'd hate to have to order a new monitor.
post #24688 of 25887
Is it just better to get a HDMI 2.0 to DVI-D cord? Instead of a Displayport to DVI-D adaptor?

I'm looking into the 980/Ti/Titan-X card but they are lacking a DVI-D outlet.
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post #24689 of 25887
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atomagenesis View Post

Looks like I spoke prematurely. The exact same thing just started happening to me. I ordered a new power brick, should be here on Monday. Going to test and find out.

It was really weird. My cell phone rang next to my monitor and at the exact same moment the screen went black and I couldn't get it to come back on except for half a second when I unplugged the 2.1mm connection on the back of the monitor and plugged it back in. So that tells me it is most likely a powerbrick issue. I ordered a good power brick that is UL certified, so hopefully that resolves the issue, I'd hate to have to order a new monitor.
Yeah it sounds like we have the same problem. Let me know what happens when you get your new power brick!
post #24690 of 25887
Turns out my 7990 just gave up the ghost. The monitor is working fine. But I'm still going to use that new powerbrick anyway I think, it's better than the one they sent anyway.
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